>Nothing wrong with ISO 1000. This evening try shooting at ISO >3200 and 6400. The image quality will knock your socks off! > >Of course, IQ is better at ISO 100… > >Enjoy the camera! > >Jon Kandel >A New York City Nikonian and Team Member >Please visit my website and critique the >images! > I just got my D800 and tested it with my Nikkor 28-300VR. I upgraded from my D700. With the D700 I shot ISO 4000 without issue. I tried this with the D800 and the noise was so bad I could not use any of the images. It reminds me of my old D300. Nothing over ISO640.
What are you guys doing that allows you to use the higher ISO's ?
>The D800, when it's files are reduced in size of a D4 file, >has about the same noise as the D4. Please post an image. What >do you use to process? > >Jon Kandel >A New York City Nikonian and Team Member >Please visit my website and critique the >images! >
Cheers, David Visit My Nikonians Gallery. I used Lightroom 5.3 for PP. Both these shots were PP with the same settings. I couldn't go any higher than ISO400 with the D800 without getting noise I couldn't fix. D700, 300mm@f/8, 1/800, ISO1000, EV-.3, CWA, handheld
It”s really hard to make these kinds of judgments from this JPG, but I can say that your settings are, to me, very aggressive. While there are no set settings that work for any image — and on occasion, any settings can zoom off the scale, I wonder if you are over sharpening (including Clarity and Vibrance) and then over noise-reducing.
Here are my starting settings, applied on import. In parentheses are generalities about what might happen during processing: Contrast 10 (this can vary from 0 to 25 \) Clarity 20 (this can increase) Vibrance 15 (this may increase, but carefully and not by much) Sharpening, low ISO: Amount 50 Radius .7 Detail 35 Sharpening, ISO 800 or higher: Amount 35 Radius 1.2 Detail 20 I vary amount and detail occasionally. Masking is image specific and very useful. Noise Reduction Color 25 Detail 50 Smoothness 50 Luminance settings as needed, but for high ISO this might be a starting ballpark: Luminance 60 Detail 50 Contrast 50
Bear in mind that your D800e gives you a sharper RAW file than normal. Also, high radius is appropriate for lower res files. Another factory is view size: viewing a D800 file at 100% is actually much, much larger than viewing a 12 mb or 16 mb file at 100%. Unless you are printing mural size, you may achieve better results viewing at 50%.
Keep shooting; I'm sure your results — and your satisfaction — will improve at all ISO settings.
Jon Kandel A New York City Nikonian and Team Member Please visit my website and critique the images!
Hi Jon, Thanks for the encouragement. I will keep shooting, just not with a D800. This is what the original image looked like pre-PP. I wouldn't share such a soft image. That is why I ran the LR settings to what they were. On my D700 I use settings much more like what you suggested. Cheers, David Visit My Nikonians Gallery.
Just out of curiosity as I am learning with my D800. Why did you choose ISO5000?
The reason I ask is this is the problem I had with my D800 when I use Auto ISO in bright sunlight and with white objects. I have the same lens as you do, but I have the D800 not the E. I have started using ISO 200 and letting the camera set the speed and not the ISO. The reason is I have noticed that when the camera is at a high ISO and the speed is also high (1/1000) the pictures look soft like yours. Limiting the upper ISO in sunlight has made a difference for me, even in the late evenings, granted my speed can drop to 1/60 but the photos are crisper.
Was it actually darker when you took the photo than it appears? Since this is cropped I am not sure how dark it really was.
>Hi Jon, >Thanks for the encouragement. I will keep shooting, just not >with a D800. >This is what the original image looked like pre-PP. I wouldn't >share such a soft image. That is why I ran the LR settings to >what they were. On my D700 I use settings much more like what >you suggested. >Cheers, >David >Visit >My >Nikonians Gallery.> >
I chose the 5000ISO to allow for the 1/1600 shutter speed to try and stop the motion. As it has been pointed out, that wasn't fast enough as the wings were moving to fast. I shoot ISO5000 with my D700 a lot to give me the fastest shutter I can get for these conditions. This image was just converted to 1024x768 size but not actually "cropped" as the image filled the frame. The light was very flat and dim. Cheers, David Visit My Nikonians Gallery.
Tue 31-Dec-13 07:21 AM | edited Tue 31-Dec-13 08:11 AM by jamesvoortman
Nice shot Alan! I have never been able to get that close to our local herons. If you enjoy wildlife and bird photography you'll find lots of like-minded souls in the Wildlife forum.
ISO 1000 is no problem on D800. I routinely use ISO up to 2500 with a long lens in poor light when photographing birds. Noise due to high ISO is often less visible in the main subject than in the out-of-focus background, due to the texture of the feathers so you can get away with it.
To minimise "crystallising" of out-of-focus areas at high ISO, I shoot in RAW, then remove all in-camera sharpening and use a selection brush in post processing to select and sharpen only the in-focus parts of the main subject. This leaves creamy soft out-of-focus areas without needing a lot of detail-robbing noise reduction. Of course, if you are prepared to invest more time, you can invert your sharpening selection and apply noise reduction or blur to give further softening where required.
If you shoot in Jpeg then you have no option but to use some degree of in-camera sharpening for best results. You can experiment with combinations of in-camera sharpening and High-ISO-Noise-Reduction to see what gives best results.
We each seem to develop our own strategy for sharpening and handling noise - I think there are many ways to get to the final result. I shoot in RAW and post process in CNX2. Using this system, all the in-camera RAW adjustments are retained and in my experience, excessive in-camera sharpening can dramatically increase the effect of noise. For those who pp Nikon RAW images in Lightroom or Photoshop, many of the proprietary Nikon adjustments are stripped out automatically - I am not sure if this includes in-camera sharpening. IF LR/PS retains the in-camera sharpening then it is source of noise that might be worth considering.
In the case of Dave's comparison between D700 and D800 - I think there must be some inconsistency in settings between the cameras. HINR, in-camera sharpening. Also, to compare D800 noise fairly with D700, one should really downsample the D800 images to 12 Mp.