Anyone who has one that seems to be overexposing, how are you dealing with it? Last weekend I shot an event and set my custom settings so my camera always exposed -2/6 and while this helped, I still got some unexpected overexposes at times.
Yesterday evening, I set it back up to normal and then set my "Brightness" to -1 and took some shots of flowers (I normally always shoot people but for the test, yellow Lilly's seemed good) like that, a couple exact with the camera set at -2/6 again and then setting normal ADL.
I compared all the images using View NX and the ones I had shot with the brightness down -1 by far had less blown highlights when I looked at the images with the 'Show Lost Highlights' checked than the other two.
I love the camera but this is something I have to work out. Are others dealing with the problem on here? How are you doing it?
>Jason, > >I agree with your overexposure statement wrt ACR/Lightroom, >but up to now I never heard it referred to as a >"bug". Is this your own conclusion, or do you have >info from Adobe? > Unless they designed it on purpose to overexpose images, which would then make it a feature, one would call it a bug.
Adobe might quibble about a 1/4 stop overexpose, maybe label it a feature. I'm not in love with Adobe, just curious as to whether or not they have stated any problems with ACR/D300, either privately or publicly.
>Lastly, are you shooting RAW or JPEG? If you're shooting RAW, >what converter are you using? ACR/Lightroom tends to >overexpose D300 files by default (bug in the software).
Jason, you mention that ACR overexposes D300 files by default. Could you please throw some more light (pun not intended) on this? As I understand, with RAW, we *shoot to the right* as long as we don't clip the highlights. If that be the case, wouldn't the *overexposure* you mention, actually help? Thanks in advance.
The shoot to the right approach relates to having the camera settings generate an exposure to the right, not the raw converter.
What I've seen with ACR and LR is that the camera's histogram (or even better, the three-color histogram) shows that you're not clipping, but when you pull up the image in either of those programs, highlights may be clipped. This is the opposite of what you normally encounter where the in-camera histogram is usually more conservative because of the color space used, etc. In addition, you'll find that images made with the default ACR/LR settings are more washed out looking than with other converters or as compared with the camera-produced jpegs.
If you use ACR and LR and try to counteract this problem through camera settings, you'll probably think you need to adjust the exposure by -0.5 to -0.7 stops, but that's the wrong solution because it can increase noise. Similarly, a negative brightness slider adjustment in ACR/LR is also the wrong solution as it it's not addressing the right part of the tone curve and even with large changes, doesn't really fix the problem. A -0.25 exposure adjustment as a standard starting place is a better way to go and aligns its results better with other tools, as well as the camera. The end result looks good, and is much more satisfying. Give it a try.
First...let me say this. I well remember the fallout over the D100 underexposing. I remember the custom curves everyone was loading into their camera to combat it. I was very puzzled by that as I NEVER had that problem, ever. I do, however, have overexposure problems with my D300 so maybe it's my turn to be one of those who have problem. Then there was the D200 banding problem and then the D2x focus issues..so, some people do have problems that other's don't.
I mostly was shooting aperture priority when these problems occurred but I have shot full manual and shutter. My shutter speeds varied from 1/100 to 1/500 using aperture priority. Most of the time, I kept my shutter speed when in AP to at least 1/200 or more. If need be, I'd rev up the ISO. The whole photos often look washed out, like they're just too bright even to the point of washing out colors. You can try to darken them but you can't hardly do anything with the pancake faces when it happens. A lot of the times, setting my camera to -2/6 gave me proper exposure. They were still leaning towards being a wee bit bright most times though even at that.
I don't think the scenes were that difficult, certainly nothing that my D100 and D200 wouldn't have been able to handle. I was shooting jpeg, fine, optimal quality, AWB. Mostly matrix and a few center weighted.
Hey, I'm loving the camera so far though, I've had it a week, have put close to 900 images on it and it's a joy to shoot with. I think I'd love to get a second one as well soon. I just need to get a handle on this too bright/over exposure thing.
ps Hey Jason, not to change the subject here but..I own your other book, great source and I was wondering if there's anyway when you update or add to the new one that you'd be able to just let us download the whole thing over again? like a new release?
The only area where I generally have an overexposure issue is with bright skies. It could happen with any camera, and I'm sure it does happen with just about every camera. In that case, there might be 10 stops of light in the scene whereas the D300 can only capture a 7 stop range. In that case, I'd just Neutral Density filters or Graduated Neutral Density filters. That would bring the sky down several stops so that the D300 could capture more detail in the sky.
Brandon Nikon D80, D300, & F3
"Great art not only brings forth the ordered essence of human experience, but of the world we live in, too - this is what we call beauty. Art and love are man's greatest gifts to himself; and there can be no art without love. Art is always the making of the soul, the craft of a human being's touch ..." - David R. Hawkins
I have my D300 fine tuned with a -1/6 stop exposure adjustment. That helps contain ensure the highlights are all contained, but I'm not sure I would refer to it as correcting an overexposure problem. The bigger adjustment I make is the one Jason mentions (which oriented from me) - a -0.25 exposure setting in the Adobe raw converters. The combination produces excellent results and ones that are similar to what I find with other converters as well as the camera-produced jpegs.
>Anyone who has one that seems to be overexposing, how are you >dealing with it? Last weekend I shot an event and set my >custom settings so my camera always exposed -2/6 and while >this helped, I still got some unexpected overexposes at >times.
Until the camera's IQ surpasses that of the user, and a mind-reading interface is developed so it knows instantly what we want, EV adjustments will always need to be made. The camera is designed to expose in specific ways for a limited set of situations, but of course there are an infinite variety of lighting situations in real life. I just memorize EV settings for various situations I frequently encounter, EV bracket appropriately, watch where I put the metering sensor, and adjust the settings as necessary.
walkerr, I like to shoot raw when I can but often times, because of what I'm shooting, it's not practical.
It is more of a highlight issue for me as well. I have been doing a lot of searches and have been surprised how many reviewers have reported that the camera has a tendency to over expose. Again, I'm not talking about difficult light or metering situations. I'll be doing a lot of experimenting with the brightness settings between now and next weekend when I'll need to have it under control.
I'm really not sure what the 'brightness' setting does though, I have read in the manual that it does not affect exposure so what is it?
Just an anecdote for you, not sure if it means anything relevant, but as I gain more and more D300 experience (7 months currently), I find myself shooting it pretty hot on purpose. I.e. I am oftentimes shooting with a plus EV exposure dialed in. I like the look and in general I am attracted to back-lighting so the one goes with the other I guess. I remember closely monitoring the discussions of D300 "overexposure" and my own shooting results when the camera first was released but I am no longer convinced there is a systemic problem - at least not for my style and/or subjects but YMMV.
Also, I personally don't use blinkies to judge, instead am relying solely on histograms. Not sure if it was ever proven, but at some point I became aware that blinkies were said to be too conservative in indicating blown highlights. And you should also be aware that the D300 LCD screen is said to be "too bright" at default and consider dialing in a -1 brightness on the LCD.
Personally I am shooting raw and Capture NX and usually some level of Active D-lighting too. But yes, examples of your shooting and more details may help others to help you. Are you also possibly referring to flash exposures for the event shooting?
SteveK My Nikonians gallery 'A camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera.' -- Dorothea Lange
> And you >should also be aware that the D300 LCD screen is said to be >"too bright" at default and consider dialing in a -1 >brightness on the LCD.
I actually have dialed in +2 on the LCD brightness level on my D300. I have found that ACR does indeed translate the data a little hot and my images, while looking great on my camera LCD, were overexposed once I got them into ACR. So, I dialed in +2 on the LCD, and now I am looking at basically what ACR translates my files into. Then I can make in-camera adjustments and all is right with the world once again.
The bottom line is that every camerea, every workflow set-up, and every photographer is a little different (from each other...haha) and so we all have to make these slight adjustments/compensations in order to produce images that please us...
I am no expert. But something from the Thom Hogan's D300 eBook might interest you. According to Thom, if you're using single point focus in Matrix metering, what's "under" the focus point affects the D300 metering. If it's a dark subject, the D300 increases exposure. A lighter object will have exposure reduced. I can state that my D300, which operates normally (in my subjective opinion) reacts that way too. I note you mention that your test objects, yellow Lillys look OK. SInce they're lighter objects, may the D300 is properly exposing them or maybe slightly under-exposing them (easy to correct in RAW). I wonder if this is any help to you.
> According to Thom, if you're using >single point focus in Matrix metering, what's >"under" the focus point affects the D300 metering. >If it's a dark subject, the D300 increases exposure....
Yes! This just happened to me, and I've been puzzeled as to why...several images overexposed! I just checked, and I had set to spot metering for one special instance, and forgot to switch back to matrix.
D800 I still own an F100; do you think film will make a comeback?
I've done lots of tests on this subject, but to be honest, still don't have a definitive answer. I've tested under studio light, natural light, using grey cards, light meters, manual mode, aperture mode, etc, etc.. but sometimes it's spot on, sometimes it's 1/3 over. The only thing I'm 100% is, as already mentioned above, Adobe/LR overexpose the image during import. Something around -0.25 fixes it. I now just adjust the camera accordingly to my scene, if loads of bright areas are present I use -0.3, if no, no adjustment is necessary.
Fairly new to the D300 but shooting matrix metering, Aperture priority, sRGB, single point AF & Standard colour mode most of my images are 0.2-0.33 EV overexposed. I shoot RAW so an EV adjustment in CNX does the trick. For sports I will probably just dial in -0.3 EV unless I can get better results using CW metering. For macro work I shoot manual most of the time and just work off the histogram (use the RGB histogram a lot as the D300 tends to blow reds/yellows).
I'm glad I am not the only person that has seen this.
I actually adjust my speed and ISO to result in that meter being slightly to the right on every shot. I wonder if I should bring it and have the exposure checked like the previous poster states.
I don't know. I have gotten used to it and always shoot in RAW. I always get nervous about dropping my camera off at service .. almost like dropping the car off. I don't want them to inadvertently cause more problems.
actually, so far my D300 overexposes way less if at all than my D80. most of the time my exposures are great right out of the camera, and matrix metering works way better than with the d80 too, i have a lot more confidence in it, whereas witht he D80, i was frequently using spot and CW metering, with -0.7 EV dialed in. so while i dont doubt that folks have had issues with this, i'm not sure if its a case of sample variation or just the idiosyncrasies of a new caera and figuring out how to use it. the biggest variable is probably user error.
Voodoo What you describe is exactly what I experienced with the first D300 I received, which was from a very early batch. The Matrix metering was very erratic and it subsequently overexposed by anywhere from 1/3 to 1 1/3 stops. This is compared to all my other DSLRs, starting with the D1X, which are all within 1/3 stop of each other. Spot metering wasn't quite so bad, but still considerably off. I returned it for a replacement and the one I currently have meters essentially the same as the others, with slightly different exposures that are due to differences in the DSLR designs.
My recommendation is to return it for replacement, or if that's not a possibility, send it in for repair. It shouldn't be that way!
OldPhotos "If everyone possesses some measure of this intangible quality called creativity, photography is unprecedented as an outlet for its expression." - Ansel Adams