Sat 07-Apr-12 01:19 PM | edited Sat 07-Apr-12 01:36 PM by BillS52
I think the settings were the same.
I googled Exposure Issues with Nikon D7000 and found a few complaints. But you can google almost ANY camera and find complaints.....
I found this on the DPR forum, and they seem to help.
1- Set picture control to neutral 2- Set sharpness to +5 3-set contrast to +1 4- Set saturation to +1 5- Adjust EC master compensation to -0.5EC 6- Set ADL to Normal 7- Set auto iso to -> min ss 1/125 and max iso to 3200 8- Set High iso NR to normal 9- Focus -> default settings 10- P mode 11- Save as U2 -> keep U1 for your own settings
Here's what I got with these settings. A little dark because I used -0.7EV
In your first post, shots taken minutes apart outside the lighting could have changed. But also exp is different on a lot of cameras do to different meters. I would have look up specs but it could be because of different meters.
Just double check that you used same meter method and same exp. Or that you have the exp bar in your view finder neutral with zero exp comp and zero master exp comp on both cameras and take a photo as close in time as you can.
Are you shooting direct to jpg? If so, remember that each camera is doing internal raw processing according to all the various internal settings. Which is to say, you may be seeing differences in the conversion settings, not differences in exposure.
Shoot test images in RAW mode, then process them identically in post. Only then will you isolate the exposure.
Open up a blank page on your computer display, like a blank word processor page or web browser. Increase brightness. Alternately, you could use any brightly and evenly lighted white or light toned wall, card, board, etc. I like to use the computer display because it's always available.
Set camera or lens to manual focus. Set focus to any far distance.
Sitting in front of the display, aim the camera at the display just a few inches away. You should see nothing but white.
Half press the shutter to activate the meter. Use the front command dial to set an aperture of about f/4. Turn the main (rear) command dial to adjust the shutter speed until the exposure meter is *exactly* centered. Take a shot.
View the image in the LCD display. It will appear medium gray, as it should. Press the multi selector down until the histogram is displayed.
I'm guessing you'll see a very thin and tall spike right in the center of the histogram. If it's *slightly* to the right or left, close enough.
If the spike is not in the center, report back and we'll talk.
Sat 07-Apr-12 09:20 PM | edited Sat 07-Apr-12 09:21 PM by BillS52
OK. I will do.
By the way, I did shoot both RAW and JPEG on my last test shot, and the RAW is better too. Something in the settings I found on the DPR forum is helping both my RAW and JPEG files. Might be ADL.... Anyway, give me some time to run your test.
Sun 08-Apr-12 11:12 AM | edited Sun 08-Apr-12 11:13 AM by elec164
>I have tried several lenses, and the 85 is the only one that >is off on the histogram. What could be wrong with the lens?
I recall reading that the f-numbers as applied to lenses are approximations not exact sized openings. Also that the stop down mechanism has a bit of play and will not always close the diaphragm down exactly each time at a given setting. So slight variations in exposure can be a result.
Perhaps a good insight into what is transpiring could be garnered by reading through Thom Hogans review of the D7000 and the D5100 ; in particular the sections on metering and image quality.
As to metering, nulling of the camera meter pointed at a well illuminated solid color surface in general should create a histogram with a spike just left of center. A good read on this is also provided by Thom Hogan in his article Meters Don\'t See 18% Gray. As already noted, severe vignetting and noise will create a trail off instead of a distinct spike.
In your example, I would think that the scene should in general be well exposed using matrix metering being that the preponderance of green vegetation has a reflectacne value of about what the meter is calibrated for. On the other hand if you used spot metering with the focus point on the flower, you most likely would have had a slight under exposure and would have to add some plus EC to render it properly.
Sat 07-Apr-12 11:10 PM | edited Sat 07-Apr-12 11:12 PM by kentak
I'm happy to help. I was pretty sure your angst over the exposure issue was misplaced. Sending a camera in for repair is generally best left as a last resort after all other possibilities have been thoroughly explored by orderly and proper testing to confirm that there is really an issue.
It's just a statistical fact that many "issues" are due to user error related to less-than-optimal settings or technique. It's part of the learning process, and we've all been there--especially with new equipment.
I really don't have any insight into the specific cause of the "bad" image.
Sat 07-Apr-12 11:30 PM | edited Sun 08-Apr-12 12:38 AM by kentak
I looked a little closer and see that the main peak is slightly to the right of center. I don't see that as a concern necessarily. I'd like to see you get an image with a symmetrical peak before we come to any conclusions about the meter.
BTW, here is one of my typical test results. Notice it's slightly to the left. That represents a small fraction of one stop, and of no practical significance, IMO. However, it is possible to fine tune the exposure to be "dead on" if one wishes by using menu setting b5.
ADL is - Active D-Lighting, ........or in my case Age Attention Deficient Disorder I noticed my D7000 came factory set to OFF. I sometimes wonder if Nikon ships these units configured with First Best Settings. I could be wrong.
Today I'm going to use my camera, so we'll see what happens.