300mm F4 AFS & 80-200mm F2.8 AFS
Just got my 300mm today sure looks sassy!
However in the instructions it says DON'T use with the TC20e but of course that was a red rag to the bull and i did worked fine a bit slower but fine. Usually they say that use is not recommended or that manual focus is the only option but this states it as a definite no no. Anyone know why it seemed fine to me and i could not see it causing any damage (no touching elements etc) can you?
Secondly i have been dissapointed by the performance of my 80-200mm AFS wide open at airshows, obviously there is a lot of sky in the shots and the light falloff in the corners is terrible!(i live in England with our weather stopping down isn't always an option!) both with and without a TC20e, worse without though not gone as stated in some revews i have seen on the net. Yes i have a uv on there but it is a hoya pro one and they don't come much thinner than that! Would i be better off trading for a 180mm F2.8D and maybe an 85mm F1.8D as i always seem to tend between the extremes of the zoom anyway, so do these shafties track well and keep focus ok and what are they like for corner falloff.
cheers in advance jules
#1. "RE: 300mm F4 AFS & 80-200mm F2.8 AFS" | In response to Reply # 0jules Basic MemberTue 07-Aug-01 04:09 PM
Also i was wondering how much a Kenko 1.4 pro 300 converter was in the U.S.A. I emailed THK over here in England and all their converters are of the old shaft driven focus variety only. I think i would like the versatility of the Kenko converter also it is somthing you don't tend to upgrade every day, are the optics on these up to scratch?
#2. "RE: 300mm F4 AFS & 80-200mm F2.8 AFS" | In response to Reply # 0
My 300 works perfectly fine with the tc20e and is also the recommended TC, however the TC201 is not usable. The 80-200 performance is quite good wide open for sharpness with wonderful clarity and work very well with all the 2x converters I have tried including the kenko. I am not sure why you have so much light fall off, consider removing any filters, thiness is not the issue it is the contruction that matters. Take a look at the viewfinder while pressing the DOF button and selecting different apertures to see how much ,if any, LFO you see, but you will need a 100% viewfinder. I do not normally comment on LFO as I have yet to get any with 80-200. I sold the the 180 for 80-200 and there is no way I am going back. However the 180 does have better contrast and is little sharper wide open, so this lens may be beneficial to you...it is also a lot handier.