Hello. I just purchased a "used" D3s to replace my broken D800E. I bought it here in Japan. It took 3 trips to finally get the correct shutter actuations from the camera which by the way looks brand new.
Anyway, fast forward, after bringing my own CF card to determine the total number of actuations, it was less than 270. That's it. No wonder it doesn't have any scratches and the rubber looks brand new. I got it for $2,915 USD (Converted from Japanese Yen). I think this was a great score for me.
Few things that I am still working on coming from a D800 and D700 user are:
1. flash and L buttons (top left). The owners manual was in Japanese only so I'll need to download the manual to understand those features including the Mic button.
2. The preview plus and minus buttons are missing but I think it requires a combination buttons to zoom in to preview the shot?
3. It appears that the D3s does not come with a screen protector. My left eye is my dominant eye so I'll need something to protect the screen so that my nose won't scratch it.
4. Firmware appears to be the original. A 1.01 B 1.01. This will require an update.
5. The camera came with two fully charged batteries (all bars present) so that is consistent on why the camera has very few shutter actuations.
6. I just ordered a Kirk L bracket. I think this is a must have for me.
Any suggestions that you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
1. the "flash" button is used in conjunction with the main (rear) command dial to cycle through flash modes - Slow sync, Rear-curtain sync, Red-eye reduction, etc. The "L" button is used in conjunction with the main (rear) command dial to lock the selected shutter speed in shutter priority or manual, or in conjunction with the sub-command (front) dial to lock the selected aperture in aperture priority or manual.
2. The button below "MENU" is used in conjunction with the main command dial to zoom in or out (and also to view multiple images) in playback mode.
3. That's correct. I've never worried about the lack of a protector, but some folks like to add one from the likes of GGS or Giottos.
4. I think A-1.01/B-1.01 is still the current firmware level.
I would not worry about a screen protector. The screen has tempered glass and is as close to indestructible as you can get. (OK, don't hit it with a hammer, but it can certainly stand up to your nose.) I recently sold my D3s after using it for 3 years and the screen looked as good as new when I sold it.
Thanks Mick. I'll take your advice on not worrying about the protective screen. I was not sure about the tempered glass and I keep on imagining the typical plastic protective screens that we normally get for the D700/D800 which gets scratched easily.
>Ah yes - that update only adds support for the AF-S VR 800mm >f/5.6E Nikkor - which is why I have not bothered to install it >
Well, that was a useless firmware update that I just did. Duh!
BTW, using my speedlight, bounce flash with the white card extended, I noticed that people's faces are a bit over exposed. Do I need to set my flash to -1/3 EV? I'm not sure if this is typical with the D3s.
>Is the flash set to TTL or to TTL-BL? I've found such >overexposure to be common in TTL mode but not in TTL-BL mode.
Jon - I had to replicate and tested how the flash (SB 900 this time) performed still using bounce flash indoor with the white card extended. I tried TTL-FP and TTL-FP-BL.
With my latest test, I did not get an overexposed face this time but I noticed that the TTL-FP appears to be brighter or more power was put out on the face compared to the FP-BL mode. The camera was in Matrix metering using single focus point. I am assuming that this is expected?
I apologize for the additional questions. I tried searching CF cards selections but most of the post were much older.
I would like to ask if it is worth going for the Lexar 1000x cards or just settle with the 800X CF cards? I have a mix brand between Sandisk and LEXAR. My other Lexar is a 64gb 400x UDMA 7 that I use for my D800E. I don't intend to do a lot of fast action burst but something in between would be nice including file transfer to the computer.
Any practical suggestions on which CF cards to get? I was thinking of getting a pair of 16gb or 32gb for the D3s since I think will be sufficient for a single day event of shooting.
I have not find any need to program the second slot as back-up with my other cameras, just overflow and/or for video recording. I guess this is more of a personal choice.
I guess what I am trying to figure out if anyone has the technical answer on the maximum bus speed that the D3s can process or write to the card.
For example, if I use a 16gb CF Lexar card for example with a 800x speed and a 16gb CF Lexar 1000x card, if I shoot at 11fps until the camera's buffer is full and cannot shoot any further until the buffer clears, will both card clear about the same time or will I see a signifcant speed performance with the 1000x card?
Same goes if it was Sandisk extreme and extreme pro. What I am trying to find out is if the read/write rate on the D3s has a max rating of 60mb/s or 400x for example, then getting the pro version provides very little benefit when installed in the camera. This might be different with the D4.
>I guess what I am trying to figure out if anyone has the >technical answer on the maximum bus speed that the D3s can >process or write to the card.
>For example, if I use a 16gb CF Lexar card for example with a >800x speed and a 16gb CF Lexar 1000x card, if I shoot at 11fps >until the camera's buffer is full and cannot shoot any further >until the buffer clears, will both card clear about the same >time or will I see a signifcant speed performance with the >1000x card? > >Same goes if it was Sandisk extreme and extreme pro. What I am >trying to find out is if the read/write rate on the D3s has a >max rating of 60mb/s or 400x for example, then getting the pro >version provides very little benefit when installed in the >camera. This might be different with the D4. > >Regards, > >Glenn
>With my latest test, I did not get an overexposed face this >time but I noticed that the TTL-FP appears to be brighter or >more power was put out on the face compared to the FP-BL mode. >The camera was in Matrix metering using single focus point. I >am assuming that this is expected?
Yes. Here is an article that explains it in more detail. For additional discussion, it's useful to look though the Speedlights forum.
I'm a new (used) owner as well. I love this camera. I've also ordered a 35-70 F2.8 D MACRO lens to use with it as most of my lenses are dx save for a prime lens and a cheap quantaray. What lenses are you using? Do you have any sample pictures from this camera that you've shared? I'm kinda new to the forum so forgive me if if you've already answered this.