I need some help. I take photos of homes for sale. I recently purchased a Tokina 11-16 (was using a Tamron 10-24 but it wasn't mine and it was soft around the edges). I've noticed a distinct issue with bright windows and/or rooms with high contrast. I am not happy at all with the photos. The photo below is straight out of the d5100. Today I am shooting with my d90, and see similar issues, though haven't been in a real dark home to really test it out. What could be wrong? Settings? Even when I have to shoot the front of a home, and the sun is behind (which seems to be 9 out of 10 homes recently), I can't get a decent shot. I've bracketed, metered on center, nothing. This home was shot with the camera set to Landscape - which has not been a problem in the past. I tried manual, but didn't like those results either (ss90, a7.1, sb600). I have to run right now to finish the days shoots - wanted to get this up. Will post more settings when I return. Thanks!
The Tokinas flare and looses contrast very rapidly when you have light directly on the lens, or even looking at it funny. I've seen it more times than I can count.
If you don't need the f/2.8, I'd see about the 10-24 Nikkor instead for wide angles, or one of 10.5 mm fisheyes and use DxO or similar software to de-fish it (also great for QTVR or similar).
In the meantime if you shoot it at about f/3.5 or f/4 and use raw and the lowest ISO you can, you can underexpose by one stop and then adjust the exposure manually in post by a stop, and then boost the contrast and saturation.
>The Tokinas flare and looses contrast very rapidly when you >have light directly on the lens, or even looking at it funny. >I've seen it more times than I can count.
Ugh. Wish I had known that before I bought the lens. I was going to get the Nikkor, but they talked me into the Tokina. At the time, sharpness was my main issue with the Tamron.
Those windows in the photo were not even directly into the sun. The sun was on the other side of the house. Definitely an issue with the contrast of dark interior and bright windows. Light bright homes are not an issue at all.
I thought the 2.8 would help me in dark interiors. Guess not. Might have to trade it for the Nikkor.
I don't think the lens will make a great deal of difference. What I mentioned in my earlier post will affect most lenses, i.e. if there is an area of extreme overexposure in the frame, you will see that type of effect. It doesn't have to be bright daylight to have a window overexpose when shooting indoors.
>I don't think the lens will make a great deal of difference. >What I mentioned in my earlier post will affect most lenses, >i.e. if there is an area of extreme overexposure in the frame, >you will see that type of effect. It doesn't have to be >bright daylight to have a window overexpose when shooting >indoors.
Except that I never had this problem until I started using the Tokina. d90 with Tamron - fine. d5100 with Tamron - fine. Both with Tokina - not fine.
I normally shoot in manual and have no problems save the occasional blown out window, but never so bad that it's an issue.
One of the problems, or perhaps the main problem, is that the outdoor light level is much higher than indoors. Even with the SB600 lighting the interior, your settings are such that the outdoor light is greatly overexposed. Meter the outdoor light level, use manual exposure and set the shutter speed (must be withing the sync range) and aperture combination so that the outdoors would be underexposed a stop or so. If it is daylight bright outside, that may mean using a high shutter speed and a small aperture which may not provide enough exposure for the indoor flash, however. In the example photo, you could have used a higher shutter speed than 1/90th (like 1/250th if your camera will sync at that) without affecting the room exposure, but it would have reduced the outdoor exposure. This type of shot would be where HDR techniques could be used, also.
Perhaps more understanding of exposure would be in order.
Yeah, Tokina makes wonderful glass but their multicoating leave a lot to be desired - even if the 11-16 II is better than the 11-16. You really need to have the light source nowhere near the frame with them, which is tricky on the 11-16.
The dead giveaway it was a lens problem, by the way, was the weird smearing (lens flare) around your in-frame light source of the ceiling fan. None of my Nikkors would do that, even the cheapest of the cheap screw drive 70-300G doesn't do that.
I take it you returned the 11-16 and purchased the Nikkor?
>The dead giveaway it was a lens problem, by the way, was the >weird smearing (lens flare) around your in-frame light source >of the ceiling fan. None of my Nikkors would do that, even >the cheapest of the cheap screw drive 70-300G doesn't do >that.
Exactly. I had never had that problem before. Ever.
>I take it you returned the 11-16 and purchased the Nikkor? >