I've got a F601 with a Tamron 28-200 LD lens and an SB24. I bought all this used due to budget and mostly just to shoot my sons hockey, mostly TTL Zoom at max and aperture wide open. The F601 is my first AF and the SB24 my first TTL compatible flash with a decent GN. (I also own a SB20) My challenge lies in the fact that I have relatives also on a budget (who think I know what I'm doing)who want me to shoot their wedding. I bought a Lumiquest pocket bouncer thinking it wise for this purpose. I read Bo's write-up on the SB 24 as well as others, and have several questions:
1. F601 predates the SB24 I guess, so I have to manually set SB24's a) film speed b) zoom and c) aperture. Why do I have to set the aperture on the flash if the camera's TTL controls the flash duration and hence exposure? For the wedding I am dreading this as I won't have time to set all these things.
2. What's the LD mean on the Tamron?
3. Would I be better off just using the SB20 ?...I'm concerned about red-eye.
4. If I manually set camera at 125 and say F11 and set SB 24 zoom, aperture, and film speed; would TTL give me yecch exposures?
5. Given the equiptment I have, how could I best take advantage of rear sync?
Gosh, I have twenty more questions...guess the bottom line is I need advice on how to best use the equiptment in this application (wedding) and when I have the advice I will run out quick and verify I can make it work before the big day.
#1. "RE: SB 24 with F601 Help please" | In response to Reply # 0jnscbl Basic MemberMon 11-Feb-02 04:31 AM
Take my advice on shooting weddings, since I know nothing about it either ("blind leading the blind" theory). Put new batteries in camera and flash before you take the first shot. Take more film than you think you will need.
I have the SB24 and a N60. I don't remember if you have to set the ASA/ISO on the flash, but that's no big deal. For TTL flash, you do not need to set the aperture, but it's a good idea to do it anyway, so you can refer to the distance guide on the LCD. You can probably leave the zoom set to the widest angle lens you will be using. The only advantage of the zoom is to gain extra distance.
f11 is a terrible idea. Are you doing that for focus insurance? You will max out the flash on every shot, and the recycle time will be several seconds with fresh batteries, extending to half a minute after the second roll. Time waits for no man. If you are worried about focus, use a wide angle lens, set to f4. One set of batteries should last through the whole wedding (take extra set anyway), and recycle in a blink.
You don't need to worry about rear synch. Concentrate on doing the standard shots well. And don't worry about underexposing the wedding gown. That can be corrected in printing. Blown out highlights can not.
Oh, the LD is just Tamron's way of saying the lens is supposed to be good.
"I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it."
#2. "RE: SB 24 with F601 Help please" | In response to Reply # 0Ed Basic MemberTue 12-Feb-02 06:27 PM
> 1. F601 predates the SB24 I guess, so I have to manually
> set SB24's a) film speed b) zoom and c) aperture. Why do I have
> to set the aperture on the flash if the camera's TTL controls
> the flash duration and hence exposure?
Actually, the SB24 predates the F601 by about 2 years. Unless you have a non-AF lens, you should be able to set all those things on the SB24 on an AF camera (except possibly the F401/N4004). A manual focus lens (without the required computer chip) cannot provide the zoom and aperture setting to camera and flash.
> 2. What's the LD mean on the Tamron?
Tamron’s LD stands for Low-Dispersion glass.
> 3. Would I be better off just using the SB20 ?...I'm concerned
> about red-eye.
You’re better off with the SB-24, since the flash head sits higher above the lens. To eliminate red-eye, use a flash bracket.
> 4. If I manually set camera at 125 and say F11 and set SB 24
> zoom, aperture, and film speed; would TTL give me yecch exposures?
With the SB24's GN of 120, f/11 would give you a proper flash exposure within 10 ft with ISO 100 film. However your background would likely be black, like the Nikonian background. This effect is commonly called "cave pictures" because people look like they were shot inside a cave.
For a pleasing effect, open up to f/5.6 to expose for the background a bit. Permanently set your camera to aperture-priority and f/5.6 and use a ISO 400 or 800 film such as NPH or NPZ. Most likely, the F601 will give you a shutter speed of 1/60 sec indoors, which is fine too. Remember you need the background to show up on your print. When you move outside to the sunshine (if it’s a day event), just turn off your flash and keep on shooting in aperture-priority. If you’ve got a handle on the SB-24’s fill-flash capabilities, then go for it.
> 5. Given the equiptment I have, how could I best take advantage
> of rear sync?
Forget about rear-sync at the wedding. But if you set it on by mistake, don’t sweat it.
I used to shoot weddings (I still take occasional requests, just to keep the saw sharp). Some general advice would be: use fast professional film (NPH, NPZ or Portra), buy/rent/beg/borrow a flash bracket, get familiar with the wedding program so you’re not caught flat-footed, keep your eye on the camera’s frame counter as you don’t want to be caught at the end of the roll during the kiss-the-bride part or some other must-have shots, get a backup body loaded with similar film, get backup flash, load up with fresh batteries, bring spare fresh batteries, etc.
Visit my Nikonians gallery.