Greetings, I assume the remote you have for your D600 that you are using is the ML-L3? The D600 has an IR receiver built into both the front and the rear of the camera body. Try replacing your ML-L3 remote battery with a fresh one. It is possible your battery on the remote is low and not providing enough IR output? Also please note there is an IR receiver built into the rear of the D600 body in the lower right corner. The dual front and back IR receivers for the D600 are very convenient in different shooting situations and the ML-L3 remote is relatively inexpensive. In the D600 shooting menu, the remote control option allows you to program how your ML-L3 remote functions when its shutter release button is pressed. (page 85 of the D600 manual) Good luck.
I am slightly handicapped, and need to use a remote to fire my D600 even when I am holding it in my hands. I have tried every conceivable combination of wired, wireless, and direct firing method I've been able to find. The best, bar none, is the Nikon WR-R10/WR-T10 Radio Frequency Transceiver combo. It's pricy, but very good. The Infra-Red ones are hard to mount on the camera because of the location of the sensors (front and rear) and the line-of-sight nature of light. The RF remote, on the other hand, doesn't care about that, because it's, well, RF. I have to use a handle mounted to the tripod socket, so that gives me a perfect mount for the transmitter. Highly recommended.
Since I wrote that 2 months ago, two of the receiver portions of the Nikon set-up have failed. The first was replaced at no cost by Adorama, and they are doing the same again. I bought a similar, although a bit less elegant rig (Alzo), which is working well through the past two rather rigorous (500+ clicks) weekends. I don't know about the long-term durability of this accessory, but the Nikon one sure has it's problems. I have yet to determine the actual failure, but in both receivers, the light indicates that it receives the transmitted signal, but the shutter doesn't fire. This could be a setting somewhere, but the cameras (D600, D7000) fire on the Alzo remote and both wired remotes I have tried. The Nikon setup cost nearly $200 (Transmitter about $125, and receiver about $65) - the Alzo about $35 for Tx and Rx. Good luck to anyone who goes down this path.
Well, now this is getting suspicious. I just had my Alzo remote trigger quit working in the exact same way as my 3 previous Nikon triggers. All the remote triggers are wireless, and all have worked well for several weeks, then failed. I'm using a wired remote now, and I wonder how long it will work. Maybe there is a problem with the camera itself. Much as I hate it, I may end up sending the D600 in to Nikon.
Sat 12-Oct-13 07:40 PM | edited Sat 12-Oct-13 08:13 PM by tfeazel
Received the new remote from Nikon Thursday, and it works normally. In the meantime, I have been using this Neewer unit - cost $14.00 - which works more reliably than the $200.00 worth of Nikon gear. I'm a big devotee of Nikon, and their piece of equipment looks a lot more elegant than the cheap one; that counts for a lot. But this piece of c--p (they censored my first thought) is not worthy of the Nikon name.
The Neewer Unit:
BTW, I have most of the remotes that are mentioned in this thread, including the network ones, the infrared ones, the radio ones, and others I may not classify properly. The cheap Neewer one is far and away the most reliable. It has survived about 3000 clicks, way more than any of the others. The Nikon infra-red one is holding in there, too. I've had it about 3 years. My handicap doesn't allow use of it most of the time, though.
Hence the whole hassle with different units.
Explanation: Because of the need for the remote I use to be mounted fixed on the camera, and for the IR unit to be located where the camera can read the light from the unit, there is nowhere to mount the IR unit where where I can operate it and also operate the camera. I've tried every way I can think of to do this.
I don't like the ML-L3. I can't count on it working unless I'm pointing it directly at the IR port on the camera. I use the Nikon MC-DC2, which is wired or a pair of Yongnuo RF603s (about $30/pr). They work on radio frequency not IR (like the ML-L3), so you don't have to worry about line of sight. If money is no object, there's Pocket Wizard...
Jim Singler D600/D7K with a bunch of lenses and other assorted stuff
>> If >>money is no object, there's Pocket Wizard... > > >Money no object? Pocketwizards start at $99. I'd hardly >consider that a "money no object" type of price. >Especially when talking about a $2k camera. But maybe I'm out >of touch. > >
If money was no object, hiring an assistant is the best solution.
I hate when people ask me what I see myself doing in 5 years...... I don't have 2020 vision!
Well, maybe for some. My remotes tend to go in places people are not allowed to be. Such as behind the goal in soccer, behind home plate in baseball/softball, etc. And sometimes they go in places that a person cannot physically be, Above the dugout, on the backboard in basketball, etc.
Assistants are useful, but remotes can be priceless.
>If money was no object, hiring an assistant is the best >solution. >