I have the same camera and I can tell you that don't be afraid to bump the iso to 6400. The D7K is very capable at that setting. I would suggest checking you settings and adding some software i.e. Noice Ninja and/or LR4. As for which lens to use, I would recommend in addition to your 50mm:
I like the combination of an 35mm f/1.8g & 85mm f/1.8g primes for low light shots. However, if you consider this combination I would drop the 50mm f/1.8. Finally, I recommend shooting in RAW if your not doing so already.
Although some may frown upon this but turning you High iso on to normal will help as well. However, it may slow down your buffer but nothing significant. I would also trying dialing in -0.7 to 1.0 exposure as well.
In a high-ISO environment, dialing in a negative EV compensation would be a bad idea since the noise would get exaggerated due to the underexposing. If anything, dial in a +0.3 EV to help with the high-ISO noise.
---------+---------+---------+---------+ Joseph K Seattle, WA, USA
My Flash is a SB700. The BLDG is a boat and the ceilings are low.
I will bring my flash and tripod, although space will be cramped on board. I think I might try off camera flash to avoid flash backs. I have a remote so I could stand by the camera and hold the flash and remote.
My daughter is going to be second camera. She plans to rent a lens.
Concerning Noise. Does ADL add noise? I noticed that the camera came from the factory with ADL Off.
I've been very happy with the quality of high-ISO exposure as long as my picture wasn't under-exposed. I might echo those who suggest you dial in a little big of over-exposure.
I don't use Auto-ISO. I have my camera set so I can see the ISO in the viewfinder, and then, set on aperture priority, adjust my ISO with the rear dial for each shut as needed to go with the aperture I want and to get the shutter speed I need.
If these are not just snap shots but to be printed large for the book or frames, concentrate on getting your lighting in order ans keep the ISO as low as possible. High ISO via NR will reduce detail and tone range. Rent a herd of SB800 or SB900s and practice with Nikon's wonderful CLS wireless iTTL. Position flash units in good bounce locations that will still prevent direct reflections in the frame as much as possible. How large of an area is needed to be covered in any one shot? How close are you going to work with the main ceremony, the closer the better for reducing chance flash reflections from the glass walls. If you are going to rent lenses, the 24-70 and 70-200 are all you need, unless you want a fast prime for some narrow DOF images where a 85 1.4 or something a little wider on DX, like a 50 1.4G or Sigma 50 1.4 which has good bokeh for a 50. The lower the ISO the more flexibility you will have in post. Stan St Petersburg Russia
Sun 13-May-12 11:19 PM | edited Sun 13-May-12 11:32 PM by Vlad_IT
For a paid wedding job ISO 400 should be the highest to use with D7000. Go through the speedlight forum i recall reading about similar situation. Setting 4 flashes in each corner as high as poible with 4 LighSphere will reduce the reflection. Also put your on-camera flash on high flash brackets. Will watch this thread for more suggestions.
As a former wedding photographer, I can assure you that a very high percentage of professional wedding photographers use ISO higher than 400 and that is why they buy cameras with high ISO performance.
I personally would use whatever I needed to get the shot. When you are in a church where no flash is allowed during the ceremony, getting the ceremony captured is most important, and I would have no hesitation in using the D7000 at 3200, but I would be certain I didn't under-expose.
I shoot weddings with the D7000. I use the kit lens most of the time, but also carry my old 50MM 1.8 AI for low light and the Vivitar Series 1 70-210MM 2.8-4.0 (MF) for the long shots. The 50MM really helps in dark churches and dark receptions. I recently added a $37 160 LED panel to my kit. It has a knob to adjust the light level. It is very handy in dark places. Clergymen don't object once I demonstrate it. Just a little added steady light really brings up the shutter speeds, and allows me to keep the ISO down. I like to use it on a stand at weddings and on the camera at receptions. You can see it here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TJ6JH6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02
Recommendations for pictures on the boat - 14-24mm f/2.8 and a 35mm f/1.4.
I do not use auto ISO on the D7000, the results to not meet my expectations and allows too many variations. ISO will depend on outside light. I'd start at 400 at 4 in the afternoon and move to 1600 as natural light diminishes. Use 3200 when needed.
Use your speedlight - use TTL-BL and learn about it before the wedding. Drag the shutter to get some ambient light. Use the wide angle diffuser, rear curtain sync, shoot as slow as 1/30, the flash will stop the action. Know how to adjust your Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) and the camera Exposure Compensation (EC) and ISO with having to remove your eye from the viewfinder. Use FEC to control lighting on the subject and EC to adjust both ambient and subject lighting.
Get a mix of ambient light shots along with the flash exposures.
Setting up speedlights to bounce in the room to raise light levels can be very problematic on boats. The glass windows are your friends, you can bounce off of them if needed. Use the reflections as well as the view through the windows.
Tue 29-May-12 12:39 AM | edited Tue 29-May-12 12:42 AM by mdallie
I'm just re-reading this. I mis-read earlier and didn't answer the right question.
You really need to use a flash. You need to manually set your camera for the light coming through the windows and use your flash to fill on the subjects. If you don't do this, either your bride and groom will be under-exposed, or your windows will look blown out.
I'm attaching a file (hope I did this right....first time trying to do this) of a wedding I took a few years ago. This country club had albums that other photographers shot that were terrible. Either the windows were totally white (blown out) or the shades were shut. They didn't know how to shoot.
I got to this wedding early, metered for the outside, put on my flash to fill for the inside, and it was great! (yes, I see the flash next to the minister....thought I bounced these shots, but maybe I goofed on this one. Bounce off the ceiling and that shouldn't happen).
I agree with Mike - you definitely need to use a flash even indoors with glass walls. I shot a similar event this past weekend - a large room with a medium height ceiling and glass walls on three sides. Without a flash, faces were far too dark. If I exposed for the faces, the outside scene was blown out. With flash, I was able to balance the light outside with the light inside and use enough flash to nicely light the people.
With lots of glass, you do need to pay attention to glass behind your subject and shoot at an angle to the glass. If you can't shoot at an angle, you need to be able to position the flash(es) off camera so reflections are not a problem.
One caveat about indoor event with with daylight - you can get some real problems with color temperature. My event had incandescent light inside, flash on the camera, and daylight outside.