A local establishment is getting a 13x20 print of a state championship image I shot a while ago. While this is the standard posed team shot with the trophy and had the benefit of a speedlight, I have to say it's fantastic.
Without the flash (e.g. an action shot during the game) it would be a bit tougher, but still quite manageable given the low noise/high ISO performance of the D4 and current software noise reduction capability.
Well, a little jpeg on the web can't compare to a real print, but here it is. I was just trying to point out that a well-exposed jpeg from the D4 can make very nice prints, notably at sizes larger than normally requested.
You can see the shadows from the stadium lights, which are way above and behind me, on their legs, for example numbers 1 and 28 kneeling on the right. The flash is set on TTL -0.7 aimed straight at them. Set the white balance to flash and away I go. The last image in this post is done the same way, as are virtually all of the images in this post. I usually throw a bit of a curve on them, bringing up the midtones.
Nope. I used a vertical post on the scoreboard which is barely visible in the center background (I cloned out the post). I wasn't directly in front of them, so the slanted yellow line isn't surprising.
Verticals are generally much more accurate than horizontals due to perspective, the vanishing point, etc. However, as most of us know, some verticals aren't - I've seen leaning fences, etc., and had to pick my poison. Sometimes I use people rather than objects - after all, it's not likely that everyone is leaning in the same direction. I tend to use a "nose to navel" rule in such situations.
Shorter focal lengths also tend to produce a problem. Shooting indoors with multiple excellent verticals I often see that several of them disagree. This is exacerbated even more if I'm not parallel to the lines (sitting on the basketball baseline looking up). In those cases I need to choose (or imagine) a vertical line that's close to my main subject and let the ones on the perimeter fall as they may.
Hi Rex. These days I use the noise reduction included with Lightroom. If I were still shooting with a D2h I'd probably use a third party tool for critical prints, which is what I did back in those days.
There was very little noise reduction used in that image. The "full frame" sensors in the D3s, D4, and similar cameras are so good that far less noise reduction is needed than in years past in comparable lighting situations. Unfortunately, the cameras themselves cost a lot more.