HELP! I'm almost emarrased to ask...
Hi all... just got my first external flash (I used to
have a Pentax ZX-5.... pop up flash... upgraded to a
F100 and now just got an SB-28)...
So was at a wedding, and when trying to take pictures
with the flash, everything turned out crappy... and I
think I know why... just wanted input... I read in a book that
in order to help avoid red eye, you should use bounce
flash... in such a big room (church)... me about 30ft
away, should I just have had the flash directly pointed
at what I was shooting at?
I also had the little white card flap thing sticking out
which seems to mean that the diffuser gets used... could
that have been bad as well???
I think I may not have waited enough time in between shots to
allow the flash to recharge... I don't know... guess I need
to read some more... just thought some people could help...
#1. "RE: HELP! I'm almost emarrased to ask..." | In response to Reply # 0MoX Basic MemberWed 17-Oct-01 05:00 PM
Do you use a bracket with your flash?
If not, you should start using one. It reduces red eye, and most wedding photographers use 'em.
#2. "RE: HELP! I'm almost embarrased to ask..." | In response to Reply # 1jrp Charter MemberWed 17-Oct-01 06:39 PM
Also, if you are shooting at distances of 30 ft and beyond, make certain you have a high ISO speed film.
Now, the diffuser plastic on the SB-28 is really an "angle expander" for wide angle lenses or a "power reducer" for up-close close-ups, macro in fact. Ergo: I don´t use it for long distances.
Have a great time
JRP (Nikonian at the north-eastern Mexican desert) My profile, My Gallery
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Have a great time :-)
JRP (Founder & Administrator. Mainly at the north-eastern Mexican desert) Gallery, Brief Love Story
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#3. "RE: HELP! I'm almost emarrased to ask..." | In response to Reply # 0
Bouncing the flash can dramatically reduce the power you have to illumnate a scene. If the ceilings were high, you probably didn't have nearly enough light to do the job. The bounce not only increases the distance, but the surface you bounce from will absorb a lot of light. Save your bounce shots for 8-10 foot ceilings (and they should be white).
A technique I use a lot is to handhold the SB-28 at a distance from the camera using an SC-17 coil cord. Run your index finger along the flash head so that the light points wherever your finger points. You can get more distance from the camera this way than using a bracket. Of course it's not as easy to use as a bracket... but it's not bad.
#4. "RE: HELP! I'm almost emarrased to ask..." | In response to Reply # 0
I think it happens to the best of us. I once was at a wedding where the Bride and Groom had a friend shoot B&W's with his F5 and his SB25. He was using a 80/20 bounce reflector by Lumiquest. It's a great device as long as the ceiling is around 9 feet because 80% of the light hits the ceiling and the other 20% goes forward. You get great ambient light effects. Anyways he was using it in churches with 50 foot ceilings and also outdoors without ceilings. I told him later that most of his shots would be way under exposed as his flash couldn't compensate for the distance. Live and learn.
I have had very good results with a stroboframe Pro T and the Stofen bounce reflector. It always keeps the light above the lens so you don't get that weird shadow on verticals and the ambient light is perfect. It works almost as well as barebulb using a Qflash. Also you can use this system outdoors as well as indoors. The higher you can get your flash, the less chance of red eye and the results are fantastic.
#5. "RE: HELP! I'm almost emarrased to ask..." | In response to Reply # 0
Another tip is to set your flash head zoom to manual control and set a narrower angle than the lens you are using.
This only works for bounce flash as once the light has bounced from an object the light will disperse still covering the lens field of view. As you increase the zoom angle of the flash this also increases its effective range.
Warning! Be careful as this will require some experience to not overdo the difference in flash to lens angle and leave areas in your picture not covered by flash.