Okay, here's a question for all you D1 and digital experts around here. The newspaper I work for recently bought us a D1 and, I confess, I've avoided using it to shoot basketball games because a couple of others (namely, the paper's previous chief news photographer, who recently left, and new chief news photographer) tried shooting games with available light and ended up with a grayish cast and little contrast in their photos. I've been sticking with my F3 for the time being. Last week, a sports writer took it to a game and used flash and the photos turned out fine. My question is, what were the guys using available light doing wrong and how can I correct it so I can feel comfortable using it for my indoor sports photos?
Thanks for your help!
#1. "RE: D1 for indoor sports" | In response to Reply # 0AlanC Basic MemberMon 05-Feb-01 05:02 PM
I've seen that myself on occasion, but it's usually been down to errors on my part - getting something very bright (like one of the lights) in the shot while using matrix metering. If you check the histogram (Custom Function 27 set to 1 or 3) after taking such a shot then you can see the cause of problem: there's a sharp spike at the white end of the scale while all the rest of the data gets compressed into a narrow band - hence the flat look.
One other thing to watch out for if you're shooting under any form of fluorescent lights (or others that flicker at 60Hz) is that the D1's auto white balance sometimes seems to get confused - it's best to use the manual setting.
#2. "RE: D1 for indoor sports" | In response to Reply # 1Rick Wiese Basic MemberTue 06-Feb-01 05:25 AM
I'll try to take it out for a few test shots this week. I know those guys were using matrix metering and auto on the white balance. I know the photos one of our photographers took about a week-and-a-half ago had that sharp spike when the levels were adjusted in photoshop. Maybe I'll switch to center-weighted, since it always gives me excellent results with my F3, and set the camera manually for the flourescent lights. We'll see what happens. Take care and thanks again!
#3. "RE: D1 for indoor sports" | In response to Reply # 2cordest Basic MemberTue 26-Feb-02 07:46 PM
I'll add a new one here. Technically it's about the D1H, but still along the same subject. I've just switched from the tied-down, restricting world of film ( ) to digital with the purchase of a D1H. I was out shooting an indoor roller hockey game last week and had an issue with white balance. Prior to shooting I switched the WB to Flourescent because of known problems with Auto WB. Some shots were on the money, others were no where near.
After looking around the rink, I realized that the lighting was a mixture of what I believe to be Flourescent, Sodium and some other vapor type. Actually I'm guessing at the types by lights by the colors visible to the naked eye and resulting images.
Think Auto WB might help here? I'm going to try it this weekend, but if that doesn't work, I'll probably use a manual preset.
#5. "RE: D1 for indoor sports" | In response to Reply # 3AlanC Basic MemberWed 27-Feb-02 04:57 PM
There's another possible problem here as well: some types of mercury vapour lights flicker at 60Hz and the colour of the light they emit varies greatly through the cycle. If you've got a high enough shutter speed then you could be catching this effect and getting some very odd colours.
As kntfst says below preset white balance and/or a flash are your best bet.
#4. "RE: D1 for indoor sports" | In response to Reply # 0
Using Preset WB setting and a gray card, will get WB on the mark. Without a Gray card, sometimes find someone wearing white clothing, set the preset WB on them.
Fast lenses is best choice for indoor arenas. ISO800 and post image batching with noise reduction, some contrast and some saturation.
Can get satisfactory images with ISO1600, but post image processing is a must. With Noise, Contrast, and Gamma adjustments. Any banding occuring at ISO1600 will be eliminated with the contrast adjustment.
Theres batch programs that'll make things faster, then adjusting one image at a time. Bibble, EyeBatch and Jasc Image Robot to name a few.
The SB28dx will be a workhorse providing enough light, even with slow lenses. TTL Matrix mode, with WB on flash setting. Can use S Mode set for 350/sec and ISO400 for slow lenses. Higher Shutter speed for fast Lenses, still use ISO400.
In all cases use Lens hood, all the lighting plays heck on the filter.