Wanting to upgrade from my D80 I begin to research the differences etc between the D300 and the D700. Since it appears that the bulk of the $1000 difference between the two cameras is in the FF then it would seem one would have to use FX lenses to justify the cost.
In an attempt to find the prices of FX lenses I find it difficult to get such information as all lenses I look at do not carry such identification. Some sources do identify a lens as DX but I have not found any that say FX.
I still have film lenses from my old F3 that of course are FF but of without auto focus or metering capabilities.
Hi Douglas, the DX lenses are the only ones marked. Any others would work as FX. Your older lenses should work with either the 300 or 700 as long as they are at least AI. The metering will also work although you may have to manually adjust the aperture.
Different manufacturers will use different nomenclature, but in the case of Tamron, Di means it optimized for digital. In this specific case, it means the coatings were improved to reduce reflections off the sensor. Tamron's equivalent of the DX label is Di-II (not the clearest label).
You Set the camera to FX mode and the 12-24 set from 18-24mm will fill the FX frame so you get 12 MP. If you want to use it in DX mode then it works from 12-24 but is only 5 MP. But remember when you use a wide angle lens on a DX camera you are losing a lot as you are croping the FOV. So for example if you mounted a 12-24 on a D700 and shot FX at 18mm you get an 18 mm FOV and 12 MP. If you set the camera to DX and set that same lens to 12 mm you still would have a FOV of 18mm and only 5 MP.
Yes do not use the Chevronkey "<>" but use the Square bracket keys next to the P key. then at the front and end you use a shift of the"\" key "|". Do not use the quotes. I had to use them to tell you what to do
Bob - I was trying out the Tokina 12-24 on the 700 and Iin manual setting which I prefer I did not get an F stop reading nor was I able to adjust the f stop. When it showed 'the right setting' in manual it was way under exposed. If I lowered my shutter speed say 5 stops the shot was fine. I tried the lens on the D80 and had no problem. I tried the 17-55 and it was fine with shutter and f stop. It vignetted at 17-24. I know I've used the 18-200 with same results. What's the problem with 12-24? Gary
It's kind of bizarre but the brackets keep appearing like<> when I've sent you the square ones as you suggested . They are square now but when they show up or appear they're like the ones you say not to use. If these brackets appear the same that's just the software.
I am not clear as to what you are doing. The whole string starts with the square bracket followed by your URL the "|" key and then My Gallery followed by the final bracket. The vertical line essentially says take everything before me and feed it as an embedded link to what follows. Why you are getting < is beyond me. The fact that the "|" is visible makes me believe you are adding the final bracket too soon or are adding quotes which should not appear at all.
Bob - I've included a jpeg of a Mac keyboard and highlighted 3 keys in red. The bracket highlighted I click first and then add my url. I then hold the shift key and click the slanted \. I then type My Nikon Gallery followed by the 'closing' bracket I forgot to highlight. If this is right it must have to do with Mac and the system's software. Gary
Those are the correct keys. If you have not added quotes to the URL or My Nikon Gallery then I agree it must be a MAC issue, which surprises me as this is actually an HTML thing. Sorry I have not used a MAC in at least 10 years, so I can't help you further. Perhaps a MAC usser will chime in and give you the answer you need.
I am in the same position as you. I have the D80 and am looking to purchase the D700. I think that is better then the D300. Have you bought it yet? Planning? Where have you found a good deal? Lets be in touch!
>I am in the same position as you. I have the D80 and am looking to purchase the D700. I >think that is better then the D300. Have you bought it yet? Planning? Where have you found >a good deal? Lets be in touch!
Still in the planning and looking stage. My nature requires I mull it over for quite a while before I act. Still thinking about lenses I might need etc. I have looked at the 700 in a local Shop. One thing to consider is it is really heavy even with no lens attached. Also I need to educate myself on features and draw backs. I saw a post somewhere where someone said that the loss of the crop factor was a deal breaker for him. I don't understand what that means along with a zillion other things. Someone also said if you normally shoot ISO 1600 or less you will get better photos with the D300. So many things to consider.
I bought the 700 and now am buying the 300. I may not get this technically correct but simplistically, if you took the same picture with the D700 and the D300 - the D300 would be 1.5 times closer and that is what they are referring to as the crop factor. When you put a lens on the D300 that is a 70-200 mm lens - because of this crop factor you get the equivalent lens of a 105-300mm lens. When you put that same lens on a D700 you get 70 to 200. The biggest reason for going to a D700 is that you want the advantage of the bigger/better sensor and for me - IT WAS PURELY DUE TO THE NEED FOR HIGHER ISO due to shooting indoor sports (specifically indoor basketball). Now I am shooting outdoor soccer where the field is twice the size of basketball and the lack of having the additonal 1.5 distance is killing me. You can shoot the D700 in a "dx" mode which gives you the equivalent of the crop factor - BUT - you lose megapixels. So if I take a great shot of a player and want to crop it so it is closer - you are limited are limited to how big you can go without affecting the clarity of the picture.
Punchline - you need to really contemplate why you are buying it before you make a decision. B&H is out of the D300 for the body alone - but you can buy it at Sam's Club. Costco is out.
Thanks for a good explanation. I now understand the crop factor issue. A desire for the high ISO is understandable but I am still trying to asses the value of the full frame sensor.
For example if I compare two photos of the same subject taken at the same time with say the 300 and the 700 in good light -- will the 700 take a better photo. By better I mean all the usual criteria like sharpness color saturation etc.. Or is it a situation that depends on the subject with the 700 being better sometimes and sometimes the 300 is better. I realize that the high ISO makes the 700 better in low light but what I am referring to is the full frame sensor.
I guess what I need to know is -- how does a full frame sensor contribute to a better photograph?