Hello, I've been reading the forums about remote releases (just realised I can't use my old ML-L3 on my D00E.)
I've just seen though, that in the 'shooting menu' under D4, I can set 'exposure delay mode' to 2 seconds or more. Then, pressing the shutter, will firstly lock the mirror up, then automatically release the shutter after 2 seconds or more. (easier than the Mup function)
This is great news for me, as I wasn't happy with all the palaver involved with RF receivers, transmitters and cable
I wonder if anyone can help with something though - I'm now thinking if there is a 'hands off' way to shoot a + 30 second exposure? Will I still need to buy a cheap cable release just for those occasions? Mind, you I could live with that
Sat 29-Jun-13 06:17 PM | edited Sat 29-Jun-13 06:19 PM by ClassicNikonF
I use a RFN-4S remote trigger which a number of Nikonians here use. It's a RF remote and no palaver, really. It's a wonderful product. And at $69, relatively inexpensive and yet totally reliable in the many hours of my actual usage. 4.7 stars on Amazon. Anyway, once you set your camera to Bulb setting, you press the remote button and hold for 2 or so secs. When the blue light on the remote goes out, the shutter is locked open and you can release the button. Press the remote again to end the Bulb shutter.
Thanks for replies. I saw the RFN-4s but not available in UK, and I have decided never to deal with amazon.com again (or amazon.co.uk - see below). I ordered a few small, light items from amazon.com for order value £68.50. With shipping + import fees deposit this rose to £163.33 - then, despite paying the import fees deposit which should have covered import, the courier demanded another £25. So the order of £68.50 cost me £188! I got nowhere with amazon, and they would not tell me what happened to my import fees deposit. I will never deal with them again.
Concerning amazon.co.uk a while ago. I looked at the lowish price of D800E, but decided to research the seller. I found out they were in Hong Kong. I contacted amazon.co.uk (should be amazon.co.brussels where they are based for tax!) and they confirmed that a) I would have to pay UK Vat/Import Duty/any import courier fees, and b) I would not receive the Nikon warranty, or be able to register and upgrade to 2 years. They agreed with me that if my prized D800E went wrong I'd basically be sending it back to an electronics warehouse in hong kong! The seller do say they will refund import charges, but this involves sending invoice/claim form to hong kong, doing a vat re-claim form + keeping your fingers crossed
I tell you this, because I feel anyone dealing with amazon should be careful, esp. for high value items, or those from mixed vendors (in the uk anyway, they have amazon marketplace, which means that those sellers will each charge their own delivery costs, and amazon admitted to me that they undersell but their profit comes from high delivery costs)
Another strange thing about the D800E is that after I remonstrated with amazon.co.uk on the phone, I noticed the price had now gone up to more than UK retail price(?), the original seller disappeared, and there were 2 new sellers, although both from abroad (so how was price now £300 more than UK retail!). But, it is now down to 1 seller (still not from Uk though), and the price has again dropped to below UK price. SEE MY 'REVIEW' ON AMAZON.CO.UK + UPDATE MADE TODAY I don't know what amazon are playing at, but I have decided I will never deal with amazon in the UK or the USA again. They have caused me huge stress, use 'smoke & mirrors' & care nothing about customers. Oh, did I mention that I didn't think much of amazon! Roy
Roy -- "TINSTAAFL" There Is No Such Thing As A Free Lunch! Kudos for digging your way through the Hong Kong source. Here in the colonies there are several web sites that review businesses and expose the "baiters and switchers" and others who simply never deliver what they promise. I feel certain you can find similar reviews in the UK and EU. Good on ya!
You can also use the Live View method. The mirror will already be up and out of the way, eliminating the mirror slap. There is also a delay for a second or two, while the camera settles down after tripping the shutter.
I'm gadgety and a geek... so of course i like my Phottix wireless timer - does multiple exposures really well for star trails w/ minimum 1 sec gap between shots. (almost identical to this one)
The one second gap got me looking for other options. Found Triggertrap and LOVE it. Inexpensive if you want to do shots wired, and can do wireless (via two wireless devices - ipod touch and ipad, or iphone/ipad). Not cheap then, but neat feature. I usually do just the iphone (since always on me) and have it as a wired remote. It can do fraction of a second gaps between shots.
Looks like so:
about $30 which is a great price (remember you need your phone or ipod w/ free triggertrap app).
Looks like also works on Android phones.
plugs into the audio jack on phone/ipod/ipad/etc. Pretty great features and definitely worth looking into.
1) remote release (wired or RF) vs using timer and mirror delay :
I find, especially when doing macro shots of either critters or plants in a slight breeze, that you cannot anticipate the future movement and position of the subject at the time of shutter release when using the built-in timer (and to a lesser extent, the delay feature). So for these subjects I prefer to use a wired remote as it allows me to trigger the shutter exactly when I want it.
2) exposures longer than 30sec :
I don't know how the RF remotes do it but the shutter release button on the my MC30 and MC36 has a sliding lock that can be used to hold the shutter open.
So if you were shooting static subjects where the exact moment of release is not critical then using the built-in timer and mirror/shutter delay is feasible. For all situations where motion occurs, you'll probably want a wired or RF remote.
My MC30 lives permanently in my camera bag. It is light and unobtrusive and requires no settings or batteries. If you need to be further than a few feet from the camera then RF remotes make more sense.
I will need a remote, certainly for +30s exposures, and as James said, for things that move where I want to take the shot 'now'
Only thing I'll need to consider now is that I will, before too long, be looking into a flash when a bit of extra, outside light might be helpful, or even macro which I'm starting.
But with the flash, I'm wondering whether the MC-30 or similar will won't, or if I'll need something a bit more than the MC-30 - I'll have to look into that, unless someone can offer advice
Many thanks, Roy Bye the way, I was looking into photo mechanic some time ago, but went with Lightroom. But I had already had a local printer print out the 150+ page Photo Mechanic user guide for Version 4.6.3 FoC if anyone needs it (also FoC ML-L3 remote, as no good to me now).
>But with the flash, I'm wondering whether the MC-30 or similar >will won't, or if I'll need something a bit more than the >MC-30 - I'll have to look into that, unless someone can offer >advice >
The D800 has the Nikon CLS built-in so it can trigger and adjust output on remote flashes wirelessly. I use SB800. The MC30 or MC 36 works seamlessly with the flash.
Some of the RF remotes mount in the flash hotshoe bracket for convenience but they still connect into the 10 pin socket. So if you go this route, look for one that has a hotshoe "pass through" and can mount a flash (i.e. flash onto remote onto camera).
Regarding flash sync.....if using flashes that are not compatible with CLS, there is also a flash sync terminal that is independent of the 10 pin socket and flash hotshoe.
So you should have no problems connecting the various gadgets simultaneously if you choose carefully.
>But with the flash, I'm wondering whether the MC-30 or similar >will won't, or if I'll need something a bit more than the >MC-30 - I'll have to look into that, unless someone can offer >advice
Yes! You can use a remote cord or even an RF remote and flash at the same time. The MC-30 plugs in to the 10 pin Motor Terminal Release port on the camera body. Speedlights are connected to the hotshoe on the top of the camera.
Tue 20-Aug-13 07:54 AM | edited Tue 20-Aug-13 07:55 AM by Vlad_IT
>It doesn't require a two second delay. The shutter will fire >as soon as the transmitter button is pressed. > >For BULB mode - press TX button for one second and shutter >opens, press TX button again and shutter closes. > >To switch TX off - press button for two seconds. To switch RX >off - press button until red light stops flashing, or leave it >alone and it'll switch itself off (after two hours of non-use >I think).
Thank you so much! That is what I wanted to hear. Ordered wired cable release for now for $5 and change. But will get RF one as soon as other major parts are in place Best regards, Vlad
>It's the best remote I've used so far (I've got an MC-30 and >a Phottix as well) - it's worth getting just for the tiny size >of the receiver.
I found from reviews that RFN-4S does not play with bracketing - it just locks up the D800. please see the quote belew
"When you hold the button down on the RFN-4s it goes into Bulb mode. You have to release it and press it again to unlock the camera. This system interferes with the D800 bracketing burst when used with CH exposure mode"
Any other RF outthere that works perfect with all features of D800?
>I tested mine with the D800E and the results were as >follows. > >RFN-4s works fine on all of these settings: > >• BULB (press for 1 second to open shutter, press again to >close) >• BKT >• MUP >• S >• CL/CH (press for 1 second) >• BKT + MUP >• BULB + MUP > >The only setting where RFN-4s gets confused is this one: > >• CL/CH + BKT (camera locks up but will complete BKT sequence >if camera powered off and on again) >
Thanks for the full and quick response.
I just read someplace that even in CL/CH + BKT camera locks after completing all frames!!!!! pressing remote button (or maybe shutter release button???, not sure what the poster meant) half way down will bring camera back to life.
CL/CH + BKT is the only one that might cause problems (as I said in post 21).
I just tried it again and the results were as follows:
• CL + BKT (3-shot) - worked fine on three separate runs • CL + BKT (5-shot) - worked fine on three separate runs • CH + BKT (3 shot) - worked fine on three separate runs • CH + BKT (5-shot) - locked up once in three separate runs ***
*** Camera completed and recorded all five exposures to the card. Turning the power off and on again unlocked the camera immediately.
All runs are with a 32GB Sandisk Extreme 60MB/S CF card.