Auto FP High Speed Sync Explained
Russ MacDonald (Arkayem)
Keywords: nikon, speedlights, lighting, flash
One of the most confusing aspects of the Nikon flash system is this thing called 'Auto FP High Speed Sync'. This article will hopefully clear up the mystery about this mode.
Before you can understand FP High Speed Sync, you first need to understand what FP means and how the Normal Flash Sync works.
FP stands for Focal Plane and it refers to the type of shutter used in most modern DSLR cameras. A focal plane shutter is actually two precisely timed curtains positioned between the lens and the sensor that can either block light from hitting the sensor or allow light to hit the sensor. The reason there are two shutter curtains is to be able to get much higher effective shutter speeds.
It is important to understand that these curtains open and close in exactly the same amount of time. So the shutter speed is set by timing between the start of the first curtain opening and the start of the second curtain closing.
Notice that the entire sensor will be open to the light at every shutter speed up to the speed of the curtain movement itself. This is the maximum normal Flash Sync Speed. To say this in another way; at all speeds up to the maximum normal Flash Sync Speed, the first curtain completely opens before the second curtain begins to close. At any shutter speed higher than this, the second curtain will begin closing before the first curtain gets fully open, thus never exposing the entire sensor at any one time. At really high shutter speeds, this results in very narrow 'slit' of light that travels across the sensor.
These two curtains travel vertically across the opening from the top to the bottom, and this in itself causes some strange effects when using high shutter speeds (small slit). If you shoot something that moves horizontally really fast like a race car from the side, you can sometimes see that the wheels seem to lean forward a bit because the top part of the wheel was exposed after the bottom part and the top moved forward a little bit as the slit moved from bottom to top. Of course, the image is inverted on the focal plane, exposing from the bottom to the top of the image, and that's why race car wheels lean forward even though the shutter moves from top to bottom. Also, this effect only occurs if you don't pan with the car. You can totally eliminate the forward leaning effect by panning.
As mentioned, a focal plane shutter mechanism moves the curtains at a very precise speed. This speed is determined during manufacturing of the mechanism and is governed mostly by how recently the shutter was designed. In older 35mm cameras, this speed was 1/60th second, but with time, shutters got faster and faster, and in the new D300 this speed is 1/320th sec. And those race car wheels lean much further forward with an older 1/60th shutter than with the D300 1/320th shutter.
Once you understand how the shutter works, you can begin to see what needs to be done to synchronize the flash. Depending on the design of the flash, the length of a full power flash will vary. In an SB-800, the maximum flash lasts about 1/1050th sec.
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Vernon Guidry (VAG1) on April 10, 2018
Excellent article. Appreciate your taking the time.
Albert Esschendal (alberte) on August 19, 2013
Russ, When you want to freeze the action, you need more flash power! Like Dave Black explains here with his "Four-Square" or "Eight-Square" setup: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP6a47BQA70 It works! I used a Four Square setup for photographing an indoor Ice Skating event.
User on August 15, 2013
Finally I've got it :) Thanks!
User on August 15, 2013
Yes Jim, that's exactly my question: taking in consideration that the difference between 1/250 and 1/320 is only 1/3 stop, why do we have both options? More, if the shutter curtains in D300 (and D800) are 1/320, why don't we have a top synchronization speed of 1/320 instead of 1/250 at the first place?
Mike Bell (mickeyb48) on August 15, 2013
Thanks for explaining this. Your very good on your communication.
Linwood Ferguson (Ferguson) on August 14, 2013
Nicely done, interesting and ill understood topic.
Stephen Blakesley (lajolla) on August 13, 2013
Very nice article and thanks for reminding everyone that Auto FP High-Speed Sync will work up to the maximum shutter speed of the DSLR cam body (with a compatible external nikon flash like the SB-800 and newer). This same exact feature has been available since the F5/F6 but was available first in the F5 - in only metered-manual, single frame advance, and with either single servo focusing or manual focusing only :) In any case, Nikon Auto FP High-Speed Sync was revolutionary for 35mm photogs long ago in that it finally allowed shooting flash portrait sun-backlit scenes on the beaches here in SoCal at f/2.8 1/8000s with ISO 100 color neg film and no ND filters.
samuel Birkan (shmulb) on August 13, 2013
I am confused about using speeds above 1/320. If I set my FP Sync to 1/320 does that allow sync at all speeds above that ?
J. Ramon Palacios (jrp) on August 12, 2013
Jim, The D200 and earlier cameras had a top "normal" sync shutter speed of 1/250s, and it was considered a great advancement for those times when the top sync speed was 1/125s. So the advantage since then is to have both 1/250s, and 1/320s. You chose what best fits the aperture you want for good bokeh and no blown out highlights in the background for portraits under very bright light. I'll make a post in the Speedlights forum tonight with at least one sample shot.
Mike Banks (unclemikey) on August 12, 2013
Thank you Russ, you just cleared up a problem I was having recently outdoors. Great explanation. Love reading your articles.
Jim Seeds (Jim 1957) on August 12, 2013
Good explanation of a mode I use quite a bit. I am curious though why the D300 has auto FP available at both 1/250 and 1/320, what advantage would there be to spread the flash duration at the lower shutter speed?
Victor Rakmil (VR8) on August 12, 2013
Once more thanks, this is very useful and helpful.