I guess most of us are hesitant about offering advice that might result in you making more damage.
This is the first time that I have seen under the button.
If it were me (note "ME" I'm not suggesting that you try it) I would mark the plate orientation and partially unscrew the plate so that I could determine if the brass part was coming away with the plate. If it did then I would carefully remove the plate and hope that the underside of the brass part was hollow so that you can poke the broken part out.
If however the brass part appeared to be staying where it was I would:
a) keep asking for help hoping that someone has already had this problem and fixed it.
I thought that too, but it looks like two plastic posts are staked over on the lobes by the screws. If the posts are an integral part of the base, then the metal plate isn't going anywhere without destroying the posts.
Scott Chapin Powder Springs, GA, USA Nikonians Team Member
Did you try removing the bushing plate? It appears that the center shaft is fixed to the brass bushing, by a keeper on the bottom side, otherwise it would work itself out of the bushing. I doubt it is press fit but if it happens to be, removed the metal bushing bracket and freeze it with CO2 or if you have a subzero freezer. CO2 coolant spray can be found at any electronic supply store. That should allow clearance to pop the shaft out. To install the new one, freeze that one also so it will clear the hole. When it comes up to normal operational temp. it should be rock solid. Stan St Petersburg Russia
Sat 03-Jul-10 09:26 PM | edited Sat 03-Jul-10 10:04 PM by TCB
I would of liked to have seen the underside of the new button you just bought, in the photo as well, but I think what you suggested might be the best way, drill a very small hole and use a small easy-out. Unless you hear of another exact method.
PS. Studying the above pic again, if the cross like bracket isnt held in by posts, "just 2 screws" It looks like the brass ball would just fall away from underside bracket as you loosened the screws. Then just a matter of replacing bracket, and applying downward presure on new button untill locks into place.
Does the new button have a tapered mounting pin? I ask this because the brass insert may have a tapered hole in it. Nikon may have used an adhesive or melted the back side of the button shaft. The two Phillips drive screws look too inviting to me to leave alone. Hopefully the metal mount plate can be removed without getting into the complex switch contact setup. Good luck if you proceed any further.
I always like a challenge like this but I feel that you might want to consider "biting the bullet" and sending it in to Nikon for the button installation. There are two reasons to my way of thinking on this. First they have probably seen this problem before and will have a fix for you and secondly; if something goes wrong it's their problem and not yours. In any case good luck with whatever decision you make.
Looking at the little bronze bush in the middle, I think it's possibly a sort of "ball joint" that allows the four-way movement of the button. Out of interest, if you apply *very* gentle force to the four little "buttons" or contacts in the cut-outs in the "cross", do they actually depress at all? If they don't, my guess is that the button is made of a conductive plastic that bridges the circuit between each of those little contacts and the central bush.
It looks also as if there is some sort of bond or adhesive securing the cross to the body.
John Gruffydd Mold, Wales, UK D300, D200, OM1, OM2n, Bronica ETRSi, Lumix LX5
Yes I know that this thread is old, but this was the one reason I signed up for this forum.
Inherited a D300 with the selector switch broken off. Ordered a replacement online, remove the two screws that removed the plate which also held the lock ring in place.
Used some watch repair tools to pick at the remaing plastic stuck in the brass ball, got it to a point where I just yanked it out along with the brass coupling ring under it.
Removed all the old broken plastic, put the coupling rings (there are 2, one is more fragile than the other) back in and then the ball. yeah, it's hard but go easy and it pops in.
Put the lock ring and metal bracket back in and then the new selector button. Had to adjust it a couple of times to make sure the couple ring holes were visible under the brass ball and pressed the button into.
Pressed it a few more times to make sure it was properly seated and got it worked again.
This seemed like an easy fix but could have gone wrong. But the camera itself was free and a $10 part gave me a second body to use otherwise I would have just sent it into Nikon.
Interesting old thread. When this thread was active you could call Nikon service and buy needed parts. Recently Nikon changed their policy and now they will only sell parts to Authorized Repair Centers.
I just replaced mine and you have to remove the back of the camera because the plastic button has a shaft that extends through a stamped steel retainer, brass bushing, clear plastic part, some other miscellaneous layers and then is captured by a brass press fit washer which has to be pressed on to the plastic shaft from the rear. The black plastic remnant which can be seen in your photo must be removed with needle nose pliers. It takes some force to remove it from the brass washer that captures the shaft on the selector button and holds it all together. Unfortunately this is a very poor design as the selector switch gets a lot of use and it depends upon a very small cross section of plastic which can fatigue and break easily. I miss the robustness of my Nikon F2 which still works flawlessly but obviously takes film and processing. I took some pictures of the repair but I didn’t readily see a way to upload them.