Being a new D1X owner I was wondering if some of the members can share with me their workflow patterns. What software do I need, what is the order in which you use it. Do I need to buy capture 3.5? Is it the same as Photoshop 7 in terms of function? What are some of the habits of the members that might help me avoid mistakes? I'm not affraid to make mistakes given the educational value but I would love to have a head start. Thanks for your help.
#1. "Wow...where do we begin?" | In response to Reply # 0benherrmann Registered since 17th Aug 2002Fri 21-Feb-03 05:22 PM
Greetings from NC! It would be difficult to answer your question, but suffice it to say, your particular questions are analogous to the young chap who just went out a bought a porsche (right after he got his drivers license). You jumped right into a pro camera, so that is a great investment.
1. Many software recommendations are bantied about on this and other forums. The most prevalent (and one of the more expense ones) is Adobe PhotoShop 7. This is one of the premiere image manipulators on the market, albeit expensive. Nikon Capture is great and becomes really impressive in terms of being able to modify and upload custom tone curves to your camera (no other software does this). I know it does this with the D100, but I am not familiar with this procedure on the D1X. Plus, you will soon find that shooting in RAW gives you some of the sharpest, most accurate photos. With that you would find Capture invaluable. Other pieces of software that cost under $100 (US Dollars) are JASC Paint Shop Pro 7.04, or Ulead's Photo Impact 8. Then are a whole slew of awesome programs that you can download and purchase from the internet (i.e. IMatch, Photo Brush, ICorrect, etc.). You must determine which you like. I have quite a few of them because I find some tools in each one that I use individually. And if you are leery about purchasing something that may be a mistake, just stick with the Nikon View software that came with your camera; although it has limited photo editing features, for many images this may be all you need. But you will soon find your thirst won't be satisfied with Nikon View alone.
2. Mistakes occur - whatever they may be. That is why you will find yourself becoming addicted to this forum. Other forums are DPReview.com, Steves Digicams, etc. By addicting, I mean to say that the amount of information being exchanged is mindboggling. Any mistakes you made will soon be answered by some highly intelligent folks - in particular on this forum (I know, I'm biased here).
3. Take your photos, import the photo into the software of your choice (make sure to calibrate your monitor so what you see is near accurate), and then make adjustments where needed. You will soon develop an eye for proper color. Remember though, mistakes are essential because they serve as the impetus for change based on input and learning.
Well I said my two cents worth. I'm sure others will offer much more. Remember though, you asked a series of generalized questions so you may receive alot of generalized answers.
Good shooting...heck, I'm jealous 'cause you got a D1X first time around.
From beautiful North Carolina, USA
#2. "RE: "Workflow"" | In response to Reply # 0
i guess i will go first(victor will set us both straight). i use photoshop5.5 open image, adjust levels, black point, then midtone then highlights, despeckle in filters, unsharp mask in filters maybe 200% 1.0 pixel 0 threshold give or take %, save copy as tiff and save no changes to original to keep for future use. the sharpening is with no sharpening in camera and no ex. comp., tone or color adjustments in camera. i was always told by pros that ps does it better than the camera and see no reason to disagree. that should get you started, others will undoubtedly have different opinions.
" the fox fears not the man who boasts by night, but the man who rises early and goes forth"
#3. "RE:" | In response to Reply # 0
One thing that you'll discover is the prodigious amount of images you will begin to capture, and how quickly your hard drives will fill. When I am shooting in the field, I create a folder naming it with the job number on my laptop. All the images for that shoot are deposited into that folder, and 2 CD's are burned. When I am back at the office the CD's are labled, with the job number and are filed. I take one of the CD's myself. The folder in the laptop is uploaded onto the office servers, and is cataloged with Portfolio, these are the images that we will work from. At this point the memory cards and laptop are wiped clean of the shoot. We do the first viewing with Iview, to choose possible images. Those images are places in a folder and are batch color processed <Photoshop 7> and proofs are made for the client and art director. Since the proofs have the "frame" numbers under them, it's easy for them to identify which one to work on. This is one example of a shooting workflow, a color workflow has been wildly written about, and is worth reading the threads on that.
So software wise...Portfolio for keeping track of the images, Iview to see the images QUICKLY, I could use it for filing but it doesn't work properly over the network, and Photoshop.
Hope this helped. When you get into it, and have more specific questions, ask!
#12. "RE:" | In response to Reply # 8Sat 22-Feb-03 11:49 PM
HI Vinnie Yeah cumulus is pretty good! What ever software you decide on will be better to use from the very beginning! I shoot in Large Jpeg...to be a little hypocritical yes, NEF will give you more dynamic range and is like a digital negative. Because I have a very stuctured color workflow, and a calibrated profiled camera, I don't find the need to shoot NEF. I like the speed and flexablity that jpegs gives me. And even shooting jpegs, I'm still filling hard drives and CD's and now DVD's. BTW, what are you shooting?
#15. "RE:" | In response to Reply # 12Mon 24-Feb-03 05:24 PM
I ususally shoot wildlife and sporting events. I took my first photos this weekend and lvoe the camera, phenominal!! The only problem I had was after loading the raw files from my card reader into Nikon view 5 and then into photoshop, I must have missed a step on compression because my 7 mb files turned into 18 mb ps files. What did I do wrong?
#16. "RE:" | In response to Reply # 15Mon 24-Feb-03 05:37 PM
Vinnie, there's nothing wrong. that's the size of the image after they've been opened. they're just decompressed. Actually the RAW data has been processed into RGB channels and each of those channels is about 6 megs each, which is why you have a 18meg PSD file. See why it's important to start getting ready for all those 18meg images? Glad you love your camera!
#4. "RE: "Workflow"" | In response to Reply # 0
As a "filmy", I have no personal experience with digital workflow other than messing about with some Kodak photo CD scans. But I found this tutorial http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/workflow1.shtml interesting - and a bit intimidating. Hope it helps.
Visit my Nikonians gallery.
#5. "RE:" | In response to Reply # 0
*For print: Raw uncompressed > Nikon Capture > Bibble > Photoshop
*For the web: Raw uncompressed > Capture > Photoshop
*For stock photo/publishers:
Raw uncompressed > Capture > Photoshop > Genuine Fractals
If you have to watch your budget, especially when considering how many Nikkors you might need, Adobe PS Elements is great for basic photo-editing. It also accepts most plug-ins that the full version does. I've also heard that Microsoft Picture It is getting better and better with each new version. But, still, if you have the money and you KNOW that digital photography is what you'll be doing, just go for PS full version.
I've come to appreciate Nikon Capture more lately, especially for batch processing.
If you require huge file sizes, it's Lizard Tech (GF) all the way.
All of the above software is available to demo, free of charge, so take advantage.
Good luck and enjoy the D1X.
#7. "RE:" | In response to Reply # 5Fri 21-Feb-03 09:47 PM
Thanks for your reply. One question. If I use Photoshop as the program of choice for photo editing, is the capture to bibble step necessary to convert raw files into something usable by Photoshop? Can you give me a little color (no pun intended) as to why you think this is the best workflow?
#10. "RE:" | In response to Reply # 7Nicholas Registered since 25th May 2002Fri 21-Feb-03 10:50 PM
There are probably as many preferences in this area as there are digital photographers.
With Nikon Capture, you take the raw 16-bit file and are able to make many in-camera adjustments such as tone, color, white balance and exposure compensation. When you are done editing, both the finished file and the raw file are saved simultaneously, allowing you the capacity to always return to the original. You can't do this with PS. Is there a difference in using or not using Capture? Again, more opinions, but mine is that my Capture-editing saves me quite a bit of time in Photoshop. I have done comparison mock-ups of the two methods and I will give an edge to Capture, at least for my nature photography. Capture and Bibble? Capture is much faster but Bibble offers a few more variables to control.
I'm sure many people will say that anything Capture and Bibble can do, Photoshop can do. I'm not going to dispute that at all, especially when you look at some of the creative and artistic work done digitally nowadays. It really just boils down to where you feel the most comfortable.
I would also recommend reading anything and everything about digital photography. But most importantly, just get out there, shoot as much as you can, and sit at your computer for as long as you can. That's where the real learning comes in, at least in my case it did.
#13. "RE:captureBibble" | In response to Reply # 5
Confused as to why interject one more modification. I thought Bibble was a useful replacement for Capture, and if you use Capture then you should not need Bibble. Realise that you gave a partial reason, but could you amplify.
keep your mind and eyes open
#11. "RE: "Workflow"" | In response to Reply # 0
If I could only purchase one program to use with my D100 it would be Photoshop 7. The next purchase would be Nikon Capture 3 (almost solely for the ability to upload a custom curve found elsewhere in these forums). Then I'd seriously consider getting the Adobe Camera RAW plugin for Photoshop to keep almost all of my workflow inside Photoshop and skip opening the RAW (NEF) files in Capture.
We like to present Black & White pictures to our clients so we use the B&W filter from Nik Multimedia. The PenPallete software that you can get with the Wacom tablets makes it really easy to selectively erase (with your mouse or the pen) the black and white from a picture to yeild some very attractive "hand tinted" black and white pictures.
#14. "RE: "Workflow"" | In response to Reply # 11genec57 Basic MemberSun 23-Feb-03 06:48 PM
Just this week with the release of Adobe's new Camera Raw plugin my workflow is vastly simplified. I now open RAW files (I shoot only RAW) in Photoshop, do white balence, exposure, and/or saturation adjustments as necessary and then finish off in Photoshop.
Camera Raw is far superior to NC or Bibble and is much faster. The only place my workflow may differ is that I may use Nikon View for initial culling due to a larger thumbnail view. Nikon View still allows me to open in Adobe CR and go from there.
Life just became simpler and ever so much better.
#17. "RE:" | In response to Reply # 14bga123 Nikonian since 04th Dec 2002Mon 24-Feb-03 09:57 PM
I recently discovered a noise reduction application called Neat Image. It does an incredible job eliminating the digital noise associated with digital images and JPEG induced artifacts. Additionally, it allows for some great intelligent sharpening. The results are beautiful. I found it especially useful in nature scenes with alot of sky or on portraits as a way of softening the incredible detail the Nikon D100, DX1 captures. Check the comparison of several products in this category of noise reduction at
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