I am trying to get my head around this topic so I would appreciate comments on how I think it works.
1. If the mode is A. The camera will raise the ISO up to the maximum entered in the ISO sensitivity setting and if that will not allow for sufficient exposure the camera, as a last resort, reduce the Shutter speed below the # set as Minimum shutter speed.
2. If the mode is S. The camera will raise the ISO to the maximum ISO sensitivity BUT will not lower the shutter speed set. In this situation the image will be underexposed.
As a related question I shoot our grand children's hockey games. I need a fast shutter speed so I would think I should use mode S. However this may result in underexposed images. What if I used S and then enter minimum and maximum ISO that I am confident will not result in underexposure? This way I can ensure a fast shutter speed.
Thoughts and recommendations on the above would be appreciated.
why not try manual f stop and shutter with auto iso. I use that with Birds in flight with good results. 1600 gives great shots you can push it to 2500 with good shots. I would not go above that without noise reduction software and some loss in IQ. I shoot a d800e
Thanks for the tip. So I use Mode M and set appropriate aperture (for depth of field, lighting)and Speed to, say, 1/800. Then set ISO at, say, 200. Then set Maximum ISO at 2500. Do I set minimum speed at, say, 1/400. Have I got the right idea?
Sat 08-Dec-12 01:24 AM | edited Sat 08-Dec-12 01:33 AM by klrbee25
Using AutoISO in Manual mode is really flexible and convenient. You choose your shutter speed and f/stop. Let AutoISO choose any ISO from the minimum up to your chosen maximum. You won't set shutter speeds in AutoISO (or they won't be utilized) while in Manual mode. The camera will shoot at your selected speed and f/stop while varying the ISO to get proper exposure. As long as your exposure (shutter speed and f/stop for a given ambient light and subject illumination level) falls within the limits attainable by the AutoISO range you selected, you can shoot at your settings without thinking about anything other than capturing your subject. An AutoISO range of 100 to 6400 is 6EV...a huge range!
You can use this to your advantage if you start at one end of the AutoISO range and expect that any variations in your exposure will be in the opposite direction. For example, imagine you're a bright sunny outdoor sporting event. Say you find you can use a shutter speed of 1/500 at f/4 and ISO 100 which gives proper exposure in the direct sun. So you set up your manual mode to 1/500 at f/4 and turn on Auto ISO with a base of 100 and a limit of 1600. You now have 4 stops of additional sensitivity if clouds, shadows or anything else makes for a darker scene requiring longer exposure (or higher ISO)...while all the while you're shooting away without worrying about camera settings.
I don't recommend that you use Auto ISO if you shoot different exposure brackets for HDR.
I was shooting some HDR this week in A mode, and forgot to check my ISO setting. I normally leave Auto ISO turned off and ISO at 100 for HDR, but somehow auto ISO gets turned on by accident sometimes. This week it got turned on, and the results were pretty bad. I did not have my maximum ISO set low, and the camera went nuts on long exposures. The ISO went from 100 on my short exposures to over 4000 for my long ones.
Teach me to check every time I am switching to bracket shooting!
Unfortunately you cannot transfer settings between Shooting Menu or Custom Settings banks. Also there is no way to edit the settings externally and then upload them into you camera. Both abilities would be nice, but are not available for any Nikon.
Gary in SE Michigan, USA. Nikonians membership - My most important photographic investment, after the camera. D4, D810, D300 (720nm IR conversion), D90, F6, FM3a (black), FM2n (chrome) YashicaMat 124, Graflex Speed Graphic 4x5 My Nikonians Gallery & Our Chapter Gallery