My much loved D700 body is coming apart! It first came 'unstuck' near the FX badge - now a couple of other rubber panels coming unstuck.. Is this a hazard for the camera's innards? I live in the country - a long way from Nikon repairers.. is any glue recommended? Has anyone else had similar troubles? My feeling is this shouldn't be happening! Thanks in anticipation for your advice.
Where do you get the glue? I have looked and can not find
any.Please post the link or web page where you purchased the
glue so we all can take advantage of this product and fix all
of our problems...
Looks like Nikon still hasn't figured out how to keep rubber on their cameras. The problem also happened on the N-90 back. Back then if you called Nikon and gave them the serial number of the camera they overnighted a new back. My new back held up until I sold it this year. A quick question. How long have you owned the camera with the peeling rubber? My D-700 is just a year old and everything looks fine. Thanks.
>How long have you >owned the camera with the peeling rubber? My D-700 is just a >year old and everything looks fine. Thanks.
I don't think "time" is a culprit but heat is. I have had Nikon DSLRs (D1h, D2h, D2x) since 2003 and have had this problem with one camera but since it had to go into repair anyway they replace the rubber for free. Actually they take the rubber off for most repairs anyway so you get new rubber.
I feel that the cause and affect was camera in a hot car during the summer even for shot periods of time. The car will becomes an oven quickly. The glue gets soft and then handling will cause rubber to move back and forth loosening the bond even more. I have since been VERY careful not to leave camera bodies in cars during the summer for any length of time and I have not had any problems since.
This hasn't happened to my D700, but it has happened to a couple other Nikon's I've had, the last one my F5. Nikon suggested I use a flexible contact cement, such as Tristan's suggestion, at the time. It worked perfectly.
Nikon also confirmed it was the heat. I used to leave my F5 in the car locked up all the time. After I fixed the camera, I decided to do an experiment. I had a car, at the time, with a black interior (hopefully never again). It was an 85°F day that afternoon. After sitting in the sun for a few hours I looked at a thermometer I left in the car. It showed the inside of the car had heated up to 140°F. I've never again left a camera in my car unprotected.
These days, since I have an SUV and can't put my equipment in a trunk where it's cooler, I put my camera equipment in a cooler. I also put reflectors in the windows to keep the sun from pouring into the car's interior at the windshield and front door windows. The other windows are heavily tinted.
I used "pliobond" Industrial Contact Cement. This adhesive is specifically formulated for bonding flexible materials like leather, rubber, canvas to metals etc. I got it from Amazon. Works like a charm. Maybe I should send a sample to Nikon...
I'm happy to hear you friend is okay, but, the bottle should have said it's extremely flammable on the label in red, and as you've found, it is.
According to the product's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) the flash point of the product is 23ºF (-5.00°C) using the standard Tag Open Cup method. Part of the solvent which is drying out as the Pliobond sets is Methyl Ethyl Ketone so the low flash point isn't surprising.
(It's not the scientific definition, but for you non-chemists and non-chemical engineers, the flashpoint it is the minimum temperature at which a liquid produces enough of a concentration of vapor above it that the vapor will ignite in the air.)
So if you get an ignition source around the vapor which is coming from the product, either directly from the bottle, or from the product as it dries, where the temp of the product is 23ºF or higher, it's going to burst into flame.
Actually Pliobond is an eye and skin irritant too. I only use the stuff in a location with ventilation.
I've seen it in a tube, though I've used it from a small bottle, as I've found it useful for a number of things.
The tube comes with a warning like the bottle though, at least the one in the local hardware store here does.
You described the typical "flash" you get, when you get to the flash point of the vapor. I'm a chemical engineer, among other things, and know well what happens at the flash point.
People need to take the information about these substances very seriously. The labels which talk about high flammability or that a substance is an eye, skin or respiratory irritant, aren't there merely to save the company's butt in case something strange happens. Those warnings are real.
I also have a D700 where the rubber panel on the back is still in place but is starting to lift on the right hand side. I have purchased a one-oz. tube of Pliobond. I note that this product is a contact adhesive where adhesive is normally applied to the two mating surfaces and allowed to dry completely. Then a second coat is applied to one surface and after it becomes tacky the two mating surfaces are pressed together to achieve the bond. This would be OK if you wanted to bond a new panel to the camera, but what if you want merely to stick down the rubber panel that has only partially lifted from the back of the camera?
Please supply details on how you got Pliobond to work for you. Hopefully a less complicated procedure than that shown on the Pliobond package will do the job.
You all seem to take this very calmly. I dont have the problem and I live in Malta where ambients have been very high for the last five months or so and my D200 or 700 is often in the car. I would be very upset if one of them (so called pro cameras started falling apart) Surely it shouldnt be occuring. Is there a case of being so brand loyal that this sort of thing is passed over. I have a Casio compact (initial cost about 80 pounds sterling)that lives in the car,where temperatures this year have been up to 100F, it has also been run over by a car, straightened in a vice yet still looks like new and performs perfectly.
These cameras are not intended to handle the heat of a closed car (no open windows), parked, and left in the hot sun of summer all day, where the temperatures can easily exceed 120°F to 140°F, nor are their rubberized exteriors, which under than kind of heat can loosen from the camera body.
This is not a Nikon only phenomenon. The same thing happens to Canon DSLRs and other brands as well, if cameras are permitted to exceed the ambient conditions for which they are designed.
In addition, even when the cameras are used within their specifications, sometimes the glue dries out. I think we've taken it calmly because it's a well known problem for many brands, and easy for anyone to repair.
Please note my information request re use of Pliobond. It's reply #22 dated yesterday. I still need a "glue clue" from somebody who has actually used Pliobond successfully in sticking back down a partially lifted rubber panel on the back of a D700.
Bob, clearly you can't use the exact instructions with the Pliobond, since you don't want to fully remove a partially lifted rubber panel.
What I've done in similar circumstances is using a very small brush lightly coat the camera and the panel where it is lifted. I insert a couple of long but thin brads (nails without a head) to keep a gap while the Pliobond's solvent evaporates. I periodically move the brads so they won't get stuck. I would generalize that the solvent, in the amount of Pliobond you will likely use should evaporate within 5 to 10 minutes, but you'll have to judge that. Once evaporated, remove the brads and press the panel to the camera all over the formerly loose area from the center of the area out to the edges to get a smooth finish. Let it set for at least a few hours before using the camera, after you press the panel down.
Remember to only use Pliobond in a well ventilated area, and away from any heat sources. Store the Pliobond in a cool dry place away from any heat sources of any kind.
Thanks for the detailed reply. Am glad to have input from somebody who has already successfully performed the glueing operation. It might prevent from me from messing up the job! Inserting and then removing brads looks like the trickiest part of the procedure.
I've had a D200 for a longer time than the D700 without experiencing any such problem with the D200. It makes me wonder if Nikon is using a different adhesive than before. I can't think of a time when I have stored either camera under abnormally high temperature conditions.
I noted in one of your recent posts that you are a chemical engineer. I also have a chem engineering degree--from Northwestern University which had an engineering co-op plan whereby after five years you ended up with a B.S. degree plus 1-1/2 years experience in industry. As students we used to jokingly refer to ourselves as comical engineers or plumbers. I still have the slide rule I carried with me through all five years. An historical artifact like that really dates me!
I used to work as a Chem Eng., but moved on many years ago, though I have kept up. I went to Carnegie Institute of Technology (now Carnegie-Mellon University). I still have my slide rule and we referred to ourselves as plumbers too.