Sat 16-Feb-13 10:57 AM | edited Sat 16-Feb-13 11:11 AM by Gamecocks
I may be mistaken but I believe there was a thread about this several months ago; basically said what you have experienced. You might can go to the search box located in the top right to see if you can find it. Good luck.
Found the thread as suggested above: ericbowles Nikonian since 25th Nov 2005 Thu 01-Dec-11 11:30 AM 6629 posts, Recommend member |Recommended by 55 #10. "RE: D7000 does not power off" In response to Reply # 9
Just to clarify for others, my power off issue occurred with and without the battery grip, with and without a lens, and both at the original time of the error and still continued an hour later when I got home.
To resolve the issue one of the following worked: -removing the battery and both memory cards -reseating the membory cards -replacing the same battery -reformatting both memory cards in camera
I'm not sure exactly which of these steps provided resolution but I am guessing it was reseating Card 1 card since it did not record any images from the shoot.
I was out shooting again this morning and had no problems.
Nobody should seek his own good, but the good of others. <><
Just last week I experienced the exact same situation that began as suddenly as it stopped malfunctioning and everything is fine now. But just as a precaution, thinking there was some dirty contact problem, I began proceedings to ship the camera to Nikon office for cleaning. When I read this post, I stopped sending the camera away for troubleshooting and cleaning.
I shut off the camera and remarked that it still looked like it was on with the top LCD fully illuminated as if it was on, showing no card in slot one when in fact, there were two good cards in slots. I repeatedly flipped the on/off switch and it still misbehaved. I then removed and replaced the battery, and it still was showing on, as above, when in fact it was switched off.
I then swapped the cards between the slots with the switch off (LCD is on!!) and still no change, #1 slot not appearing, just #2.
I then switched the camera off again and then on and everything was operating normally, with slots #1 and #2 showing and the LCD on and when I switched off again, the LCD wend off like normal.
I didn't any reformatting during this time, so I don't think it was a formatting issue. I'll wait until it happens again before I send it away this time.
I experienced the same problem. Top LCD on but camera was in reality off, nothing worked. I then noticed that the top LCD was indicating that the second memory card was highlighted although I was positive card #1 was empty. Could not access card one in the camera. Put card #1 in my card reader and formatted it in the computer then put it in the camera and it did recognize the card. Reformatted in the camera and no problems since. One shot problem. I'm assuming the card somehow became corrupted but the formatting in the computer somehow solved the problem.
Tom From Beautiful Smith Mountain Lake in Virginia
Sorry. I think I made that a bit misleading my comment...The display shows all the information when the camera is switched on and you are using it but what about when you switch it off. Does it show anything or also go off? Becasue that might draw a little bit from the battery. Is there a setting for this?
>SD cards has limited number of writes, each time you format >it, it takes a life away.
What, exactly, in technical terms, does this statement mean? If I've taken a life away, can you explain the rebirthing process?
Just kidding, but trying to make a point. The industry accepted figure of a 10 year lifespan for SD cards includes regular formatting. Unless you can somehow quantify your statement "take a life away", I don't think it's worth worrying about.
If you search for an article about FLASH memory from The IET (Institution of Engineering and Technology), you will get really useful information about your SD cards. I read it on a journal published by them a long time ago.
I found this on their website, which requires registration (free) and it mentioned the case of formatting your SD card ...
"It has a lot to do with how efficient the wear-levelling is and the write-amplification, which is how much NAND is actually written to." Write amplification occurs because Flash can only be erased in pages, so if you need to update a file, you may first have to move current data to a new page, erase the old page and then write the updated file all over again.
Wear-levelling is the process of evenly distributing usage across the chip, and it is needed because the way Flash works means that each cell can only stand a certain number of erase cycles before it begins to become unreliable. So the controller must not only re-map bad blocks, it must keep track of empty pages, pre-emptively erase stale pages for re-use once it starts to run out of new ones, and avoid creating usage hot-spots. Incidentally, when you rewrite a page, time and power are saved by not erasing the original immediately; instead it is marked 'stale', and the data written to a new page. This perforce creates opportunities for data filchers and forensic analysts alike.
All this, and Flash's lack of mechanical latency, will make it seem very odd stuff to anyone or anything that expects spinning disk - including operating systems and applications. For example, says Kaneshiro: "You don't need defragmentation or write optimisation - the drive actually works better fragmented! If you defrag, you are messing with the wear-levelling."
You do realize that this article is about SSD drives, which are not the same as SD Cards? The article even makes it painfully clear that within SSD drives, there are different engineering parameters for different applications (consumer v. enterprise v. heavy-duty 24x7 i/o intensive applications)?
Again - what data do you have specfically relating to your claim about SD Cards?
Sun 08-Sep-13 04:50 AM | edited Sun 08-Sep-13 05:05 AM by km6xz
Wear leveling is a concept used in SD cards but they conveniently failed to mention that stress testing reveals cell durability in the millions of cycles. You will wear out ten cameras trying to write millions of cells with your camera. Using an SD card as storage for an operating system where there are thousands of random accesses in seconds is another issue but it is not how cameras use memory. The article is referring to random access which does give uneven wear rates but a camera is more methodical writing to large blocks at a time, sequentially. You are reading way too much into this and it application to cameras. Stan St Petersburg Russia
>Open and shutting the lid of battery compartment too much >could cause damage and collecting dust too.
While that's probably true, it's pretty unlikely. The forums don't reveal many (any?) reports of failures from overuse of the battery door. I have cameras whose battery door has been opened on an almost daily basis for years with no ill effects. It's not something I would even consider when deciding how to manage my batteries.
>>Open and shutting the lid of battery compartment too >much >>could cause damage and collecting dust too. > >While that's probably true, it's pretty unlikely. The forums >don't reveal many (any?) reports of failures from overuse of >the battery door. I have cameras whose battery door has been >opened on an almost daily basis for years with no ill effects. >It's not something I would even consider when deciding how to >manage my batteries. > Totally agree with that.
Alkaline cells (AA batteries and the like) are susceptible to leakage, which is why manufacturers recommend leaving them out of the device when not in use. That doesn't apply to the Li-ion batteries used in Nikon DSLRs. I've never heard of one leaking.
But you probably should remove it once a month or so just to recharge the battery. The battery discharges slightly while in the camera both by self-discharge and because the camera is taking a very small amount of energy from the battery. In extreme cases, leaving the battery discharged may shorten battery life.
That said, I've left my EN-EL3 battery in my D70 for months on end without recharging it, and it's still working, almost nine years after I bought it.
Sun 24-Feb-13 03:02 PM | edited Sun 24-Feb-13 03:17 PM by hyphotographer
Lithium battery could burn and cause damage. Boeing DC-10 or 787 had some issues with their Lithium battery and crashed, causing hundreds of casualties, leading to order from FAA to ground all aircrafts of the same model.
I recently purchased a Promaster EN-EL15 (which I believe are rebadged Delkin's) and so far experience no issues and similar performance to Nikon brand.
Before that I used Promaster battery for my D80 which actually had a higher amp/hr rating then the Nikon with no issues. In fact the step-granddaughter is still using the Promaster battery some 7years later with the D80 I handed down to her.
You'll here a number of people caution against anything but a Nikon battery. Personally I have had no issue with the Promaster's, but I would be hesitant to order any unbranded batteries off of e-bay, for those are the ones you generally hear horror stories about.
Sun 08-Sep-13 05:01 AM | edited Sun 08-Sep-13 05:06 AM by km6xz
You know of course that every rechargeable Lithium battery has a circuit to disconnect the terminals when the charge lowers to about 10% due to the problem of polarity reversal if discharged fully.
We all know the battery recall a couple years ago, which involved an isolated batch of improperly manufactured batteries. They replaced them for anyone who had the battery lot number. There was a possible problem but in fact it did not materialize.
Posting out of context Google search results does not further any of these topics, you have made a number of misleading comments based I assume from not having direct experience with these topics. Google can be a source of as much misleading data as encountered anywhere when the overall subject is not understood and context is ignored. Stan St Petersburg Russia