F5 metering questions- New F5 Owner
I just bought a Nikon F5 after learning on a N80 for a few years. I can't believe the quality of this camera; it is by far the nicest camera I've ever held. At $360 from KEH the price is a steal!
The main reason why I bought the F5 was for its meter. I plan on shooting alot of slide film and need accuracy. I know the F5 also checks its shutter speed on startup, how do I know if my shutter speed is accurate?
The N80's meter often required compensation for certain scenes (snow, overcast, ect) What are some scenes that you would compensate for on the F5? Do snow scenes require compensation? I'm trying to get an idea how the F5's meter compares to the almost fool proof meters of nikon dslr's.
I also bought a Nikon SB28 flash. Do you have any tips for using it? Is compensation required when bouncing or does the camera know? Do you use full auto or TTL mode?
Thank you all for the help in advanced,
Lastly my main lens is a Tokina ATX Pro SV 28-70mm f/2.8. Does anyone know if this is an AF-D lens? I can't find an answer on the internet.
#1. "RE: F5 metering questions- New F5 Owner" | In response to Reply # 0Len Shepherd Nikonian since 09th Mar 2003Tue 06-Dec-11 11:06 AM
Specifically on matrix metering the F5 (and F100) generally get sunlit snow accurate to within a third of a stop - slightly better than my old Weston with invercone.
If there is no sun on snow matrix generally needs the usually plus exposure for a white subject.
As another guide for scenes with more than 33% sky, matrix tends to expose for the land - I prefer minus a third of a stop for these scenes.
Photography is a bit like archery. A technically better camera, lens or arrow may not hit the target as often as it could if the photographer or archer does not practice enough.
#2. "RE: F5 metering questions- New F5 Owner" | In response to Reply # 0Umbanikon Registered since 09th Jul 2004Wed 07-Dec-11 08:03 AM
First, congrats for picking up one of the world's finest film cameras for a "steal" of a price. I recently purchased my 2nd F5 body for under $500 in new condition.
I agree with Len S. in regard to overly bright or dark scenes. Here in Florida, with the clear blue skies and the ocean, when shooting scenics,I oftentimes dial in a +1 on the exposure compensation dial when utilizing matrix metering. At dawn/dusk, when shooting around darker overall scenes,I dial in -1. I find this does the job 95% of the time when shooting Velvia 100.
Too,it is a good idea to "dial-in" your F5's metering system. In one of my F5 bodies I set the ASA dial to 160 (for Velvia 100)and at 200 for the 2nd body. These settings give me the best overall exposure for Velvia 100.
Enjoy your new F5...it is a marvelous piece of equipment.
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#3. "RE: F5 metering questions- New F5 Owner" | In response to Reply # 0jrp Charter MemberFri 09-Dec-11 05:56 PM | edited Fri 09-Dec-11 06:01 PM by jrp
Congratulations on your purchase.
The F5 is an incredible machine.
My partner Bo has two bodies.
On my F5, as well as on the F6 and all bodies I use after them, for me the trick is simply to remember to be aware of the type of scene and change the metering mode accordingly.
Portraits: Center Weighted
Extreme closeups: Spot. (On the highlight areas to avoid blowouts)
That does it for me. The metering is superb.
When shooting slides I always overexposed, by overriding the AUTO ISO reading on the film cassette. For example, Velvia 100 at 80. But that is a personal taste, even when shared by many.
On flash, with the SB-28 I always used TTL as my preferred mode, but flash is better when bouncing it or using a flash diffuser.
Have a great time :-)
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#4. "RE: F5 metering questions- New F5 Owner" | In response to Reply # 0f5nikon Registered since 04th Dec 2011Sun 11-Dec-11 07:07 PM
So what I gathered is the Matrix Metering will underexpose a very bright scene (lots of sky) and overexpose scenes that are meant to be dark.
Does this also effect scenes with overcast skies? The N80 matrix always got these wrong.
Where should I start with flash compensation when using a bounce flash?
Also is there a way to tell by looking at the lens if its AF-D?