I used a three-stop soft grad for the first shot, but the second was made without a filter. I simply used the fill light adjustment in LR and took advantage of the tremendously low noise level of the D3 to extract image information out of the shadows.
High altitude (about 14,000ft) tundra plant life taken with the D3 and 85mm 2.8 Tilt/Shift Micro. Most of these plants are incredibly small, and you can see some of the very common lichen on the granite.
Thu 07-Aug-08 01:44 AM | edited Thu 07-Aug-08 02:00 PM by walkerr
Finally, Jason stalking mountain goats and showing off his new Nikkor 200mm 2.0 AF-S (a very nice lens) and D700. Also a shot that shows how ridiculously close the goats approached us. I had a 600mm on my D3 and was way too close to frame it any other way. Also, the end of a good day on the mountain.
Thu 07-Aug-08 09:23 AM | edited Thu 07-Aug-08 09:26 AM by Prowicz
Rick and Jason - Hi again!
Thanks for yet another interesting podcast. Also some really splendid shots above - thanks for sharing them!
The 200 mm prime as been eating at my soul for some months. And I guess I will purchase it before summer ends. I think its the only Nikkor that includes an element of "Super ED" glass. Its got so much going for it, especially if you use both FX and DX bodies and also own a couple of teleconverters. I've seen some of the most drop-dead gorgeous images posted by guys who have used this lens. One of the main reasons I will be getting it is for its superb bokeh and the ability to isolate subjects, which concurs with my style of photography. So Jason, enjoy the lens, I am sure I will!
Jason, The first landscape shot, with the green hills... what an amazing shot! Also enjoyed the shot up at the kids with the blue sky background, I think you mentioned that one in the podcast.
Just curious (for the both of you), what is your keeper rate? For instance, how many pictures did you shoot in the 2 days or so you were up there to come up with the ones posted? I realize it ranges by photographer and subject, and there is no correct answer.
Fri 08-Aug-08 10:49 AM | edited Fri 08-Aug-08 11:12 AM by walkerr
I think we both came away with about 300 shots, most of them mountain goats and bighorn sheep. I'll tell you that I had a difficult time culling down the images as many of the mountain goat shots turned out pretty well. It was only minor subtleties that made me pick the ones I did.
For example, there were others I liked, too, but this particular shot was a little too tight for my tastes (I needed my 200-400mm rather than the 600mm).
In other cases, the sheep had a habit of turning their heads at inopportune times.
I think it's safe to say for both of us that there were no blown images, just ones we liked a bit better. In addition, both of us feel it's better to show a smaller number of photos than a larger number. Attachment#1 (jpg file) Attachment#2 (jpg file)
I know in the podcast you talked about the color modes now available in CS3 and LR. I tried them out and compared them to NX2 and they are very similar. But what im curious about is that of sharpness and noise control. I sharpened the same shot using both NX2 and LR. They were very similar but I still feel NX2 has better noise control which adds to a slightly better sharpness and chromatic abberation is more of an issue using LR as well, but only with certain shots. Is there something I'm missing to get the photos to look the same or is NX2 just always going to have a better final image output for the D3 file?
Jason's were made in NX 2.0, and mine were made in LR 2.0 using the new color profiles, specifically the "Camera Standard Beta 1", which corresponds to the "Standard" setting in NX's Picture Control function.
Keep in mind that NX loads noise reduction and CA removal automatically, whereas in LR it's done manually. Both work well in my experience once you learn the controls.
To answer your question more directly: I can get identical results using the two programs.
Just to add to Rick's answer and to clarify something that was slightly skipped over in the podcast, the DNG Profile Editor and the Camera Profiles are all beta packages available from the Adobe Labs wiki area. They are not part of the standard Adobe Camera Raw 4.5 or Lightroom 2.0 but have to be downloaded outside of the normal adobe update process.
Each package is independent and can be installed separately. The Camera Profiles are installed into Camera Raw plugin and are available under the Develop / Camera Calibration / Profile setting in LR or Camera Calibration / Camera Profile for ACR. The profile editor is a standalone package which lets you make adjustments or create your own profiles for ACR and LR.
Note that they are both still in beta and the standard warnings apply.
(Posted because I spent most of today day scratching my head trying to figure out why my versions of ACR 4.5 and LR2.0 didn't have the features being discussed in the podcast and wondering if the doctors had been sniffing too much lens cleaner - is the mountain lair properly ventilated?)
>Just to add to Rick's answer and to clarify something that >was slightly skipped over in the podcast, the DNG Profile >Editor and the Camera Profiles are all beta packages available >from the Adobe Labs wiki area. They are not part of the >standard Adobe Camera Raw 4.5 or Lightroom 2.0 but have to be >downloaded outside of the normal adobe update process. > >Each package is independent and can be installed separately. >The Camera Profiles are installed into Camera Raw plugin and >are available under the Develop / Camera Calibration / Profile >setting in LR or Camera Calibration / Camera Profile for ACR. >The profile editor is a standalone package which lets you make >adjustments or create your own profiles for ACR and LR. > >Both packages can be downloaded from: >http://labs.adobe.com/wiki/index.php/DNG_Profiles > >Note that they are both still in beta and the standard >warnings apply. > Just for clarification, on the podcast they were referred to as "DNG camera control". Would this be the "beta camera profiles" for download in the link above?
I just listened to this episode and was pretty excited you two are going to be coming to the air show here in Indianapolis. I was waffling in my decision to go but the chance to meet you guys nudged me over the edge. I signed up this morning. I won't be able to attend the NX2 class on the 23rd though.
If you have any questions about getting around in Indy let me know. Will you guys be here for just the weekend?
Hey there, I'm a novice photographer hoping to graduate to the amatuer status some day. I've recently purchased a Nikon D80 and am trying to immerse myself into podcasts, websites, forums, articles, etc in order to take better pictures. Hopefully, I can use this venue to ask some questions. One question is how much post processing do you do? I am taking pictures but none seem to 'jump' out at me like the ones I keep seeing here and on other websites. I do have a polarized filter on top of a uv filter and it seems to add a little vibrance. But maybe I just need to touch the pics up later. I hate to do that as I think I should have gotten the picture right the first time. How does it work for you?
Neither of us do extensive post-processing for our shots, but it helps to have a good starting point. If you shoot raw, like we both do, it's helpful to either use the Standard or Landscape Picture Controls in NX or their equivalents in the most recent versions of the Adobe raw converters. You can get the Adobe ones here:
The vast majority of post-processing problems can be solved by simply mastering the levels and curves tools in whatever application you use. That's true for both raw and jpeg shooting. Any good book on Photoshop will describe the process. It's incredibly easy and will give your photos the "pop" you're currently missing. Only boost saturaton after you've used those controls. Much of the time, you'll find you won't need it if you've done the other step first.
Polarizers are handy, but we didn't use them for the shots in this thread. Definitely don't stack a polarizer on top of a UV. In addition to a possible degradation in image quality, you'll increase flare, potentially lessen contrast, and definitely increase the likelihood of vignetting (darkening at the edges of the photo). If you use a UV filter (neither of us do), remove it before attaching the polarizer.
GREAT! Wow, I didn't expect such a quick response. You don't know how helpful that was. Thank you so much. It just goes to show that people in photography stores don't really know that much about photography. the guy behind the counter said to always us a UV filter and it was no problem putting the polarizing filter on top.
You have probably saved me a lot of frustration. Thank you again!