Help needed on close up pictures on photographs.i'm working in a photo printing shop and some customers who lost their negatives wish to get another print of the photo.i tried to take a shoot of the photo using a 50mm1.8 lens fixed on a tripod but cannot get the whole frame to be filled up.i heard of close up filters and other close up attachments,any reccomendation on which to use ?most of the photos the customers gave me are in 3R,4R,5R and passport sizes photos.Thanks in advance.. live life as colorful as slides..
If you're not scanning the prints, here's a few tips on taking a photo of a print:
(1) for best results, use (rent or borrow) a macro lens (Nikon calls them "micro"). These lenses have been corrected for close-focusing work. I believe the 60mm AF-micro has been touted as very good for flat-field work (very sharp from corner-to-center-to-corner). (2) Ensure that film is perfectly aligned with the print. At close-focusing distances, DOF is very shallow, any deviation from the focus point will cause out-of-focus areas. Stop down as much as you can. (3) As corollary to #2, print will tend to curl so some areas may go out of your chosen DOF. Placing a clean piece of glass over the print so it remains flat sometimes help. (4) If you use flash, use 2 on either side angled down about 30 to 45 degrees off the horizontal. A flashmeter can help ensure even exposure. With flash, there's no way to see the effects of glare. A polarizer won't help because you won't know how much to turn it for best results. All you can do is press the shutter and hope for the best. (5) Without flashes, use natural light, i.e. take your setup outside. A bright cloudy day is best. The clouds act as a huge softbox diffusing the sunlight, making it pleasing and directionless. This time, you can use a polarizer to minimize any glare. Take care your own shadow does not appear in the viewfinder. (6) Note that your copy will appear contrastier than the original. To reduce these effects, use colour-accurate and low-contrast films like Fuji NPS or NPH. Never use Royal Gold or Fuji Superia, which are very contrasty and saturated (IMO).