I see I was not alone...I did have quite a problem trying to get that link to paste correctly...In fact I am not sure why it won't!...I eventually gave up...guessing that most people would just figure it out (Paste the whole line into your Browsers address bar) as you obviously have.
If anybody can get the direct link to work...Please could you post it for others...It would be appreciated.
Regards the Photo Clam ballheads, thanks for pointing out that they are knock-offs of other brands...From the very little information that I can find in english, I get the impression that they are pretty good knock-offs and pretty good value...Only problem is nobody sells them in Europe as far as I can see. It would be nice to hear from a Nikonian Photo Clam ballhead owner, his or her experiences.
Errrr.., i fail to see the importance of this notification(not the thread, mind you..).The screw attaching the clamp 'bridges' the connection, doesn't it? So what does it matter,as theoretically the clamp itself can become unattached by rotational stress. Am i right or just a bit dense??
I shoot two Markins heads. One is stock with a clamp. It is well known that it requires a lot of heat to loosen the thread locker they use, similar to Loctite Red. That clamp is never going to unwind.
When I put an RRS lever clamp on an M20 NQS, I used a liberal amount of Loctite Red. I wanted to be sure that clamp never unwound either. Some people use blue... I don't personally have enough experience with Loctite to try to thread the difference there.
I think anyone using an expensive lens and body on a Sidekick should consider what, if anything, is holding their head parts together. If the rig falls over, it could be a very expensive accident.
To answer your question directly, I suspect Wimberly assumes your clamp is properly thread locked. This connection is something that most people would overlook- until it happened. I don't recall that any other major head's ball stems are constructed such that that could happen, or at least has never been reported (to my knowledge).
I believe this might be the link http://www.tripodhead.com/Arca%20Swiss%20stem%20issue%20warning_for%20web%20080527%20(final%20edit).pdf I have just received my Z1 from B&H and noticed that it may suffer from the same design as indicated in the alert. I have also noticed that the quick release plate has a different design than is any of the literature or pictures. I seems to have an extra set of groves to accept the plate but due to this design, the Wimberley P-5 plate safety stop screws are ineffective as the gap between the bottom of the plate is larger than the heads of the optional stop screws. Has anyone else experienced this?
Neil, for a clamp to fall down it takes several full turns to unscrew. However your precaution of using Red Locktite is recommendable. And your assesment on the head parts could not be more appropriate. From experience, what could turn out to be the weakest link in a ballhead under heavy loads is the center bolt from the ball to the clamp, more so when the load is heavy and off-center. I remember one case in the Badlands in South Dakota, where the stem of a ball head (no names) was broken simply by trying to tighten the clamp. That's another reason for us to prefer and recommend Markins, that uses a titanium center bolt.
>> Neil, for a clamp to fall down it takes several full turns to unscrew. However your precaution of using Red Loctite is recommendable.
I may not have been totally clear. My concern is not that the clamp would literally fall off the head because, as you suggest, it would have to make several revolutions on the bolt's thread.
My concern is this: with the head in a "portrait flop" orientation, and here I am primarily thinking of a Sidekick holding up a very heavy lens, if the clamp loosens, it will do a quick 180 degree swing, causing a potentially catastrophic flop. The clamp will not fall off but at that point some damage could be done.
This would be similar to a flop caused by loosening the main locking knob with a Sidekick and payload attached.
>> I remember one case in the Badlands in South Dakota, where the stem of a ball head (no names) was broken simply by trying to tighten the clamp
I guess this is why many shooters with heavy gear are obsessive about the quality of what they put under the payload, and that extends to every part in the chain. I know it has changed the way I think. The above just makes me cringe... I only want to buy my 300/2.8 once. Once was enough.
Yes. Two considerations for camera support: A) Very sturdy, because the end product should be tack sharp images -no excuses- or it makes no sense to buy expensive glass. B) Well built and safe. No copies, no matter how much you think you "save"
Darn scary, yes. 7K or more of glass could be gone in a microsecond. Forget about tack sharp pictures. No more pictures after that. AT least not with that lens.
Wed 30-Jul-08 03:12 AM | edited Wed 30-Jul-08 03:24 AM by jrp
Andreas, What screw? The two parts are adhered together with glue! Instead of being a single strong stem piece. What hurts more is that apparent cost reduction iniciatives may have threatened the reputation of the company which was the pioner, at the front end of the industry. It makes me mad! I really hope those are copies produced under copyright violation and not really Arca Swiss.
After the defect was discovered, B&H had a very long backorder on the Z-1. I only know this as I had one on order without knowing about the problem. When I finally received it, it did have the little silver pin in the shaft which was said to be the retro fit to prevent the two pieces from moving and separating. What I don't know and can't seem to find out form Arca-Swiss is if this is just a retro fit on units manufactured earlier or if it is what is said to be a new permanent solution where in the pieces will be threaded, glued, and then fitted with the pin. It is quite frustrating.
I just thought for a company like Arca Swiss, they should be straight with theirs customer and come out and post note on Adorama and BH PHoto telling everybody whether the issue has been resovled permanently.
I am just wondering what price did you pay? I remember the price for Z1 sp with quick release was in the low $300 last year, but now is close to $400. I wonder if it has anything to do with the changes.
If I remember correctly it was $365.00 as I did not get the QR plate. I fitted mine with a Wimberley QR plate. The Z! comes with a "double decker" plate that accepts the traditional AS plates but also accomodates a rail system. This setup makes it a little more difficult to know when you are seated properly but more importantly, the safety stops on most plates lose their functionality.