Hello, I discovered that when mounting my D-90 vertical with the RRS L-bracket, the port for my cable shutter release is not accessible because the L-bracket is made to fit over the side of the camera where the port is located. For now, I just turn the camera 90 degrees in the cut out notch in the ballhead. But I would rather just mount the camera on top in the vertical position. So I have decided what I need is a wireless shutter release. Is there a wireless shutter release for the D-90 that will work without having to mount the receiver in the hotshoe because there I mount my SB-600. Or is there another solution? Thanks
I believe the Nikon ML-L3 infrared remote works with the D90. It is a great wireless remote release option and not very expensive. In the case of the D90, I believe the ML-L3 must be in front of the camera and pointed back at the IR receiver window. I used to do that with my D70 and didn't find it to be inconvenient. I just bought a D7000 which also uses the ML-L3. Though I have other wired and wireless remote release options, I am very happy to have the ML-L3 option again.
Thank You for the help on this. You are right $14.50, I don't know why I did't order that one when I ordered the other. Thinking back, I believe it was because you had to get out front. When you do that, how do you know if you are not in the picture, especially with wide shots? I guess if someone was with me they could tell me. But how far to the front left or right do you need to be for the sensor to detect the signal? Thanks
While using one of the wireless shutter releases with the transmitter mounted in the hotshoe, can you also mount a flash bracket for the SB-600 and mount it all on the ballhead and everything work??? Thanks
I used to stay behind the camera,looking through the viewfinder with the ML-L3 in my left hand just in front and an inch or two away from the camera pointed at the IR window. No problem, not uncomfortable, very easy. No risk of my hand being in the picture. I rigged a bikers helmet mirror once slipping it through the strap holder so I could point the release from the rear of the camera - it worked, but was totally unnecessary. For the cost of the thing, I think you should give it a try. You can get more elaborate solutions, but I think you will find that the ML-L3 works very well.
That is some interesting science project. I really don't understand how the fiber optic works. It appears to be plugged into the top of the wireless release. Maybe not. What do you do with the other end? It's just out there dangling around on the lens side???
My RRS L-bracket for my D-90 does have a slot that exposes the entire rubber housing that covers the ports. But, the problem was when I went vertical for portrait and mount my camera in the clamp, that side of my camera is mounted face down almost flush onto the ballhead clamp, leaving no access to the ports.
It's not a problem now. Thanks for your comments. I loosen the bolt on the L-bracket, slid it over and that moved the L about 1/2" to the right of the camera. That leaves me enough room to access the port and plug my wired release into it. It's easier to do that first before I mount the L-bracker/camera to the ballhead clamp. Works just fine now!
Sorry, but I'm still learning. Thanks for all your help!
If you don't cover the viewfinder when using a remote release, stray light can enter the metering system from the viewfinder and effect exposure settings. If I'm close the the camera, I usually just hold a hat over the viewfinder being careful not to let it touch the camera.
Actually, they stuck their head in the sack so they could compose and focus the image. View cameras reflect the image on a large ground glass plate or fresnel screen - it simply can't be seen in bright light, so photographers stick their head under the hood to compose and focus. Once focus is achieved, the focusing screen (spring back) is pulled away and a film holder put in place to make the exposure. Notice that I am not using past tense - those cameras are still widely used for large format photography and for their terrific tilt/shift/swing capabilities to control DOF and perspective. They're used by architectural, landscape, and studio photographers. B&V has a great short discussion on their website.
Fiber optic cables have very reflective sides so the light reflects internally within the cable and does not escape outside of the cable. It has been around since the 1960's.
There is some wire that holds one end of the cable and allows that end to sit above the IR sensor on the camera. There is wire at the other end that holds the IR emitting LED of the ML-L3 to the other end of the cable. When one presses the ML-L3 button the IR LED emits a light signal like a TV Remote, the code is for the Memorex TV On/Off signal, and that coded light travels down the fiber optic cable to the cameras sensor.
Can you elaborate on your solution? I have the RRS L bracket for my D80 and have come up against the same issue. Do you mean you just mount the l-bracket offset in the clamp so that the edge hangs off the side of the clamp and you can fit your wired remote in there? Or are you actually moving the L bracket on the camera (and how is this possible since on my L bracket at least, the screw that goes into the camera does not move)
Your L-bracket, if it is a RRS should look like mine, see below. It fits both the D-80&D-90. The slot where the screw goes allows you to slide the L-bracket left or right before you tighen the screw,in my case, right. That leaves me about 1/2" clearance between the camera and side of the L-bracket. Then when mounting my bracket to the clamp on my ballhead, I position the bracket in the clamp just far enough back so the port is exposed just far enough back off the end of the clamp (about 1/4" so I can plug my wired remote into it. I find it best to plug it in before I mount camera/bracket to the lever release clamp on my ballhead. Hope that helps, if not I will take a picture of it and post it here. Good Luck!
Another reason for having the wired remote is also because IIRC the wireless one does not support bulb mode- or at least to use it in bulb mode you need to have the button pressed down continually... whereas with the wired remote you can lock it in place and not need to hold it.
>Another reason for having the wired remote is also because >IIRC the wireless one does not support bulb mode- or at least >to use it in bulb mode you need to have the button pressed >down continually... whereas with the wired remote you can lock >it in place and not need to hold it. > >Norman
The ML-L3 can be used with bulb mode on the D90. Page 85 of the manual describes the settings. You don't have to hold the button down. Press once to start the exposure and press a second time to stop it, or the shutter will close automatically after 30 minutes.
For my D300, D700, etc., with 10 pin remote plugs, I put some Velcro on my Phottix wireless remote, with mating Velcro on the tripod mount or the top of the legs, depending on the mount style. This should work with other wireless remote receivers but check the length of the cable to make sure you have enough to reach the mating Velcro.
"The LBA-1 is an extension that mounts to the side of any Kirk custom L-bracket allowing the camera to switch from horizontal to vertical with computer and power cables attached." Should work with RRS L-bracket also.
The Nikon ML-L3 is fine, but the range is not good and you need to be right in front.
I like the Ninja Remote 2 Weaponized On Amazon because it has a long range (400 ft) and can does a broad spectrum so I dont need to be right in front. Plus if I have my Canon compact in the camera bag I can use it with this remote since it supports most brands.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ In my Timbuk2 camera bag: (1) Nikon D90 fitted with Tamron 28-75 F/2.8 (2) Nikon 50MM 1.8D (3) Tokina 11-16 F/2.8 (4) Remote: Ninja Remote 2: Weaponized