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knowing your circle of control for the d7k

TakeTwo

South Lake Tahoe, US
214 posts

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TakeTwo Silver Member Nikonian since 26th Jul 2009
Wed 23-Mar-11 03:43 AM

Hello Group. People keep asking why the d7k is harder to get good sharp shots with versus other models. The best answer I found for myself was to bench testing my equipment. I needed to know how short a shutter speed I could shot at and get a sharp image..I shoot mostly landscape so I'm on a tripod or mono pod 99 percent of the time. If I shoot handheld it has to be at close range, inside 200 ft. How might I know my own limits? How steady am I? I tried this simple test and you can too. If you have a little laser pen light your good to go. Never look directly into the light as it will damage your eye and might cause you blindness. Rubber Band it to a lens connected to your camera and fake like your taking a picture and point it to a wall that is 50 feet away from you and observe the laser lights movement on the wall. If you don't have a laser light you can use the artificial horizon feature on the camera and while looking Thur the view finder you can use one of the cross marks to use as a sight . I look over the camera and not Thur the lens with the laser pen light. I also tape a paper plate to the wall and aim at that. I'm able to control the laser lights movement to within a 5 inch diameter circle or so for 30 seconds handheld, yet most of the concentration of light is about 3 inches with some spikes going out to 5 inches from center. I'm going to call this my Circle of control. So in math terms my ability to control my camera is within .48 of one degree (5 inches in diameter) movement at a distant of 50 feet. At 200 feet out my circle of control would be a 20 inch diameter circle of control. I know I'm good and steady to shoot handheld at a static objects at 50 feet with a shutter speed 1/60 second (no vr). So for me to get good results at 200 ft. I have to up my shutter speed by a factor of 4 which is 1/1000 sec. and then go one more to 1/1250. And while testing with the laser it is also important to judge how fast the laser light is moving on the target. If your light is bouncing around very fast you may need more shutter to counter. If its bouncing slower then you can get by with less. Do your laser test and night or indoors so you can see the laser light on the target. You might be amazed at how much you shake you have, as I know I was for me. I was like how can anything I shoot come out sharp. If your shooting great images hand held out to 200 feet rest assured your circle or control is good. I practice over and over with the laser light and have tried different stances to find the best position for me. How I hold my lens hand and where I put my elbow. I found if I put my left elbow tight against my body I get heartbeat bump and the laser moves around more. My circle of control is greatly affected by my heartbeat. A word of caution: Don't go outside and point the laser at anyone as it might hurt them or they might think your pointing a weapon at them. Find out what works best for you and your images will thank you for it. One more thing, static objects are not really static if your lens is bouncing around. I have also used the method of picking a target at 12.5 feet away and hand holding the camera and shoot the image with as slow as a shutter as possible and still achieve a sharp image and then you can double your length and double your shutter speed and so on and so forth. This is what works for me out to 200 feet, shooting at 200 mm with my Nikon 70-200 vr2. Knowing my limits has helped me greatly. I hope you find this useful. Don

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