#1. "RE: Supermoon via the D7000" | In response to Reply # 0elec164 Nikonian since 15th Jan 2009Fri 28-Jun-13 10:18 PM
Nicely done Bob! Yeah the D7000 still holds its own.
In the north east we are pretty socked in with cloud cover lately, but late this past Sunday I had a small window of opportunity to get off this shot with my D7000 and a Bigma before the clouds moved back in.
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#2. "RE: Supermoon via the D7000" | In response to Reply # 1Fri 28-Jun-13 11:32 PM
Good shot, Pete.
I know what you mean by cloud cover. I had to sit and wait for 90 minutes to get that 10 minute break in cover. I was a bit disappointed: the moonrise had started as a deep red color, but continued to fade in saturation as it moved up and across the sky.
#3. "RE: Supermoon via the D7000" | In response to Reply # 0
Your moon shows up great.
I had great clear night and took photos too. Unfortunately, they were all way too overexposed. Even after adjustments, i can not get any moon details. (shot with 70-200 lens zoomed all the way in)
How do you set exposure properly for this?
D7000 plus more lenses than i know how to use -- new to photography with equipment inherited from my dad.
#4. "RE: Supermoon via the D7000" | In response to Reply # 3Leonard62 Nikonian since 15th Mar 2009Mon 01-Jul-13 05:41 PM
You have to realize that the moon is being illuminated by the sun. So the exposure will be like a sunlit day down here. If you use a meter you want to only meter the moon and not the whole frame because the meter will average the whole frame which is mostly black and way over expose. I use spot metering centering the center spot on the center of the moon.
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#5. "RE: Supermoon via the D7000" | In response to Reply # 3Mon 01-Jul-13 08:19 PM
Pretty much what Len said.
Then it's a question of knowing your equipment and your limitations.
So, this was shot with a 70-200 and 2x teleconverter for an effective focal length of 400mm. I know that I have to be lucky to handhold this combination at speeds below 1/400, but I've done it before.
I also know that, generally speaking, the sweet spot for optical performance of most lenses is around f8.
I want to keep ISO as low as possible - hopefully base ISO of 100. Otherwise, there's going to be noise.
So, I ended up having to go to ISO 200, which gave me a properly exposed spot meter reading at f/5.6 and 1/200th.
However, luck was not my friend that night, and try as I might, I was too shaky to get a good frame handheld.
So I broke out my big tripod. However, this was taken on the top of a hill within about 100 yards of a freeway. The stream of heavy truck traffic was causing my rig to vibrate. So, I really couldn't step down the aperture to that sweet spot, as that lowered my shutter speed to the point where there was some blur. Had I been really prepared, I would have had a sandbag to hang from the tripod's center column to steady it a bit.
I didn't have my remote release with me, so I used self-timer mode, that way I didn't have to have my hands on the camera when the exposure was made.
I hope that helps give you some ideas. I read in one of your posts that you're just getting started in this hobby. The thing I really love about getting the right image is that it's a puzzle: there's so many variables to think through and master, so much technique to learn, so many challenges to experience. It's really great fun.