Despite my best efforts, many of my best shots are marred by reflections. Case in point were beautiful views of the golden vineyards near Neuchatel on the train from Basel to Geneva. Very disappointed in the success rate.
I am thinking of using polarizing filters but wanted advice from the experts first. My gear consists of D700 and D7000 bodies with 50mm AF 1.8D and 16-35 AF-S 4G lenses. The 50mm lens (especially on the much lighter D7000) works very well on a cramped plane. The D700 with 16-35 does very well on a train, or any place with more room.
I have read that a filter on the 50mm could cause problems because of the space between the lens surface and the filter.
The polarizer will help some, but the best way to do this is to simply eliminate the reflections in the first place. Get some inexpensive black fabric, and make a "lens hood" out of it that you tape to the window. Then you can't have any reflections! It's a bit of a pain (and it will raise eyebrows from the authorities in the US), but it's far more effective than a polarizer. The CP only works optimally when the reflection is coming in from 90 degrees, and most reflections are anything but that. Plus you can't really maintain a given angle to the window anyway.
_____ Brian... a bicoastal Nikonian and Team Member
My gallery is online. Comments and critique welcomed any time!
You might want to try a collapsable rubber lens hood that you can press right up against the window. The rubber will give enough flex that you can aim the lens at a sufficient angle to reduce most glass reflections. I have one I use on my 24-70 and another one on my 70-200 with success.
I've cupped my hands around the hood to block out stray light from inside the cabin, and positioned the camera to minimize any particularly bad sources behind me. Even then it is tough to get good images, in part due to the atmospheric haze. Peter
While the reflections are a major issue, the other issue is that many transport devices have double glazing so there is the risk of double reflections. However many are also rather dirty which gives yet another range of issues that will come to the fore once the initial problems are removed. Having said all that, any flexible 'cone' that can cut out the stray light will help. A springy frame with a black cover should be a great help and would be light and easy to carry. It does not need to be huge perhaps no more than 10 cm say 4 inches deep, with a square end with similar dimensions should give you some wriggle room to aim where you want. If they were springy a small lamp shade might almost fit the bill. At a push a plastic pudding bowl with a hole in the base would be a way forward.
Mon 10-Dec-12 06:21 AM | edited Tue 11-Dec-12 09:10 PM by mkbee1
>You might want to try a collapsable rubber lens hood that you >can press right up against the window. The rubber will give >enough flex that you can aim the lens at a sufficient angle to > >reduce most glass reflections. I have one I use on my 24-70 >and another one on my 70-200 >with success.
That is the best and least expen$ive solution. Be careful with the lens against the window, because the vibration of the train could easily be transmitted to your camera. The rubber dampens the vibrations a great deal. The closer to the glass, the fewer reflections there will be.
If you don't have a rubber hood, extending your left index finger alongside the lens,and touching it ever so lightly to the window, to dampen vibration and keep the hood from contacting the window glass works well, too.
As others have suggested, a rubber lens hood works quite well. I like the Nikon HR-2 which is a large hood and can be worked into curves and twisted to a degree. The hood is also collapsible so it stores well on the lens.
Roger It's still, ISO, aperture and shutter-speed, right?