Sun 19-Jul-09 01:14 AM | edited Sun 19-Jul-09 01:16 AM by hey_scriv
Hoping someone is around who is experienced in shooting at a large aquarium. I am going tomorrow to hopefully shoot the jellyfish. I have a homework assignment on backlighting and am hoping to capture their translucency. I have several lenses in mind... NIkkor 24-701:2/8G ED, 50mm AFD 1.4, or my Nikkor 105 mm VR.
If I place the len hood up to the glass to prevent camera shake, does this also allow for more DOF if needed? I am not planning on taking a tripod or monopod as there will probably be a gazillion wee ones running around.
Cathy leave your tripod and monopod at home as they will not let you use it. Take your fast lenses. Yes you want to put your lens hood righr up against the glass, but not to increase depth of field, as only stopping down the lens can do that, but to reduce the chance of reflections. Use High ISO;s to keep your shutter speed up. Before I got my D700 I took pictures at the Montery Bay Aqarium with a D200 and used a 12-24 f/4 and a 35-70 f/2.8. The pictures are in my gallery. It was one of the reasons I decided to buy the D700, because the light is low and without high ISo you will be hand holding at very low shutter speeds.
Leave the 24-70 at home. Bring only your fastest lenses - 50mm f/1.4 - and your 105mm VR f/2.8. To combat reflections, bring a circular polarizer for each lens and use them when necessary. Use shutter priority mode to freeze subject motion and let your ISO automatically wander up to 6400 (in other words, don't use a fixed ISO setting).
A lens hood can be useful for getting close to the glass. Careful though, because aquarium glass actually moves/vibrates when dozens of kids are leaning on it, pounding on it, and speaking excitedly. The vibration, in some shots, can mess up your focus.
The plane of the sensor should be parallel to the glass to avoid refraction. Shoot parallel and close to the glass to eliminate your own reflection. If you can't get rid of a reflection when shooting from a certain position, attach a circular polarizer and rotate the ring just enough to kill as much of the reflection as possible.
Some aquarium shooters use manual focus because, with some cameras, autofocus can be unreliable because of seaweed and the wrong little fish being picked up by autofocus. The nice thing about your 105mm VR is that you can flip the VR into Active mode in order to more successfully pan with a subject while maintaining a focus lock.
This is prob. too late. I went there when I first got my D700 and did not know how great the high ISO capability is. I had trouble with the low light in the jellyfish area. I was using the 28-70mm lens. The idea of using man. focus is a good one. most lenses try to focus on the glass. Hope you had a good day there. Whatch out in the Laurakeet display. Some bite!One fell in love with my D700 and would not leave it. When I tried to remove it it got me on the finger and would not let go. Pretty funny now. Would like to see some of your results. I tried to include a shot here but for some reason it woun't let me attach it?
I was there last month and I only took my 35-70 2.8 vintage lens and I had great results shooting at ISO 1250 in manual mode at 1/60. I stayed with auto focus and I had no issues with hitting the target.
Wow... thanks for all the suggestions! I did leave the tripod and monpod at home. I took some lenses but the 50mm never left the camera. I had a few successes, but need to go back again because I took a rubber hood and should have stuck with my metal hood.
One thing to watch for is that some of the displays have curved glass, so you need to really make sure your lens is flat against the glass or things go quickly out of focus. Also, I was glad I attached the MB-D10 because it helped to hold the camera when you have a short lens on. I may have to invest in the EN-EL4 battery to get more fires off at a time.
I didn't get a chance to see any of your posts before I left, but will put them all to good use the next time I go. Purchased an annual membership so at least now I can get in for free without feeling obligated to stay more than a few hours.
Will post some jellyfish when I get them post processed.
In my Nikonians gallery are some pictures recently taken at Monterey Bay Aquarium with a nikkor f/2.8 lense wide open. D3, Auto ISO 6400, hand held, 14-24 lense. No, I did not use a polarizer or press the lense to the glass.
I do know what you mean about the curved glass displays, they are tricky and I had a hard time with those but after a few attempts I got what I wanted. I didn't press against the glass either by the way.....
>In my Nikonians gallery are some pictures recently taken at >Monterey Bay Aquarium with a nikkor f/2.8 lense wide open. >D3, Auto ISO 6400, hand held, 14-24 lense. >No, I did not use a polarizer or press the lense to the >glass.
Fri 24-Jul-09 04:11 AM | edited Fri 24-Jul-09 04:19 AM by hey_scriv
Here is the best of what I shot this weekend. This was homework for a class I am in, so I haven't had time to process any others yet. One more week, then I'll be able to concentrate on a few others that worked out well.
Sorry, I haven't figured out the link: stuff yet...instructions seem to contradict themselve
This large, fine JPEG was shot with D3; AF-C; Aperture priority; normal process, contrast, saturation, sharpness; auto exposure, auto white balance; high gain; ISO 2800; 1/320s; 0.0 EV; noise reduction OFF; hand held Nikkor 14-24 at f/2.8
Yesterday I went to the Monterey Bay Aquarium to revisit shooting there as the last time I only had a D200 and though I got good iamges I was always on the edge of performance. This time I brought my D700. Using my usual lenses (35-70) and a 200 mm Micro Nikkor, some of the displays were still extremely dim, in the new Sea Horse exhibit, and because some of these tanks were small round cylinders with magnifying glass, it was hard to obtain focus even manually. But I am really making this post because I want to share a discover I made. Put a 16mm fisheye on a D700 and just hold it up against the glass. You will get consistant beautifuly exposed images that are sharp. When I was in the Jellyfish display, people probably thought I was nuts as I was so close to them that only a fisheye would have worked in this situation.
Fri 31-Jul-09 04:26 AM | edited Fri 31-Jul-09 05:01 AM by robsb
I have not posted any of the new images yet. I just got back today from Monterey,and I need to do a major fix on my desktop operating system as it is really screwed up, maybe to the point of a complete reinstall. Although I could process on my laptop, my desktop is more powerful, but right now I cannot open web sites or print to printers from it. I hope to fix it by early next week. Two attempts so far have failed as I have been avoiding a total reinstall. There are images of my shoot last year with my D200. It is easiest to find them in my animals gallery, as otherwise they are deep in the total portfolio. In any case as soon as I get my desktop fixed i will process and post the new images and I will try and post at least one here, assuming they look at least as good on my large monitor as they did on my camera display.
As I promised RRRodger, here is an example of shooting with a D700 and 16mm fish eye at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. The image was processed in Capture NX2.
I went to the Monterey Bay Aquarium in California on Wednesday as I had not been there since I got my D700 to replace my D200 as my main camera. I was shooting mainly with my 35-70 f/2.8 and my 200mm f/4 Micro Nikkor, but decided to try out my 16mm fisheye (what better lens to shoot fish with than a fisheye?). This shot was taken by holding the lens up against the display tank glass and shooting away.
D700 with 16mm f/2.8 Nikkor at f/5.6, 1/30s hand held and ISO 6400.
No it is not. I had a slight rounded corner near the top from the tank frame and a larger one on the bottom, so I used the NX2 Autoadjust brush to clone in those areas, so I did not defish this image. Glad you liked it. Have you seen the Sea Horse exhibit yet?