My Nikon Infrared Wireless Remote Control is a simple remote controller with the receiver built into the camera using the ML-L3 trigger that costs only $17.95 (US street price). Unfortunately, it’s line of sight and narrow infrared beam are overly restrictive, i.e. trying to discreetly point the trigger at the camera IR sensor in group and holiday family pictures or pointing at the tiny front/rear IR sensor when at odd angles to the camera, etc. and a very short line of sight range (approximately 16 feet or some 5 meters), is likely to make you miss that precious shot.
The Nikon wireless (radio frequency) WR-R10/T10 combination remote control is a WHOPPING $162.90 (US street price - Suggested retail price for the kit with WR-A10 adapter was $277.96 USD) but I was willing to give it a chance. The WR-R10 is a Transceiver and the WR-T10 is a Transmitter trigger similar to the ML-L3. Build quality is also similar to the ML-L3 - it is solidly built and looks like it will last a long time and it is made in Japan. Hopefully, the button spring is of high quality and will last a long time too. The supplied owner’s manual is a horrible large piece of thin paper folded into numerous little squares in 7 different languages, and is a pain to use without a large and powerful loupe.
A CR2032 3V Lithium Battery (included) is required for the WR-T10 remote trigger and is expected to last for approximately 10,000 releases, the WR-R10 gets power from the camera’s battery. The WR-R10 Transceiver plugs directly into the accessory terminal on my D7200 but does not fit with a regular one piece L-Bracket mounted.
However, with my 2-piece Kirk L-Bracket installed, if the side “L” bracket piece is removed it works fine with the camera bottom plate section installed, without any interference.
It also works just fine using a ball head in portrait orientation if you use the ball head portrait slot/grove. When you insert the WR-R10 into your camera and switch the camera's power ON a green LED light will blink quickly several times while it initiates (this only takes a few seconds), when completed the same LED will begin to blink once every 2-seconds for as long as the camera is turned on. The blinking green LED tells you it is working, but it can be distracting.
The WR-R10 does extend from the camera about 1-inch so be careful not to hit it on anything because it looks like it could be easily damaged. Included for free is the WR-R10 Strap that is supposed to attach the WR-R10 to your camera strap when not being used, but would allow it to freely dangle and possibly be exposed to damage –I find it better to store it in a camera bag or shirt pocket.
There are three different radio frequencies to prevent any interference from other photographers using one, atomic (auto-setting) clocks, wireless on/off light triggers, etc. CH15 = 2.475GHz, CH10 = 2.450GHz, CH5 = 2.425GHz. It comes paired (synchronized) to channel 15. If changing frequencies the WR-R10 and WR-T10 must be frequency paired (synchronized), this is quickly done requiring only a few seconds and is easy to do.
The WR-T10 remote trigger has an Fn button that can remotely control whatever function is assigned to the Fn button on your camera, IF you are using D4 and/or D800 Series cameras (Pro bodies).
If using a Nikon camera that has the 10-pin remote terminal (e.g. D810) you need to buy the WR-A10 Adapter ($59.00 US street price) or, for a better deal purchase the WR-R10/WR-T10/WR-A10 Wireless Remote Adapter Set that includes all three pieces (street price $179.99). For the advanced amateurs and professionals out there, when using a camera with the WR-A10 adapter you can control up to 64 devices!!!
The WR-T10 trigger works just like your shutter button – press half-way down to focus, and continue to press all the way down to activate the shutter. A red LED light blinks while it is focusing and then stops blinking and is continuously on when you activate the shutter, release the button and the LED light goes off.
ALL of the camera’s “Shutter Release Modes”, e.g. S (Single), Cl (Continuous Low speed), Ch (Continuous High speed), Q (Quiet), Self-timer, Mup (Mirror Lock-Up) are supported by the WR-R10/T10. If you require a flash, either the camera’s built-in flash or any Nikon Speedlight will work in the normal manner.
Line of sight (daylight, no obstructions, sunny, windy)
- Straight at camera: 90 feet+ (30m+)
- 90-degrees from camera: 90 feet (30m)
Triggered from behind body (same conditions as above)
- Straight at camera: 30 feet (10m)
- 90-degrees from camera: 25 feet (8m)
- Through 2 walls: approximately 45 feet (15m)
- Through double pane picture window to camera outside: 90 feet+ (30m+) (to make pictures of birds at the feeder with a tripod, etc.)
If you want to stay with Nikon and want a Radio frequency remote controller the WR-R10/T10 is the only option available, even when the $162.90 price may be hard to swallow.
There are Radio transmitters and triggers sold by third party manufacturers for a LOT less. However, my research of popular less expensive third party controllers shows there have been failures and be inconsistencies with most other brands when it comes to quality, compatibility, and longevity.
I don't have personal experience using third party wireless remotes but before purchasing the Nikon WR-R10/T10 Radio Wireless Controller I scoured websites like B&H and Amazon, etc. reading verified purchasers comments about their experience. Third party wireless remotes had enough problems - -such as LED lights not working and failure to send a radio signal when the button is pushed after a short period of use- for me to take any chance with them. My conclusion is that the WR-R10/T10 is worth the price.
Even though I recently bought my WR-R10/T10 it still had firmware version 1.00 installed. Version 2.00 was released on 13-MAR-2013 and can be downloaded from Nikon's support website. Information about the update is below. Updating the firmware is done the same as you would with a camera or lens firmware update except the WR-R10 must be inserted into the camera. It is listed as a "W" in the camera's menu for installed firmware versions.
WR-R10 Firmware 2.00 fixes: (from Nikon support website)
- Camera settings can now be viewed and changed using the WR-1 when the WR-1 is used as a transmitter and the WR-R10 is connected to a D7100 for use as a receiver.
- Support for the Release Hold Time function built into the WR-1 is now supported when the WR-1 is used as a transmitter and the WR-R10 is used as a receiver.
- To make remote operation using the WR-1 function that allows for division of multiple units into groups (A, B, C, D) more convenient, the group specified with the WR-R10 is now fixed at group A rather than all groups (A, B, C, D) with transmission. With reception, the group is fixed at group A with firmware versions 1.00 and 2.00.
The following cameras can be used to upgrade WR-R10 firmware: D4S, D4 (*), Df, D810A, D810, D800 (*), D800E (*), D750, D7200, D7100, D5500.
- Only the camera(s) indicated above can be used to upgrade WR-R10 firmware.
* With firmware version 1.10 or later.
Firmware Version 3.00 note from Nikon - see More info on V3.00 at Nikon for complete details including the WARNING on not doing the upgrade for certain cameras:
Customers wishing to upgrade to firmware version 3.00, which offers support for Advanced Wireless Lighting (AWL), can request this service free of charge from a Nikon service facility.
The WR-R10 has as of October 2020 been replaced by the WR-R11a and WR-R11b using firmware V3.00 (whereas you can only upgrade your WR-R10 by yourself to V2.00). These new devices are compatible with a large range of cameras. The WR-T10 remote controller is used for both the WR-R10 and WR-R11.
The LED on my WR-R10 started to blink red, why is that?
Often the red LED can blink and it does not necessarily mean anything is wrong. It can simply be that you are controlling a flash unit and the flash is not powered on, for example.
The WR10 is not just a remote control but is the controller for the SB-5000 flash unit. The flashing red is simply telling you your SB-5000 is not connected (if you have one). As soon as you turn on the SB-5000, the red LED should stop blinking. However, if you leave the WR10 on the camera for remote shutter operation, without using a flash, it's going to be blinking red, always.
Depending on your camera, you may have the option to turn the LED off - that control (if it exists) is in the setup menu (tool symbol) under Wireless Remote Options.
Blinking codes for the red and green status LEDs on the WR-R10 and WR-R11a/b with firmware V3.00 and later, see the WR11a/b manual, page 35 onwards.
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