If your camera is still at the default settings the function button on the front of the body is used to set the bracketing function you want. Hold in the function button and turn the main command dial. Turn it one click left to show -2 on the top control panel. This indicates that it will shoot one frame at metered exposure and one frame at one stop under. The sub command dial is used to set the exposure compensation to 1/3, 2/3, 1 stop increments while the main command dial is used to set how many frames you want to shoot in the bracketing sequence. Up to a 9 frame sequence. Very useful for HDR shots. This is a sequence so remember to keep your finger on the trigger to complete it. If you hold the shutter button down it will only complete the exposure sequence you have dialed-in. If you set it at 2 frames, (metered & -1 stop), you will only get two frames. Hope this helps.
To my knowledge the is not possible with the exception of doing it manual. The auto bracketing increments sequence only adjusts exposures by up to a one stop over or under metered exposure. You could try setting it at 5 frames, -2, -1, 0, +1, +2, but then you will have three frames that you don't want but this might be your best method to achieve your goal. Why do you only wish two frames? Digital files are easily deleted. I know, I delete lots!!
Fri 12-Sep-08 01:01 AM | edited Fri 12-Sep-08 01:03 AM by PaulBennett
Is 400 milliseconds really too long between first and last of 3 pictures sequence? Curious what the moving subject is or are you taking from a moving vehicle? Also realize you have some post process exposure adjustment available to extend the bracketing ev 1.0 and cut the time to 200 ms (7fps) between 2 pictures. Or use a doable 7fps for 140ms.
>Is 400 milliseconds really too long between first and last of >3 pictures sequence? Curious what the moving subject is or >are you taking from a moving vehicle? It all depends on the subject of course : sometimes 400 ms is sufficient, sometimes it isn't... It also depends on the shutter speed : sometimes you're able to shoot at 5 fps, sometimes you're happy if you're able to have 2 fps ; and in this last case, the less frames you have to shoot to reach the offset of 2 or 3 IL, the better.
>Also realize you have some post process exposure adjustment available to extend the >bracketing ev 1.0 Yes, and I'm already using this when I only have 1 file, or when I don't need to push the process too far. But having a wider range is simply more comfortable
Anyway, thank you for your answer Paul. I understand now that I have to deal with the "-3F" mode.
Since this is your first Nikon, you wouldn't know that bracketing has not always worked this way. As I recall, earlier models did allow a -2 and 0 bracketing sequence. In fact the D200 had a dedicated bracket button (rather than having to program one of the front buttons).
So your question was very reasonable and reveals a need many of us still feel. I think most of us would agree that, given the exposure tuning capabilities of RAW converters, 2 stop bracketing would be much more useful than 1/3 or 1/2 stop bracketing. In fact, it seems a simple firmware upgrade could give us all the flexibility we need in programming bracketing sequences. Are you listening Nikon?