>Just one more reason to not buy the 3rd party grip...
FYI : Not all 3rd party grips are the same quality and just like the video and others on here always describe, 3rd party grip seems to be the brand name around here. No one says which brand they have, they just bash one, like they are all the same.
I'm not bashing 3rd party grips, I'm recounting my experience with a Neewer grip I purchased that broke almost immediately and I returned it. There is a serious design flaw in the latch that is not present in the Nikon version. From the close up photos I have seen from several different brands they all seem to have the same flawed design. I believe that they all have the same issue with the dials operating backwards from the Nikon version as well. I certainly could be wrong on this as I have not personally examined every possible 3rd party grip.
What evidence do you have that makes you say that there are different quality grips and which one do you count as superior?
Sat 07-Jan-12 01:35 PM | edited Sat 07-Jan-12 01:36 PM by km6xz
One should consider how rough they are with mechanical things before deciding if a $40 or $250 grip is better for them. I notice that people who have problems with one item..car, washing machine, shoes laces, anything seem to have problems with a lot of things that are rare for other people. For example has someone ever broken a transmission or garbage disposal? There is a difference between wear and tear and breakage but wear and tear is correctable before failure with preventative maintenance. I suspect why I have not had one major thing fail on cars, electronics, appliances that was directly related to wear and design life being exceeded is the same reason I have no problems with $40 grip, they just work, if they did not or had some developing problem I would just fix it before something broke. Statistics have shown that accidents of all types are proportionally concentrated in a group that has the most accidents rather than random distribution. Actually I did have a SB900 fail but took it apart and found a surface mount bypass cap has shorted on the logic board and replaced it but that is not breakage and it took longer to take it apart than to fix it. My wife, ex-wife, managed to break everything, her car, her ankle, telephone, her favorite chair etc, every week there was something. She did not seem rough on things, and was tiny, 105lbs/5'5" but she had no concept of what pressure was appropriate on things like knobs, levers, etc and could not visualize the responses to physical stimulus of a mechanical system. I should have been the one who broke things, I was constantly repairing things for neighbors and acquaintances, building things, restoring Italian GTs and airplanes.
So before buying a lighter weight item consider if there is a history of broken items in your life. Stan St Petersburg Russia
I got a grip of $40, it was good. I immediately found that the concept was correct. I also saw that I was going to break it. So I sold it and bought a $210 one from Nikon. Everybody happy. (Maybe the branch is not important, maybe all third party have the same source)
Right on, thanks. One good thing this discussion has done is to raise awareness of this potential problem. I know I am treating mine with kid gloves now. A bit of advice here too. When you remove the tray, take a moment and fold down the little handle so as not to hit it against something and break it. Prevention is a lot cheaper than replacement. Thanks everyone.
Sun 08-Jan-12 04:39 PM | edited Tue 10-Jan-12 10:44 AM by gorilla_skater
I've have a 3rd party grip for about 2 months and I have experience the broken latch and less than perfect fit. The rubber where my pinky rests is peeling as well.
The latch is incredibly frail. I was very careful most of the time. I made it a point to just use it to unlatch, then grab the battery holder from the side.
ONE time I forgot and unlatched, and pulled it out by the latch and then held it while it supporting the weight of the tray and the battery, then it just broke in my hand.
I primarily use the tray for the oem battery, so with the info in this video, I might switch the latches, or at least figure out a way to attach something so I don't have to use a tool of some sort to get it open.
With all of that, I would still buy another one vs. the OEM. The known issues aren't worth the extra $230 to me...