Mon 22-Oct-12 12:34 AM | edited Mon 22-Oct-12 12:35 AM by dm1dave
Most likely the cameras matrix metering is judging that your subject (usually the area directly under your focus point) needs fill flash to be properly exposed. This will happen often with backlit or sidelit subjects or when your subject is in the shade and the background is lite with full sun.
If you want to stop the flash from popping up but still want the camera choose aperture and shutter speed use P (programed auto) mode.
In addition to what Dave wrote there is an Auto mode that suppresses the flash. Next to the Green Auto mode position is a small flash symbol and a crossed circle. That is full Auto just like the Green Auto mode but without automatic flash. It will not pop up the flash in that mode.
Try experimenting with full auto and let the flash pop up and compare. You might find that in strong backlight situations where the main subject is darker than the background, the added fill flash works beautifully in balancing the backlight exposure with main subject exposure. I use my flash in daylight much of the time. The subject does not notice the flash much since the ambient light has their eyes light adapted. You will find that the fill flash also producing a more pleasing fill compared to direct close flash in dark environments. The camera is very smart in figuring out how to balance ambient light with subject illumination. It works best within a reasonable distance, less than 15 feet or so unless the backlight is just barely brighter than the subject, in which case greater effective distance is possible. Stan St Petersburg Russia
Mon 22-Oct-12 08:29 AM | edited Mon 22-Oct-12 08:30 AM by starwarrior
The D7000 is an upgrade from my ol reliable D200 and so far I am really impressed. Thanks for the advice, I tried the non-flash automatic mode last night and it worked out just fine. Some realitively close pics were getting washed out with the flash and bouncing only works well if their is something close to bounce the light off of.(The main reason I spent twice the price for a 1.4 in lieu of the 1.8) It seemed logical if the 1.4 gathers twice the light I would not need to use the flash in lower light situations. This has to be true regardless however in outdoor shots the flash is evidently being determined from the main focus point which is great for fill flash (like you mentioned) but the camera does not take into consideration the amount of available light. Say for instance a bright day and a Pellican setting on a piling at the marina; great ambient light but to distant for the flash to be effective. Unfortunately in spur of the moment shots, you don't have much time to make adjustments. I guess the automatic mode has its own set of ambitguities and the reason why they have multiple automatic modes. In this case I can simply turn it off.(lol) On the good side, I don't use my SB-800 nearly as much since the internal flash automatically pops up. That sucker gets kind of heavy and it knocks the camera off balance. Again, thanks for your advice, it was helpful. (Great Camera)
Using lenses that send distance information the flash does calculate subject distance, versus ambient for a crude BL mode but for TTL BL to really "shine", the intelligence built into the later SB series flashes is remarkable. By leaving the D7000 and shoe mounted SB900/700/910 flash in TTL BL mode not only does it work well for Balanced ambient and subject exposure but for none fill or balancing scenes. The D800 does not work the same way as my D7000 which can be left in BL mode for all sorts of ambient conditions. Each new model seems to work with flash, with Auto ISO and metering a little differently so it takes some playing to grasp the differences. Stan St Petersburg Russia
I am personally annoyed by this situation. I shoot in aperture priority, but I frequently get the flashing light telling me I need flash, even in bright daylight. I now just ignore it, but it is ridiculous.
Mike, it is telling you some useful information. Even if you do not want to use flash for fill and balance, you can note it and reposition your shooting angle or the subject so the subject is not having strong shadows in the exposure calculation. If the imbalance if due to strong backlight, just take a few steps to the side or even get on the opposite side of the subject so there is stronger subject illumination and the flash indicator will turn off, and your subject will have better exposure in relation to the overall scene.
>>I am personally annoyed by this situation. >> >>I now just ignore it, but it is ridiculous. > >If you find it annoying and never use it as a heeded warning, >then why not just turn Custom Setting D12 to off? > >Pete >
LOL. The reason is: that I didn't know that D12 would fix this! LOL
Thanks, Pete. A little surprised by this. I bought Thom Hogan's book and spent a lot of time configuring the settings. I can only guess that when I set it up it was a setting that I wanted on. And it was probably many months later, long after I'd forgotten that setting, before I ran into the issue.
Pete has, once again for me, proven the value of a Nikonians membership.