Speaking w/ the Lee Filter inhouse tech supervisor we concluded the best approach to using a filter on the 14-24 is to remove the hood.
The question(s) I have been facing are if and how to do this. I called Nikon to see if they had any unrepairable models that I could either purchase or be given to setup some test experiments regarding cutting or grinding the hood. (The rep was initially reluctant, but then after a little more conversation started working on it, though nothing as of yet).
Has anyone else thought of this, done it or see a problem w/ removing the hood? I have thought about if you can cut it off in one piece that there may be a chance to re-attach it later. The space in between the lens and the hood at it most retracted position makes this option virtually impossible by my inspection.
Thoughts and comments are welcome...
#1. "RE: Remove 14-24 Hood" | In response to Reply # 0Ruahrc Registered since 08th Jul 2007Mon 08-Jun-09 01:58 PM
I know that people sometimes cut off the integral hood of the 10.5mm DX fisheye making it a (nearly) circular fisheye usable on FX bodies. Since the design of the hood is pretty similar perhaps you can see how they did it.
Essentially they simply took a hacksaw and carefully cut around the perimeter of the base of the hood making sure to not go in too deep. I think they got it off in one piece.
Here is one example;
This picture may also help you plan your attack- as conveniently the sawed-in-half D3 has a 14-24 attached. It shows you what's underneath the hood maybe allowing you to assess the risk of overcutting
#2. "RE: Remove 14-24 Hood" | In response to Reply # 1Len Shepherd Nikonian since 09th Mar 2003Tue 09-Jun-09 04:41 PM
Perhaps it is safer with no harm to resale value to carefully hold a 100mm grad against the front of the lens hood - many photographers do this with many lenses rather than using a holder.
The Lee give 10x8 crop coverage at 15mm and full coverage at 16mm.
Cokin supply larger than 100mm grads - it is either the X Pro or Z Pro series.
Photography is a bit like archery. A technically better camera, lens or arrow may not hit the target as often as it could if the photographer or archer does not practice enough.
#4. "RE: Remove 14-24 Hood" | In response to Reply # 2Wed 10-Jun-09 06:52 AM
Yes I am considering this point of a destructive modification. I think I could for go the idea of the resale due to that if I were to sell it, the new owner would be stoked to get a lens successfully modified.
My concern is if the modification damages the lens either for myself or if I were to sell it and it were damaged, of course it would be disclosed if I had damaged it and was still fully operational.
So I am going to try shooting w/ a filter handheld initially to test the outcome.
Cheers for the advice-
#3. "RE: Remove 14-24 Hood" | In response to Reply # 1Wed 10-Jun-09 06:49 AM
Great... this is exactly what I have been looking for. Both links give great info and insight into what I am getting myself into. The 14-24 proves to have one more hurdle than the fisheye in that it is directly exposed and without any sort of protective plastic housing directly surrounding the glass lens.
#5. "From experience" | In response to Reply # 0
Are you shooting FX or DX?
As Len touched on - the Lee 4x6 filters will not cover the angle of view at 14mm with FX on a horizontal shot no matter what you do, even if the filter is touching the front lens elements. Put a grad on a diagonal and I couldn't even get an 8x10 out of it.
I ended up bumping up to Cokin X series to get the job done AND I didn't have to damage an excellent and VERY expensive lens.
Even with the larger Cokin filters, though, I was still seeing the filter guides when they were oriented on a diagonal. I ended up getting a second X holder, cutting off the second slot to make a single slot filter guide, and sanding down the center of the guides so they would not be in the way on the diagonal. I eventually achieved a totally working system that I can use a grad filter with that does not obstruct at all at ANY orientation.
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