I came across this youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rs57G4XTZVE after I suspected that my Nikon D7000 has a focus issue, but Im still till now not sure if I do have a focus issue or not since Im somehow new to DSLR and im not sure if maybe I'm doing something wrong so Im ending up having not so focused photos. What do you think about the Nikon Focus issue? Is it a fact or a Myth?
I will be definitely posting some samples but I doubt it to be soon, but in all cases, I will back to this thread once I want to post the samples. The reason for im not posting them anytime soon is that Im still not sure of what and how "I have" to take my photos and what to expect as an output. If you can give me examples (for how and what to shoot?) and then we take it from there?
hand held at 1/6 sec will likely have some camera shake, actually for that speed it looks pretty good
ISO-800, although not all that high, might get a bit fuzzy -- your meta-data did not indicate if this was a jpeg out of the camera, or how much noise reduction might have been applied -- that will soften it a bit too
If you want a good test of focus, you want it either on a tripod or sitting on a flag surface, add a shutter delay of a couple of seconds, turn off VR, try for a higher shutter speed, say 1/250 or something like that, or add flash, use an ISO around 200. Not see what you get.
Thanks quenton, I will take your points into consideration and see the actual results. By the way, mine was jpeg out of the camera. Im not sure about the noise reduction value, I believe it's off in the camera settings (but im not sure). I will take a look and update accordingly.
You have a few things working against you here. The shutter speed of 1/6 is too slow such that you will get motion blur from both your hands and the subjects. The aperture of f/3.5 is not really small enough to get both the front and back lines of people in focus.
The big problem is your AF settings. Focus Mode : AF-A AF Area Mode : Auto-area Phase Detect AF : On (39-point) Primary AF Point : C3 AF Points Used : B3,C3,C5,C8,D3,E1,E2
Here you let the camera pick what it thought was a nice focus target instead of you picking the faces. The camera really liked that chrome door handle on the truck (D3). Assuming I am correctly estimating the focus point locations on the picture.
---------+---------+---------+---------+---------+ Joseph K Seattle, WA, USA
>Here you let the camera pick what it thought was a nice focus >target instead of you picking the faces. The camera really >liked that chrome door handle on the truck (D3). Assuming I >am correctly estimating the focus point locations on the >picture.
Actually, the AF system did exactly what it was asked to do. Here's what ViewNX 2 shows as the active focus points:
That looks fine to me.
As others have noted, the 1/6-second shutter speed is the culprit. During that time the subjects were moving. It's just that simple. The VR did a good job of controlling camera shake, as evidenced by objects such as the truck in the near background.
In short, the D7000 and 18-105 actually did a marvelous job with this image. It's just that Georges was asking it to do something that caused his subjects to blur. The possible fixes for that would have been:
1) Setting ISO higher. Going from the 800 that was used to, say, ISO 3200, would have bumped the shutter speed to 1/25. Still not super fast, but probably OK for subjects who are semi-posing.
2) Using a faster lens. Of course, this was shot at 18mm, so the faster-lens options are limited. A change in perspective might have been needed, altering the shot.
3) Using flash. But that would have killed the background, totally changing the feel of the shot.
All of which only goes to prove that in a difficult lighting situation, you have to know how to maximize your camera's performance and then accept the result. But the AF system worked just fine.
"3) Using flash. But that would have killed the background, totally changing the feel of the shot."
I'm not so sure about that - especially if ISO 3200 (1600 would probably have worked) was selected. Put the camera in manual, expose for that white canopy in the background - possibly with -1 and flash in TTL? I probably would have dialed down the flash a stop as well. Would have prevented any motion blur and provided better white balance throughout the image. The subjects are far warmer than the background. At ISO 3200 and full matrix, TTL BL might have just done the job?
You can add some flash to the ambient, but you still have to make the ambient exposure work because you can't light up the distant background with the flash and wouldn't want to if you could. Any exposure that gets the background exposed with the ambient is going to also expose the subjects. Adding flash to that can't solve the subject motion problem.
I had two focusing issues with my d-7000. the first one was me.This camera is much better at showing me my flaws than my older camera.My second issue was my lens which I sent in and got re-chipped to work properly with my new camera.I'm still working on the first issue.
there is no problem to big or small that can't be fixed with brute strength and ignorance visit my gallery
I concur with micro. I've had my D7000 for a few months and the capabilities of the camera are greater than my personal abilities. The more I learn the camera, the better I understand this.
If some of your pictures are sharp and some are not, most likely it's not the camera or lens. If handheld, even a slight movement during the shot can lead to focus issues. I suggest using a tripod and external shutter release while testing.
I agree the problem is overstated and that the d7000 has excellent (auto) focussing abilities) however I did have a problem with mine, purchased in Feb 2013, in that intermittently auto focus would not work. I discovered the problem on a nikon training day - they do some excellent courses - which meant that the trainer and some very experienced camera users were able to check the usual suspect areas and confirm the existence of the problem. Significantly the problem was worse when long lenses were attached suggestion perhaps it was a lens connecting problem. The camera was sent back to Nikon for repair and returned to me with a note that the problem had been rectified. My advice would be to take you camera to a recognised camera shop or camera club and have some experienced users look at it. Then, if the problem is confirmed send it back to Nikon
I am amazed how "good" the image is. Very low light, very very slow shutter speed and a slow lens combine to make a night shot with ambient light that is almost impossible to get good results. First off, action hand held images are not going to look sharp with a D7000 slower than 1/125th of a second unless you have very steady holding technique. You needed more light and a shutter speed that fits the action. You have the built-in flash, but the people are probably too close to the flash to make it look good. I learned very quickly when changing from D90 12mpx to the D7000 that my hand holding technique needed to be upgraded and/or the shutter speed increased. Most of my hand held people shots with the D7000 are at least 1/90 but more often twice that speed, or use flash. Stan St Petersburg Russia