Any Special High Resolution Large Print Techniques for D800/E?
We all know D800/E with its 36MP has an advantage for a high resoultion large print. In addition to the usual tripod technique, is there any special approach or technique can be deployed for a stunning resoultion on any subject for wall prints 40"X60" and over? This will really make 36MP D800/E shines.
#1. "RE: Any Special High Resolution Large Print Techniques for D800/E?" | In response to Reply # 0PerroneFord Nikonian since 07th Apr 2011Thu 30-May-13 04:56 AM
Given the choice, I'd say shoot it like a view camera. Solid tripod and head, use live view, use a remote release, use the zoom on the live view to ensure focus if possible, etc.
All that aside, 40x60 and up is a BIG print. If you are going to hang a photo like that where someone can put their nose on it, then people will be able to pick it apart. I'm a LOT more comfortable in the 60-80MP area if I am going to be printing that big. Which is why 20x30 is usually my limit!
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#2. "RE: Any Special High Resolution Large Print Techniques for D800/E?" | In response to Reply # 1RRRoger Charter MemberThu 30-May-13 11:52 AM | edited Thu 30-May-13 11:54 AM by RRRoger
Don't forget to use the best glass available.
At 8x10 the D800 makes any lens perform better.
But, I think a 40x60 print will show any defect better instead.
It might also be advantageous to use a high resolution external monitor (with peaking) to help focusing.
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#3. "RE: Any Special High Resolution Large Print Techniques for D800/E?" | In response to Reply # 2Thu 30-May-13 01:29 PM
Yes, focusing help is very essential. I am also wondering if there is a multi-exposure technique possible to further the resolution per unit area.
#4. "RE: Any Special High Resolution Large Print Techniques for D800/E?" | In response to Reply # 1lukaswerth Registered since 24th May 2012Sat 01-Jun-13 02:24 AM
The 100% view on the screen must be something like 44x66". I have never seen yet how that looks in print, but I once asked a similar question, and was told I would have to use some software to break down the pixels - Coral or something. What about that?
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#5. "RE: Any Special High Resolution Large Print Techniques for D800/E?" | In response to Reply # 0
Just some supplementary thoughts on
The eye takes in about 6MP at normal viewing distance, which is when the viewer is the same distance away from the image as the diagonal of the image.
When you're printing in half-tones, you have to upsample by 2x because of the way half-tone printing loses information. Examples of half-tone printing are standard CMYK magazine print, laser printer and advertising billboards.
If you're printing as large as 40" x 60" then the most important consideration is how far the viewer is going to be. For an advertising billboard, 12MP is all that is required, because of the distance the viewer is away, and the final resolution is around 12-15 lines per inch.
If you're printing for display stands, then you usually print from an inkjet roll-printer. Inkjets usually use stochastic rendering, which means you don't have to upsample by 2x. We used to regularly print at 80cm x 200cm, which is about 31"x78", which is the dimensions of a roll-up banner. This actually requires a larger image than your 40"x60". Even at that size, and with people walking up to 1-2 feet away, 12MP was ample.
Continuous tone prints, like dye-sublimation, also don't require up-sampling.
At 36MP, you're going to get a resolution of 125 pixels per inch on a large format inkjet or dye-sublimation print. As a comparison, a newspaper would typically have a resolution of 70-90 lines per inch (lines because it is using half-toning), a full-colour advertising leaflet a resolution of 120-150, a magazine a resolution of 130-150, and an art book a resolution of 200 lines per inch.
From two feet away, your viewers will see it as one smooth image and will not be aware of the dots. From one foot away, attentive viewers with good eyesight will see the dots if they are looking for them.
Obviously — and this is where the thread started — your technique for capturing the sharpest possible shot makes a huge difference. Most advertising images are captured using studio lights because these make everything sharp. When working with natural light, landscapes (for example) will always be a mixture of sharp and soft because of the movement of air over grass, trees, and many other things.
Your pre-output sharpening routine will play the biggest part, though. To prepare images for output, you need to use the sharpening formula appropriate for your image size, your device and your viewing distance. A properly sharpened image will astonish viewers. NIK Sharpener preps images in this way, but you can get the formulae and work out the amount of sharpening yourself if you prefer. However, you can't do this 'by eye' — what will work for a particular device output will look wrong on screen.
Hope this helps.
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#7. "RE: Any Special High Resolution Large Print Techniques for D800/E?" | In response to Reply # 5ericbowles Nikonian since 25th Nov 2005Sat 01-Jun-13 01:43 PM
If your ultimate output is going to be a large print, workflow will probably need to be adjusted. A 40"x60" print is going to significantly upsize the image from native resolution, so any noise or artifacts will be magnified. It's the opposite of the benefit of downsizing.
Start with an image with minimal processing. That includes capture sharpening and any auto levels or auto saturation steps. Do not use any shadow recovery or exposure adjustment until after upsizing. Those steps can create artifacts that are visible on an upsized image, so you upsize first and then apply those steps.
The rule of thumb is to only upsize 50% in a single step, so you would upsize to 40 x 60 using two steps. If there is any cleanup of noise, you want to apply very light noise reduction before you upsize. If necessary, apply the noise reduction selectively. You may want to clone out dust spots before upsizing, but you don't need to do all cloning at that point.
I would set my target size based on 300 ppi. You could use a lower resolution - 250 ppi or less - but it will affect final resolution.
When it comes to sharpening, you may want a round of light high pass sharpening. Use a very small radius for this sharpening as it will represent your capture sharpening. You may also want a small amount of contrast.
After that, proceed as normal. All your edits will be essentially the same except for sharpening. With a large print, you may notice flaws that need to be fixed, so take your time and look for details. For example, I may apply High Pass sharpening selectively to some soft areas to bring out edges.
Any edit that uses a radius or number of pixels will need a different setting for a very large image. A 40x60 print will take a lot more sharpening - high pass, unsharp mask, or tonal contrast - compared to a normal size print. That is both a larger radius and greater intensity.
With this approach you can produce a very large image that can be viewed up close. Processing time will be a little slower - so be patient. But there is no reason why the D800E cannot produce spectacular large images.
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