You can't get there instantly, but you don't have to actually click 4 or more times. You can just press and hold the zoom button and it will continue zooming in until you get to the level you want. 6 steps is supposed to be 100%. It would be nice to program it to go instantly to a specific zoom level, but I don't feel stifled with it as is.
Here's the response I got from Nikon Tech. Support 08/30/2011:
It is known in the digital industry to review the images on your computer monitor at 100%. Although there is no specific information as of what is 100% on the playback of the camera, I believe that it is at 4 clicks on the zoom button while on playback.
>Here's the response I got from Nikon Tech. Support >08/30/2011: > >I believe that it is at 4 clicks on the zoom button while on >playback. >
Actually I believe Chris is more on point with 6 clicks (assuming a full resolution image) than the Nikon Tech was with 4.
Some time ago there was a good discusion about this here which prompted me to count pixels.
Having posted that, I personally would not delete an image based upon perceived softness while zooming in on playback. It depends upon your intended use for the shot. Remember that perceived sharpness is dependent upon the amount of enlargement and viewing distance. The average person will view the rear LCD screen most likely at the closest viewing distance possible (for my tired old eyes with my cheaters on thats about 12 inches). So again, assuming a full resolution images, actual pixel view is akin to looking at a 11x17 inch print at the same distance you would a 4x6 print. At that distance you will see flaws in the technique that you would not notice at the so-called normal viewing distances for a given sized print.
Of course YMMV always applies with perceived sharpness.
The operative word in your post was "yet." You may not be there yet, but if you keep plugging away at it you will be eventually. Probably sooner than you would expect. Keep pushing that shutter release!
I rarely check the photo I just took on the camera monitor, and if I do it is to review the histogram for exposure. Once you trust your skills and equipment you should ween yourself off this practice.
Life goes on around you and you are missing the good shots with your nose plastered to the monitor. If you are taking portraits, the constant interruptions get in the way of developing a good relationship with your subject. Just think how many potentially great spontaneous shots you miss out on because of this.
Learn to work the camera, then trust your skills and concentrate on seeing and working in the present.
Other than an initial check when changing lighting conditions and modes to make sure something was not set correctly, the more I shoot with digital the less I bother with the screen. Since moving to the D800 and shooting a lot less with the D7000, I go whole event sessions of hundreds of frames with only looking at the screen when someone wants to see themselves. When I first got the D7000 I looked more often because I needed to learn how it handled different situations. For those who wear glasses it is much more convenient not to depend on the display by just setting the VF diopter to sharpest display without glasses and leave the glasses off. Switching back and forth is a pain. Having glasses on while using the VF also can make metering less reliable. Stan St Petersburg Russia
> For those >who wear glasses it is much more convenient not to depend on >the display by just setting the VF diopter to sharpest display >without glasses and leave the glasses off. Switching back and >forth is a pain.
My 48 year old eyes are still razor sharp for distance vision, but I can't see up close at all without my reading glasses. I love the way I can dial in the diopter on the viewfinder and not need glasses.
If I have a technique, it goes something like this: Based on the situation, I'll take a guess at how I think I should set the camera. Most times I'm in aperture-priority mode, some times I'm in manual, some times I'm using a Speedlight for fill. Whatever I'm doing, I'll take a couple of test shots, put on my clunky and inconvenient reading glasses, and check the exposure by looking at the histogram. I make whatever adjustments I need, re-test as needed. Once I think I'm where I need to be, I take the readers off and don't bother looking at the display again.
If the purpose of zooming in is to check sharpness, I have to ask "why would sharpness be off?" What creates sharpness? The right lens. The right aperture. The right shutter speed. The right technique. The right focus-point. Do those things right and you'll get he sharpness you need. If you are shooting something relatively static such as a portrait, I use single-point focus, put it on the eye of the subject closest to me, and trust the camera. If you are shooting something that is moving fast, all you can do is use one of the dynamic focusing modes and trust to luck that the camera picks up the right focus point. That's one of those cases where it might be tempting to look to see what you are getting, but at the expense of missing potential action while you do so.
Sun 12-Aug-12 06:54 PM | edited Mon 13-Aug-12 01:45 AM by cwils02
>> For those >>who wear glasses it is much more convenient not to depend on >>the display by just setting the VF diopter to sharpest display >>without glasses and leave the glasses off. Switching back and >>forth is a pain.
How about my 72 yr old eyes with cataracts? This problem is why I wish that Nikon would consider comaparable cameras utilizing the same glass as the DSLR with Electronic Viewfinders. Don't check photos often, but when I need to, it is a real pain.... Glasses off, glasses on, glasses off, etc.