I'm a total "newbie" and actually just ordered the Nikon D3000 last evening. Up to now I've used a Kodak V570 point and shoot for real estate room photos. It has a wider angle than p&s digital cameras that many real estate agents in the area are using. My question is regarding a proper lens for interior room coverage pictures. I've been told I should be looking for a 10-22mm lens??? The Sigma 10-20mm was mentioned?? As I started Googling len's my head started to hurt as I don't have a clue yet what all the letters/numbers, etc in the literature re the len's is telling me?? Currently it's like a foreign language. I'd like to stay in the $400 range. Would that be feasible for good interior shots showing off the room space?? Thanks for any assistance and I hope I won't be a pest on this forum! Just let me know if I am. Thank Sue
>... My question is regarding a >proper lens for interior room coverage pictures... I'd like to >stay in the $400 range...
In that price range the only option is the Sigma 10-20 f4-5.6 lens, which runs about $480 new. You may be able to find a used one for less. That Sigma is a very good lens, and certainly the value leader in wide angles. If you are willing to spend more, there are other options, but the Sigma is a really good choice, so it's a bonus to you that it is also the least expensive wide angle for your camera.
>>In that price range the only option is the Sigma 10-20 >f4-5.6 lens, which runs about $480 new. > >Tamron's AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di-II is also available for >around the same price as the Sigma.
Yes, I overlooked the Tamron, Brian. I just checked up on it on the B&H website and notice that there's a $50 rebate available on it right now, which would make the price $450, which is less than the Sigma.
I have a Sigma 10-20 and can recommend it based on my use. I've never seen the Tamron. But the specs look good on it, and it might be a good wide angle option. It would be interesting to hear from someone who has some real-world experience with this lens.
Randy and Brian I appreciate your help on choosing a wide angle lens. Now I have 2 to choose from. A newbie question: do those lenses have the auto focus and if not will the D3000 menu help me with that until I can get somewhat more knowledgeable? Thanks, Sue
The Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM, Sigma 10-20mm f3,5 EX DC HSM and Tamron 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di II LD all have AF motors built into the lens and will AF on your D5000. Good Luck and Enjoy your Nikons!
The Nikon D3000, D5000, D40/D40x, D60/D60x do not have an autofocus motor in the camera body. That means that, if you want autofocus, the lens must have a focus motor. In Nikon you want AF-S (Auto Focus Silent wave motor) lenses, for Sigma you want HSM (Hypersilent motor) motors in Tokina you want Pro-DxII lenses, for Tamron B.I.M.
Under $500 (using Adorama prices) you have the Sigma 10-20, The Tamron and the Tokina 12-24.
I am a Realtor in Houston. I use a D300s and have the Nikon 12-24mm lens. It is out of your desired price range, but that said, I often wish for the extra angle of view that I would get from the 10mm lens. I find I very seldom shoot from 15-24mm on my lens. I am always at the wide end. I have considered trading my Nikkor 12-24 for the Nikkor 10-24. You also need to be careful because you may need to straighten out walls and cabinets that curve because of the lens. Make sure that whatever software you use for post processing can "uncurve" your image. If you can try one out it might be worthwhile to do that before you purchase.
Hi Victor and great to meet another realtor on the forum as well as all these wonderful photographers. Thanks for your advise re the 10mm lens. Am I guessing correctly that if I see things curving at 10mm I move on up higher until curve dissapears? What kind of software removes the "curving"?? I have several photo editing programs I use but didn't know about uncurving. Boy, I have a lot to learn and looking forward to it! Sue
There are several types of distortion: perspective distortion (common to all wide angles), pincushion and barrel distortion. Most ultra-wides have barrel distortion, in addition to all of them having perspective distortion. Perspective distortion happens when using a very wide angle lens, especially when not exactly level. It's a royal pain in the lower back, and when I shoot for real estate purposes (very little these days with the American real estate market in the tank), I avoid using an ultra-wide for expressly this reason.
Barrel distortion causes lines to bow outward toward the corners. Although it's present in nearly every ultra-wide, it's not really all that bad much of the time, especially when the intended output is a 2" advertisement. Of course, if you're making a full page print ad, you'll want to get rid of it using one of the software packages. I use Lightroom and Photoshop, but there are other ways of dealing with it.
_____ Brian... a bicoastal Nikonian and Team Member
My gallery is online. Comments and critique welcomed any time!
The other option not mentioned here is your going to need a good speedlight (flash), rooms tend to be dark with strange light patterns comeing in from widows, I take 300-400 picts a month of real estate interiors. Exterior shots I use a 18-200, interiors 10-20 gives you the best coverage, or you can get by with a 12-24. that tight in a 8x10 room. Sometimes a P&S works better in small rooms, it all depends on how much of the room you need to show. If the room is real tight and you need full coverage, its best to take two pict's off a tripod and stitch them together. The 18-200 works for exterior's, you can really get close-ups of damage. Being a Agent thats really not that important to you. I am R.E. Appraiser my requirements are to show the reasons for the value and damage devaluation compared to other Comps.
I agree with Ron's comments. The speedlight is important. I use an SB-600. I typically bounce the light off the ceiling to keep from having a photon blast on the back wall. You may want to experiment with a Gary Fong LightSphere to diffuse the light.
Thanks Ron for your help. I'm printing off the info to put in my file for when I start playing with the camera to learn how to use it for what I need it to do. I've got a long road to travel I think! I'm tracking my camera and it is now in NC and getting closer to my home. Aganin thanks to all, Sue
Thanks Ron. I've got an old one I'll give a try. I can already tell it will be a big adjustment getting used to looking through the view finder to see a scene and not what will now be the "Information Display". Sue
Sat 24-Jul-10 02:08 PM | edited Sat 24-Jul-10 02:12 PM by t3tom
About 3 years ago, we moved and sold our house. They sent out a guy who was "the best in the area" to take the pictures. He was at the house (2 levels about 3500 sq ft) about 45 minutes and with 1 notable exception, did a very nice job. He didn't say much to start with, but opened up a little when I said I was moving several states away. The guy had a simple formula that he compared to "doing studio portraits."
The set up was pretty simple. A DX Canon on a tripod, with a flash bounced off the ceiling and a Sigma 10-20. He always used the tripod and kept it set about chest high. He said this gave all his shots a consistant point of view, which people seemed to like. He stayed in the 15mm range and NEVER used either end of the zoom range. The only issue I had was a very small room that ended up looking huge.
A short time later I bought a Sigma 10-20 and got equally good results in a house we were remodeling and for some friends who sold their house on the internet. Other lens options should probably include the Tamron 10-24, but the Nikon 10-24 is out of the price range.
I've advanced today and got a case for the camera and a 8 Gig memory card. I'm going to order a back up battery. I'm now reading through the manual to get a little familiar with the camera before I jump in and damage it! At the moment it's quite formidable after my Kodak V570. Thanks for the advice and info. Sue