Had it a week; poured over the manual, focusing on EXPOSURE basics...use in Manual mode, Aperature, Shutter speed etc. I want to know how to control the thing before I just let Auto do it's thing.
So, today, first time I was actually USING it when the chips were down...at my son's Special Olympics Snow Shoe event.
I was late, rushing, barely got to the finish line before he did and was in auto mode...The photos are under-exposed, probably due to the averaging light meter looking at overcast snow.
I recognized the problem, but could NOT change the exposure to spot or center weighted! Pushing the exposure method button near the shutter release does NOTHING. I've gone through every menu twice. Nikon ought to talk to Apple for a little UI advice!
Where the heck do you enable that button?
Thanks. I'll upload some of the dark photos soon for advice on how to fix 'em, but for now, I'd be happy to just figure this out.
To switch between Matrix, Centre-weighted and Spot Metering, you need to press the Metering button (behind and to the left of the Shutter Release) and at the same time rotate the rear Command Dial (the inset wheel just above your thumb on the rear of the camera).
You'll need to be in P, S, A or M mode to do this - in the Scene Modes you can't change the type of Metering.
Another approach when shooting a scene with a lot of snow is to apply a little +ve Exposure Compensation - check page 107 in the D7000 manual.
>Welcome > > >You'll need to be in P, S, A or M mode to do this - in the >Scene Modes you can't change the type of Metering. > >Another approach when shooting a scene with a lot of snow is >to apply a little +ve Exposure Compensation - check page 107 >in the D7000 manual.
Thanks. I was "behind the curve" on two accounts. Did not remember that metering changing can only be done in P,S,A or M. With a little more time (and confidence that I had learned those modes), I'd probably have done fine, except for #2: Not remembering the procedure to change the metering; still have my F4 controls on the brain.
With regard to the other comment on reading the manual: Done that and will continue to do that again and again; not too practical an idea though while shooting at the finish line of the race, though.
That's where familiarity with the hardware/software pays off, and sometimes, failing that, so can the intuitiveness of the interface.
Shooting in snowy environments is tricky, underexposure is very normal. Most people add +1-2 exposure by way of the method Brian suggested to get the exposure right. The meter wants to interpret all that white snow as grey.
1. Don't rely totally on the manual. Several 3rd party books are now available that go into better explanations and usage of the D7000. An excellent field guide was just released by Thom Hogan. Here's the link if you're interested.
Sat 12-Mar-11 12:42 PM | edited Sat 12-Mar-11 12:46 PM by shootersdesireIN
Nikon once you registered your camera there are links to videos that will guide you through the camera also learn your focus modes Auto, Auto3d is nice, Single but in single mode you can still have the 39 points at your disposal. This i prefer but i found auto 3d very helpful as well. You will have troubles focusing until you understand how metering & Focus work together...Use single mode for still photos U1 and Auto mode for anything that moves U2. Besides Thom Hogan Dictionary lol. Nikon D7000 Digital field guide by J. Dennis Thomas is available for 18.00. This you can pickup at any camera shop
Tue 15-Mar-11 09:51 AM | edited Tue 15-Mar-11 09:57 AM by visionguru
gregor1: "What are you bud, a nine year old? Apple blows away everything else, which is why you are so peevish about your selected OS!"
I'm sure I'm not the impressionable 9-year old Apple fanboy here.
Actually, I've been using Apple since 1983 and have done some work on technological and psychological aspects of computer user interface. I'm familiar with systems from main frame to embedded devices and all kinds of OSes. Among all the systems I have to use, Apple's mouse is the worst, that's one important UI for a window based OS.
You maybe wowed by iPad, iPhone's UI, frankly, that's the touch screen technology, not exactly "Apple UI". As long as Apple putting form ahead of function (like in their mouse and touch pad design), I'll repeat this "Apple UI sucks".
Sat 12-Mar-11 08:37 PM | edited Sat 12-Mar-11 08:38 PM by rfc143
I'm using Aperature. Here are a couple of shots. They are un-retouched jpegs from the NEF originals. I tried brightening the shadows, but it took on a very odd, irridescent look. Should I be trying something else? There's only about 5 million knobs and dials in the program!
Sat 12-Mar-11 09:23 PM | edited Sun 13-Mar-11 07:45 AM by briantilley
I just discovered that. I'll repost the question there and see if I can cut and paste the link to the photos. The input here has been great; if I can get some guidance specifically with Aperature, it'll be a home run. Thanks!
I used Topaz Adjust 4's 'Dramatic' preset (in Paint Shop Pro) to get these. I'm sure I could do better than this with the originals and a bit more time to adjust sliders rather than use a preset. This was a one-click fix, though.
What I like about these is that you didn't just brighten everything. Now, you can actually see some texture in the snow, but his face is still nicely illuminated. I need to learn what the "dramatic" effect in Paint Shop Pro does, then translate it to Aperature. Thanks!
Sun 13-Mar-11 05:54 PM | edited Sun 13-Mar-11 06:06 PM by greenwing
Topaz Adjust is a plugin for Photoshop that, conveniently, works with anything that will accept Photoshop plugins. In my case, Paint Shop Pro, and I know it works with both Aperture and iPhoto. I suggest you download it for a 30-day trial.
The easy bit is your settings were not right - if they were you would have got a better exposure. Matrix allows quite well for any snow in the picture area. Fortunately your images can "easily" be salvaged - including by using shadow protection in Nikon's NX2. "Easily" is relative. Correcting 3 or 4 pictures is OK but 50 or more takes time. As an F4 user you will know how important getting to know a camera before taking important shots can be. Digressing if you are coming straight from an F4 do not apply the exposure compensation in matrix that you did with film. The reason is matrix does a good job of working out and applying exposure compensation automatically.
Photography is a bit like archery. A technically better camera, lens or arrow may not hit the target as often as it could if the photographer or archer does not practice enough.
>As an F4 user you will know how important getting to know a >camera before taking important shots can be. >Digressing if you are coming straight from an F4 do not >apply the exposure compensation in matrix that you did with >film. The reason is matrix does a good job of working out and >applying exposure compensation automatically.
That's good to know about the difference between film and Digital. i've got a lot to learn (as in, everything all over again!) I looked at the metadata for these shots: Exposure Program: Unknown Metering Mode: Pattern Exposure: Auto Exposure
I don't even know what these are, except that I THOUGHT I was in full "Auto" on the camera. Does the data above support that I was?