I don't know if this exist on any DSLR, but, I would like to have a setting option on the D7k, to turn the camera off after a selected time with no buttons being pushed and/or no motion of the camera. I'm forever leaving it on after a photo session, only to find the battery is dead or almost dead the next day. Just need to learn to turn it off after each use, I guess. LOL
Not sure why you're having a battery problem. The D7000, like all Nikon bodies, automatically goes into idle mode after a certain period of time. The top LCD will still display normal information, but AF is shut off along with everything else except the top LCD. The D7000 should last days and days in idle mode. Your battery may just be very low at the end of some sessions.
I'd love to be able to have more control over what goes into the 1st and/or 2nd card slot. I recently got an Eye-Fi-fi card and it's fantastic. I use it to send photos directly to my iPhone/iPad and usually have to set the camera to shoot medium size images in order to not bog down the devices too much. I rarely shoot RAW and I would like to shoot large jpeg on the first card and Medium jpeg on the 2nd card (which I would designate as my Eye-Fi card slot.
A lock for the mode dial. There is a lock for the release dial under it. I find it all too easy to accidentally change the mode dial setting - and sometimes end up shooting in manual metering or similar.
Photography is a bit like archery. A technically better camera, lens or arrow may not hit the target as often as it could if the photographer or archer does not practice enough.
Very simple: pressing the OK button while reviewing a pic to jump to 100% magnify and back, to be able to quicly check focus.
Also simple: an option for the AE-L/AF-L button to also activate VR when assigned to the AF-ON function (AF/VR-ON).
Still simple: an extra Fn button with a vast range of choices. This could be placed between the AE-L/AF-L and the rear dial.
One hardware change and a couple of lines on the software would easily make all three come true. Or, just do it on a next version of the battery grip.
http://egozarolho.blogspot.com 1. Good content, good aesthetics and good tecnique. On that order. 2. Light is more important than glass and pixels. 3. In the digital photography process, software is as important as gear.
The most desirable feature the D7000 could add is the D3100 price.
Although a totally unmitigated bargain by any measure or comparison, it still is more than the budget some people have for new bodies. Like me, who is lens poor, all my money has gone into pro glass and not much is left in the cookie jar for bodies.
Just one feature? Nah, here is the gripe list, and I am not even an owner
1) +1 on locking mode switch. Canon's midrange models have it.
2) Would also love to see a wired remote port that is not on the side of the camera. What is the point of it being there, it makes it pointless to own an L-bracket if you prefer wired over IR remote.
3) Remove the dedicated image quality button from the back. Changing that via a menu option is fine. Most of us keep it in RAW all the time, what is the point of having a dedicated button... and on top of the ISO button to boot, so we can accidentally switch from RAW to JPEG while fumbling with the ISO button in the dark (yes, I have done it)
4) LV that responds dynamically to changes in aperture and shutter speed. I am not 100% sure but I think that equivalent Canon models do this.
5) Optional histograms in LV.
6) Custom function for one-button display of histograms. Sort of like neutered LV. This may be asking for too much, since the mirror may need to come up for it to work, particularly for RGB historgrams. However with a 2kpx+ meter they could at least display a luminance histogram based on what the meter is seeing.
7) No pop-up flash. Not good for much anyway, they could use the real estate for a larger VF or just to reduce the size/weight.
8) NO VIDEO. Yep, you read this right. Get rid of video, use the savings to either lower the price or implement one or more of the features above.
9) Electronic 3D bubble level, ideally superimposed on the sensor image in LV. No more fumbling for an external bubble level (and loosing it in the dark).
I think that the D400 will address 1,2,4,5. Some Canons have #9 so we may get it too. If I am correct, the weight is under 1.5 lbs, the price around $1700, and the form factor similar to the D300 then it will be my next camera. Otherwise I may go for a D7k or wait till spring to see what the 5D3 looks like (gasp) before making a decision. Nikon FX is just not in my future. The bodies are too heavy and so are the lenses.
Thu 21-Jul-11 07:11 PM | edited Thu 21-Jul-11 07:13 PM by Len Shepherd
>You do know that the d7k has a 360* auto level built in. I use it daily. Works great but it only works in live view as >far as I know. A bit of clarification - Live View is not needed. The FV lock on the front of the camera in default locks the flash value. You can change FV to show the viewfinder virtual horizon on the rear screen instead. It is an F3 menu option There are 18 other FV button options - instruction book pages 230 and 231 has the details.
Photography is a bit like archery. A technically better camera, lens or arrow may not hit the target as often as it could if the photographer or archer does not practice enough.
Wow, You see there is more to learn every day. Thank you Len. I do know that the virtual horizon is going to get a workout on my d7k. I need to re read the manual. Thanks again for clearing that up. Don
>3) Remove the dedicated image quality button from the back. >Changing that via a menu option is fine. Most of us keep it
>7) No pop-up flash. Not good for much anyway, they could use
I'd miss Nikon's CLS, the remote trigger of flash units using the on-board flash. Of course it could be implemented with built-in wireless but that means a whole new line of Nikon flashes. Wait a minute... that's not a bad idea from a Nikon marketing perspective!
I would like to add an "AF-Lock Hold" option for the AE/AF button of the Fn button. That way I could use the shutter button to focus (I like the beep!) and then lock focus WITHOUT having to keep the AE/AF button held down which I find awkward. I have tried AF-ON and I like it, but being a lefty, I like to use my left eye for the viewfinder, and that means that my face gets in the way of the AE/AF button making using it for primary focus or holding it down to hold focus very awkward. I have also used the Fn button as a focus lock, and this is better but you still have to keep it held down. I am sure this will become less of an issue once I start manual focusing more for my landscape shots however.
I am right handed, and I do not like where you have to put the AF-ON. Always poking myself in the nose or eye trying to press the button, plus I have to back off from the viewfinder with my thumb on the button. Not well laid out at all. It should be on the lower left side of the body in front, or maybe the lower left part in the rear.
Fri 22-Jul-11 01:38 AM | edited Fri 22-Jul-11 01:40 AM by RRRoger
Sorry guys that are having ergonomic problems. But, Nikon built the D7000 body for my hands. It fits better than any glove I've worn or any camera I've held.
Good news thou, go down to the camera store and get "hands on". Nikon has at least 5 cameras with different layouts of controls and one should fit you better. The D5100 for one is totally different. The only button that is in the right place for me is the shutter. And why would I need any info button let alone two?
If Nikon would upgrade the D7000 firmware again to include 1080 Video at 30fps I would probably upgrade to a 3rd one.
You might also try shooting with the vertical battery grip.
I should state that I am still over the moon with my D7000, wanting to add extra features, of change the design slightly doesn't mean that I am dissatisfied. There is no such thing as a perfect Camera, this thread is a reflection of that,not a reflection of un-happy D7000 adopters.
Sun 24-Jul-11 10:53 AM | edited Sun 24-Jul-11 10:58 AM by Winterfell
auto-iso minimum shutter setting tied to focal length.
If you could select 1.0xfocal length or 1.5xfocal length that would be super cool. I have it set to 1/300s for my 300mm zoom lens... when i switch to my 17-55 I often forget, and the camera ends up picking higher iso settings than needed to get to that 1/300s speed.
(this concept was grossly overstated as a negative in the dpreview review of the d7000--but it is a good idea. hoping we'll see it in future cameras)
+1 5 step, I guess. just jumping on the bandwagon
Question for you all on the 5 step bracketing--do you use this for hdr photography, or is it strictly for situations where you're really unsure of the correct exposure? I find that shooting raw with the D7000s dynamic range you have a lot of room to work with to tweak a slightly under or overexposed image. If you're doing hdrs, each shot you use introduces the potential for noise in the final image due to movement in the scene from shot to shot. (think wind in grasses, etc...)
+1 1080p 30fps +1 liveview histogram +1 zoom % display in liveview (or at least way to get to 100%)
720p 50/60fps (for slo-mo stuff) Integrated GPS (with energy management so you don't wear down the battery)
I'm not holding my breath for any of these showing up in the D7000, but maybe the D400/D800.
>Question for you all on the 5 step bracketing--do you use this >for hdr photography, or is it strictly for situations where >you're really unsure of the correct exposure? 5 bracket when unsure of a correct exposure? This sounds like just a way not to pay attention . I don't see why even HDR needs 5-bracket, most of my HDRs are just 2 exposures blended, but I seem to be in the minority.
>+1 zoom % display in liveview (or at least way to get to >100%) Isn't this already there? It is on the D90, 4 clicks on the magnifying glass takes you to 100%
>Integrated GPS (with energy management so you don't wear down >the battery) This one would be tough to pull off. When you shut off a GPS it takes anywhere from a minute to few minutes to lock on. Therefore this cannot be something that only turns on when you press the shutter. An alternative would be a setting that wakes the GPS periodically, e.g., every 10 mins, and it approximates the position from the nearest points when it needs to.
>I'm not holding my breath for any of these showing up in the >D7000, but maybe the D400/D800. Nikon has never done a major firmware revision for a camera to add substantial new functionality so you are correct, the D7k is a nogo.
Apart from the much-requested mode dial lock, I'd like something that the £100 Canon Ixus I use at work does - it creates a new folder each day and the folder name includes the date. The Minolta A1 I had eight years ago did it too. I find this an extremely useful feature.
>Aperture range limitation! > >Many lenses are at their best stopped down one or two stops >and on the D7000 you are hitting diffraction limits between >F8-11.
Diffraction and diffraction limits have little to do with camera bodies, so I'm not sure your statement is accurate. Almost every lens review I've ever read and almost every lens review I've ever done shows a sharpest stop range spanning 4-5 stops. In fact, there are quite a few Nikkor lenses which perform equally well - that is to say, very well indeed - at large apertures (f/1.4, 1.8, 2.0, 2.8) as they do at f/16. Of course diffraction exists between f/8 and f/11 as has been stated, but diffraction is comparatively measurable at all stops in every lens ever made. I think that whether or not technically measurable diffraction visibly affects a photo has more to do with the skill of the photographer - his or her technical set up and composition skills that is - than the mechanical diffraction effects inherent in any particular lens.
Lens makers - Nikon and Canon in particular - having been working successfully in each generation of lenses to noticeably reduce the effect of visible diffraction. I think the effect of diffraction is far less relevant with respect to landscape photography - or any sort of photography requiring deep depth of field - than it used to be.
Glass is better, iris design is better, capture processing is better.
My overall impression of this thread, is that a lot of photographers would love to have every feature under the sun packed into a $1,200 body. My view is that such a camera would actually help Nikonians expand its paid membership by an order of magnitude. I think the vast majority of the owners of such a camera (likely myself included) might find the depth and breadth of features in such a camera too complicated to use effectively, so they'd all end up on Nikonians exchanging technical support.
Personally, I want a simpler camera. I think more photographers must take time to learn technical photography. Relying so much on greater automation and ever more powerful camera programming and CPU power places additional layers between the creative photography parts of our minds and our eyes, and the actual subject matter we're trying to shoot.
First of all, while there may be glass that performs well wide open - almost all of it performs even better a stop down. And, when weight is an issue and you are not hauling the heavy glass and shooting daylight (i.e. hiking the Sierras which we do a lot) the ability to limit the wide open end automatically would be a help. Of course, I would choose not to stop down my 70-200 f/2.8 VRII but I would stop down the 18-200 if I was choosing the all-in-one lens that day. I might even choose to set the 200-400 f/4 so that it only opened to 5.6 - especially when using the TC14e. It is certainly a fine lens, but could benefit. I am saying it is a feature you I would use - you may not.
Now diffraction. I believe your focus on diffraction being a lens only issue misses the point that the size of the photobuckets on the sensor is critical to RECORDING diffraction. Diffraction is a bigger issue on a D3X or D7000 than it is on a D3S. As such with a densly packed sensor on the D7000 (the highest pixel density of any Nikon ever) the ability to limit the high end would also be helpful.
Let me quote Thom Hogan on the issue of diffraction in general:
BEGIN QUOTE - "Diffraction Diffraction is a contentious and complex subject. Contentious partly because of misinterpretation, and I'll be the first one to admit that I've used the term "diffraction limited" a bit too casually in the past. Complex because multiple things contribute to whether you'll see the diffraction impacts in your image.
As you may recall, diffraction is produced by the opening of the lens (aperture opening). As such, the actual diffraction is always "the same" at f/16, no matter what camera you put that lens on. The matter gets a little complex due to whether or not the camera is recording the diffraction accurately. It should be obvious that if the diffracted light still falls onto the same photosite as the non-diffracted light, you wouldn't actually record the diffraction. What's not so obvious is what happens with multi-layer anti-aliasing and Bayer filters sitting on top of that photosites, and demosaicing that "interprets" actual pixel values.
In the past, I've used the term "diffraction limited aperture" to mean the aperture at which the diffraction is essentially fully recorded. Any physically smaller aperture than that would have the predicted additional diffraction impacts on the visual image. So if I wrote that "the D2x is diffraction limited at f/11" that would mean that f/11, f/16, and f/22 would be fully recording diffraction impacts, while f/8 would only be partially recording the expected diffraction impact. That doesn't mean that f/8 didn't have any visible diffraction differences in it from f/5.6, it just meant that the mechanics of the system weren't fully recording the diffraction yet." - END QUOTE
So lets find common ground. The fact is that lens/body combination do have a diffraction limit at which it will begin to visibly soften the image. The technical cause is of little importance and the debate of no real significance because it is the end result of diffraction I want to be able to avoid by setting an upper end to the range of aperture chosen in program mode. You might believe this to be f/16 no matter what the body - I may believe it to be f/9 or so on a D7000 - but neither of us would think that by f/22 we would be making the highest possible IQ with the lens. So both of us could benefit from being able to set the high end - we just might set it differently. That is a level of custom setting I would find desireable - and you might choose not to ever use.
That is true of many of the custom settings we already have in this camera. For example AF Fine Tune. On my 80-400 it turns a -8 or -9 setting (I can't quite decide) turns a mediocre performer into a pretty damn fine lens at 400! Yet, on the lens forums I am amazed that many people seem to flat out resist/refuse to try the feature and instead categorize their lens as "soft." I use the feture with success - others don't choose to use it.
If you look at my profile, you will see I don't lack for decent lenses - but while the 85 f/1.8 is probably the sharpest lens in the bag, features, circumstances and convenience mean I often choose to shoot with a zoom that isn't as technically sharp. Often I find it's about actually getting the shot more than fiddling around in the bag to have the ultimate weapon in hand and failing to record the perfect moment.
>Often I find it's about actually >getting the shot more than fiddling around in the bag to have >the ultimate weapon in hand and failing to record the perfect >moment. > >My 2 cents.
We obviously agree. I also think Mr. Hogan wanders off peridically into certain esoteric complaints, the elimination of which in lens and camera products can only be achieved by the expenditure of enormous amounts of R&D money. The $1,200 D7000 then morphs into a $5,000 D7000 (or D8000 or whatever)?
I should stay out of these sorts of threads because I think they're counterproductive and uninspiring.
Although I also could produce a long list of "wants", they would morph the little giant into a killer D4. We use the D7000 as a dedicated video rig to complement our D3S's we use for stills.
My biggest wish is to trash those darn SD cards and build all Nikon DSLR's with CF only card slots. Our early P&S (Coolpix 3500) used CF cards, so internal camera real estate is not really an issue. Besides the D7000 could be a bit larger and no one would notice. JMHO.