Sat 16-Jan-10 03:53 AM | edited Fri 05-Feb-10 07:11 AM by Kilted_F3_nut
So, what has everyone picked up in the last month or so?
Latest thing that came in, was a black Nikkormat FT2 with 50f2 Nikkor-H and an instruction book. Got it for the cost of shipping. eBait auction was ended early, due to someone mentioning that the instruction book was for an FTn. Bid price was $6.00, plus $10 via Parcel Post, but the seller decided to mail it Priority instead. So, I got the camera, lens, and book for 70 cents.
Got a chrome FT2 prior to that, for $21.45... Currently having that one refoamed and will be sending it out as the replacement Beatermat 2.0.
The rest of my scores have been mentioned previously, except for the 50f1.4 AI that I got for $50, plus tax, and some various lens caps, etc...
Sat 16-Jan-10 03:20 AM | edited Sat 16-Jan-10 03:30 AM by rectangularimage
Just received a 55mm Micro f3.5 AI for $73 (auction). Oh, and the seller didn't mention that it's pristine. I unwrap the bubble wrap, see this new looking lens and think "OK, what's the catch? Rough focus? Scratched glass?" But there was no catch. It's really like new. Just an ebay fluke. One of my best ebay deals ever.
OTOH: a few days ago received a 35mm f2 AIS advertised as "mint" and it wasn't close to mint. Sent it back, so I'm out some shipping costs. But summing the 2 transactions I feel very much ahead.
Added insult to injury.. I posted a topic about what was in your closet, admitting to owning two 43-86 zooms. Then I saw the topic on how handy the little EM was, then the NAS kicked in. I thought what better match for a mediocre lens than a mediocre body. Then I remembered there were three so-so small bodies EM, FG & FG20... More NAS!!! Bottom line, for about $150.00 I now have all three and a 3rd 43-86 to make the set, in a mediocre way, complete. They all seem to work just fine, save for the EM's rewind button, it doesn't seem to want to pop out on it's own.. Well it was only $30.00.
Well, I done did it again. Picked up a really beat black F2 body (#728xxxx) as a parts camera for my F2A. Am migrating the nicer parts over from it to mine. It is fully functional however, so I will be probably selling it to a friend so he can start on his journey with Nikon (currently shoots a Konica Autoreflex TC with some lenses). If he doesn't take it, however, I'll then hunt down an equally beat DE-1 or a DW-1 and use it as a macro rig with my 55f2.8 AIS and an M2 ring.
Am also high bidder on a black FM2n that needs some help and some more FT series 'mats...
Just received my first film camera, an FE, bought from a fellow nikonian. Also I'm waiting for the 50mm f/1.8 series E to arrive. Paid $37.00 on ebay. Hopefully it is as described (the seller offer 30 days warranty on all his items and look like a reputable ebayer).
Can't wait to go out and shoot my first film. ________________ IOAN "... stand still, and consider the wondrous works of God" - Elihu My SmugMug Gallery
Since my last post I got an FM chrome for $49, it has some engraved numbers, small ones, but for the price I think is a good acquisition. ________________ IOAN "... stand still, and consider the wondrous works of God" - Elihu My SmugMug Gallery
Recently, three different individuals gave me the following;
FM body with Nikkor 50mm 1.8
FG body with no name 80~200 4.5, and Sigma 28 2.8.
I grabbed an MD-12 for $45.00 a a photo swap meet, and paid my tool and die maker guy $75.00 to machine another wrist strap anchor plate. I made up the wrist strap from spare nylon strapping and sewed it to the anchor plate, and attached the drive to one of the bodies and attached the anchor plate to the bottom of the drive. Done and done. Now what am I going to do with all the extra bodies and lenses I've got lying around that I'll never use??????
Wound up adding another 'mat (an FT3 in chrome that needs baseplate removal, then removal of the stuck battery cap), an SB-17, a really beat up F2 Photomic with dead meter cells (purchased mainly as parts for my F2A, but wound up being mechanically good), and a black FM2n with 50f1.8 Series E that needs some work, but is useable. Also got a Nikkormat neveready case for the FT2 that I'm keeping, and a Vivitar 283.
Was an impulse John ... got to stop that kinda feelings.. times are very harsh and terrible.. but was such a good opportunity... I sense that the good times are not coming back they way they used to be... and even when good deals show up.. One can just Not afford them.. because One is just broke... we must reduce our standards (we assume, energy, watter, Internet, TV, cable, refrigerators, etc., etc. being the common base... right?) because on the other parts of the world others need (and will) to improve theirs...
On the good side all my RF's and SLR's have a good place to be stored.. when not in use.
I will settle for a big while now... this was my only crazy acquisition for a year... in fact I don't need anything else... with an exception of a Nikon SPD...and the "need" is more a "Want".
>Bought a Nikkormat FTN body in very good condition. Paired it >with a 50mm 1.4 "S" that I built out of two bad >lenses. Good looking setup. > >There was no battery with the camera. Being a mercury cell, >I'm guessing they're no longer available. What's the >replacement?
>>There was no battery with the camera. Being a mercury >cell, >>I'm guessing they're no longer available. What's the >>replacement? > >I think this works: > >www.adorama.com/BYPX625W.html?kbid=912610 > >...Mike
The other possibility is to take the camera to a repair shop and have them recalibrate it to the 1.5 volt batteries, and just use a S625PX battery, which is the silver-oxide version. My FTn is currently being recalibrated to the 1.5 volt battery. Consists of the installation of a diode in the meter circuit between the battery box and the movement assembly. If the body is in nice shape, it may be worth doing that, so you're not loading a new zinc-air battery every couple months or so.
I also had the same thing done on my F's Photomic FTn finder.
>The other possibility is to take the camera to a repair shop >and have them recalibrate it to the 1.5 volt batteries, and >just use a S625PX battery, which is the silver-oxide version. >My FTn is currently being recalibrated to the 1.5 volt >battery. Consists of the installation of a diode in the meter >circuit between the battery box and the movement assembly. If >the body is in nice shape, it may be worth doing that, so >you're not loading a new zinc-air battery every couple months >or so. > >I also had the same thing done on my F's Photomic FTn finder. > >-J
Thanks. I'll consider that after I see how much I use the camera.
>The other possibility is to take the camera to a repair shop >and have them recalibrate it to the 1.5 volt batteries, and >just use a S625PX battery, which is the silver-oxide version. >My FTn is currently being recalibrated to the 1.5 volt >battery. Consists of the installation of a diode in the meter >circuit between the battery box and the movement assembly. If >the body is in nice shape, it may be worth doing that, so >you're not loading a new zinc-air battery every couple months >or so.
They only last a few months, if you're using the equipment normally and don't cover up the holes. With bodies like the Nikkormat FT and the FTn, you can get away with the MR9 adapter from Criscam.com, but, the F Photomic FTn finder puts too much of a strain on the adapters, so the meter winds up being very erratic in function at best. Just uses too much power in various light levels.
Early in February 2010 a friend offered me her Nikon F standard prism body and two lenses for a price too good to refuse. She bought it new and has used it for the past 42 years. The lenses are the Nikkor-S 50mm f/1.4 and a Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5. I have always wanted one of these cameras, and I am really enjoying shooting film using the "sunny 16" rule. This was a great purchase!
Thu 04-Mar-10 06:58 AM | edited Wed 02-Jun-10 01:11 AM by Kilted_F3_nut
Nice F. I'm envious of the eyelevel prism. Got a couple sharper photos of it? Almost looks like the PC socket has been updated to the later style.
Anyway, latest acquisitions over the past couple weeks:
The aforementioned Nikon FM2n with 50f1.8 Series E - black body, needed some repairs, but useable as is. Also previously mentioned Nikkormat FT3 chrome - donated to a friend as a project for him to learn how to recalibrate meters and refoam bodies, etc Nikon MD-11 - for above FM2n Nikkor 35-105 AIS zoom - trade fodder, along with SB-17 for below Nikkor-NC 24f2.8 with factory AI conversion ring.
Also repurchased an AI'd 50f2 Nikkor-H that I got a few months ago. Had traded it for a different 50f2 when I noticed that it had hazy elements. Was going to buy it for the AI ring for the lens that came with my FT2, but, the shop had cleaned the elements, so it didn't make sense to swap rings.
Still waiting on an F3 motor drive port cap. That way, I can dismount the MD-4 and not be concerned at all about any light leaks.
Stuff that I'm still looking for are a 35f2 Nikkor-O with AI ring, maybe a 105f2.8 Micro AIS, a 300f4.5 EDIF AIS that doesn't have mold growth on it, a MD-2/MB-1 combo for my F2A, and a working F36 drive with cordless pack for my F.
Sat 06-Mar-10 01:55 AM | edited Sat 06-Mar-10 10:40 PM by RidinRev66
Thank you John, I don't think there has been anything done with the PC socket. I have used it with flash and works well. I always have trouble resizing pictures to post on this site. If you have a suggestion how I could improve that I will post some sharper shots. Happy shooting! Phil
Do you have photoshop? If so, try resizing the images, so they're 512 pixels on the short side. The site should be happier. Or, if you want, email me the high-res photo, and I can resize it to a smaller size.
Sat 06-Mar-10 05:06 PM | edited Sat 06-Mar-10 05:27 PM by RidinRev66
Hey John, I used your suggestion above and added a much clearer attachment showing the detail a lot better. This F body is really in Like New condition, and the mechanics work correctly also. There is something very compelling about shooting an all manual camera, with absolutely no batteries at all! My other relic is the first SLR I bought when I was in high school - a 1963 Zeiss Ikon Contaflex Super. It is still in Like New condition as well. Thanks Phil
Got an 50mm f/2.8 micro from KEH, for $133. I need to get both caps and is ready to go. I heard only good things about this lens, so I am so excited to go try it. ________________ IOAN "... stand still, and consider the wondrous works of God" - Elihu My SmugMug Gallery
I got a like new FE2 from KEH two weeks ago. It works fine and is a great camera just to hold. It is small and has a solid feel to it that is so unlike the current cameras, which are heavy, but somehow don't feel the same. I have a 28mm F2.8 Ais lens currently on it, also bought from KEH a few months ago. It will join my Ftn, F2S, and FM.
The MD-1 was the original drive for the F2, which didn't have the pilot LED on the back of the drive, nor the contacts for the MF-3 leader out film back. It was originally sold with the MB-1 battery pack only, which takes 10 AA's.
The MD-2 is identical to the MD-1, except for three externally visible differences, that being the LED, the contacts, and the firing button was changed from a toggle style switch to a normal circular button. The firing button assemblies can be swapped, so sometimes you'll see an MD-1 with the later button. The MD-2 was most commonly sold with the MB-1, but, sometimes has been found with the MB-2, which takes 8 AA's.
The MD-3 is more like an MD-12 in that it doesn't rewind film. It's usually found with the MB-2.
Later MD-2's and all MD-3's have nylon drive gears, which, as they age, tend to get stripped, which will make the drive sound like it's quacking like a duck.
In other news, the F2A developed a very peculiar problem last night. Began very intermittently firing the shutter when you'd depress the DOF preview button. So, I purged the body itself without finder and screen, and swapped that for my old F2 body, which had been sitting at Kenmore Camera since July. Let them keep the DP-1 finder and the A screen, and transferred the DP-11, P screen, AR-1 soft shutter release, and the PC socket cap to the old F2. Said F2 was originally an F2A, but I sold it as an F2 Photomic, since I needed money from the sale of the DP-11 earlier that month. Then, I came across a mint condition FM2n that I couldn't live without, and traded the F2 for it.
Nikomat FTn developed a problem called "sticky post" where the meter needle sometimes doesn't come off the full underexposure post unless the meter is exposed to very bright light, then it will react. Traded it, plus some other items toward the FT2 overhaul job.
Also picked up three Nikkors since that post (and got rid of one). A 35f2 Nikkor-O that I'd owned for a week or two a couple years ago. Needs AI conversion for use on all the Nikons. Second was a 135f3.5 Nikkor-Q that was fairly early. Came with box and bubble, plus some paperwork. Diaphragm was slow. Sold it today. Third lens is a pretty nice 35f2.8 Nikkor-S that will probably remain non-AI.
Body-wise, my black F now has an eyelevel finder (chrome, but diopter-capable, and in pretty nice shape). Paid $49.50, plus tax for it. To provide a home for my FTn finder, my old chrome F, from May 2007 came back home today. I also have a black regular back for the black body, so it can be small again when I want it to be. Third body that recently arrived is a black Nikkormat FT3 that I got off APUG. Needs some help, but is functional. It might wind up becoming an FT2, since the meter coupling ring is sticky, and it might be easier to just swap FTn/FT2 parts onto the body than to fix the AI system on it.
An update: Due to my needing an AF Nikkor, the black FT2 and the 35/2.8 Nikkor-S are gone. Replaced with a 28-70 f3.5-4.5 AF-D Nikkor. The black FT3 is parts fodder, due to severe meter issues. Picked up a chrome FT2 to replace it. This body has a decent meter, but one that reads two stops underexposure. So, ISO 100 is an indicated ISO 25. Also received ol' "sticky post", so the aforementioned black FTn is back in my hands. Got an unknown condition chrome FTn coming from evilBay, which will likely donate parts to the FTn and the FT2.
Chrome late model FM2n. My black FM2n has been intermittently advancing the film without needing the shutter to be fired. I think I've repaired it, but, I want a shop to look at it and make sure that it's functioning properly. So, while that's going on, I picked up a somewhat cosmetically challenged chrome FM2n that works fine.
It's due to crud building up on the post that the needle rests against when it's turned off. Literally becomes sticky. Usually the shop will clean that up when they do a meter overhaul. A meter overhaul usually runs about $98 or so through the shop I use, but, they will usually throw in the schottky diode for free @ the same time, making it possible to use the PX625A and S625PX batteries without exposure compensation.
I'd check with KEH. They'll probably be close enough that you can drop the camera off in person for a meter job, or, if you want, a full overhaul.
Latest new arrival came at the cost of a 50/1.4 Nikkor AI, 24/2.8 Nikkor-NC AI'd, a 200/4 AI, and a MD-4. 300/4.5 EDIF AIS Nikkor. I also added an AF lens, but, that's not really within scope of the forum.
FM2 Black with a 50mm series E f1.8, bought yesterday for GBP £89.00. Seems to be in full working order so today I purchased a roll of film! and orderd a Nikon DK-3 rubber eye cup for it. I have no idea why I did these things,but my 35mm f2 AIS complete with the HN-3 hood looks and feels great on it.
I'd contact KEH first, if you haven't already. They're somewhat close. Then, there's marmot5767 on evilbay, who, IIRC, is somewhere in the NE.
If neither one is interested, there are a couple shops here in the Seattle area that might take it on.
Camera Clinic, 206-367-2440. Doug Daley is the owner. Hours are 10 am - 2 pm PDT, Tuesday-Saturday. Tell him that John from Duvall, WA sent you.
Northwest Camera Repair, 425-252-0932. Scott Crisman is the owner. Hours are 10 am - 5 pm PDT Mon-Fri.
The problem with the EL and the ELw is that most of the electronics are hardwired, instead of mounted to a flex circuit, so diagnosing electrical faults can be nightmarish. That may be why no one wants to work on it. I know that Doug says that it's a painful experience to work on one, and he'll only do it if the owner's attached to the camera in some manner and if it's in decent shape otherwise.
>I'd contact KEH first, if you haven't already. They're >somewhat close. >The problem with the EL and the ELw is that most of the >electronics are hardwired, instead of mounted to a flex >circuit, so diagnosing electrical faults can be nightmarish. >That may be why no one wants to work on it. I know that Doug >says that it's a painful experience to work on one, and he'll >only do it if the owner's attached to the camera in some >manner and if it's in decent shape otherwise.
Thanks, I'm still debating whether to try to get the EL fixed or not. In the meantime, I have acquired an F3 that could really use a CLA and new seals. Plus it shuts down after a bit of use, too, which I only found out after taking it out for an extended shoot. The film counter won't reset, either, possibly related to the seals. I didn't pay much for it so it's probably worth the repair, and it's in pretty good cosmetic shape. Who does a really good job with F3s?
I'd look into either Northwest Camera Repair or Camera Clinic, if you don't mind shipping the body to the other corner of the country. Northwest did my F3P this summer. Did a decent job at a fair price for the full overhaul. Does the camera seem to shut down if a MD-4 is attached? Or does it only do it when running off the internal batteries? My body did have a wire going to the battery chamber that was intermittently making contact.
>I'd look into either Northwest Camera Repair or Camera >Clinic, if you don't mind shipping the body to the other >corner of the country. Northwest did my F3P this summer. Did >a decent job at a fair price for the full overhaul. Does the >camera seem to shut down if a MD-4 is attached? Or does it >only do it when running off the internal batteries? My body >did have a wire going to the battery chamber that was >intermittently making contact.
I haven't tried it with the MD-4, that's a good thought. Hopefully it's something simple like that wire. Thanks for the pointer.
Sat 21-Aug-10 01:08 PM | edited Sun 22-Aug-10 12:26 AM by tfb666
>Does the camera seem to shut down if a MD-4 is attached? Or does it >only do it when running off the internal batteries? My body >did have a wire going to the battery chamber that was >intermittently making contact.
Good call on this one. I tried it last night with the MD-4 and it works flawlessly. Take off the MD-4 and it works only intermittently. Seems I have a battery contact/wire problem, which is way better than a problem with the internal electronics. Thanks!
Well, cool. You might be able to just move the wire around a little under the baseplate and get it to make good contact. On mine it was the ground wire that wasn't always making contact. Worth checking out.
As I have a couple of FE2's, I have been trolling for an MF-16 Data back that I recently acquired from a popular auction site for a song. Unfortunately (or not), while searching for said MF-16, I found a late number FM2n that showed promise. So now I am the proud owner of both. I really needed the FM2n though (I say to myself), as my '78 vintage FM had a warning label the last time it came back from the shop. "Use sparingly and Gently" it said. As it was nearly my sole camera for over 20 years, I guess I can't complain. One daughter has reciprocated recently with the gift of an N65 with a 70-300G lens, a gift from a now obsolescent boyfriend. So I have some new skills to learn and equipment to master. I feel guilty admitting the N65 is kind of fun, I like all the whirring busy noises and the photos aren't too bad. Integral flash, what's the world coming to?
Does a long term loaner finally coming back count? If so, I got back my old FT3 kit from a student who had moved away. I had given up on ever seeing it again, but it came back in fine shape and with the whole kit intact. Even if it doesn't count, it's still a treat.
Picked up an F2 Photomic with finder and battery box issues for $35. I mounted my waist level finder on it and use a light meter as everything else is fine. I might even hunt for an eye level finder for it. These fancy new cameras with built in light meters take all the challenge out of photography anyway.
In my case, I've done a bunch of horse trading recently. Sold my minty F4 with MF-23 and my Nikomat FT2 with a couple 50mm Nikkors to get a Hasselblad 500c/m with 80/2.8 T* Planar. That said, I just replaced both bodies with an F4s and a Nikomat FTn. I also picked up a black FTn finder that I had overhauled for my F, and a DW-2 6x magnification finder for $35.00.
D1H, F4s, F2AS, F FTn, Nikomat FTn - John Laughlin Photography - nature photographer
I wasn't going to say anything because I feel kind of sheepish, but, well....
My name is Stephen and I have a NAS problem.
I've been away (from photography, and from Nikonians) for a couple of years. Not really shooting much, and hadn't bought any gear for a whopping two years. But I just re-upped my membership because I missed being able to relate to people who could understand my affliction.
I confess to being somewhat of a camera collector. Yes, shooting is nice too, but I just have a thing for a well-designed hunk of metal. Same reason I like watches, I guess. Electronics or not, if it functions well and is elegantly designed, it appeals to me. You'd think five Nikon bodies would be enough, but no. Sigh.
A couple of weeks ago, it was my birthday. Also, I have a vacation planned, which as you all know is one of the best reasons for going out and buying some gear. I made the mistake of surfing KEH and discovering that they were (in my mind) practically giving away F3HP's in "EX+" condition. Hmm, tho I have two MF bodies, two AF, and a digital, I don't have an MF with auto-exposure. Hey, the F3 was the pinnacle of that! I really need one of those!
It arrived last week. With MD-4. Dunno if it takes good photos yet as I'm on the first roll (higher collector-to-shooter ratio than I care to admit), but it sure makes an impressive sound! Love the size, love the weight, love it! Oh, and a SB-17 is coming soon, too.
Don't feel bad. I just picked up an FE about three days ago. Had an issue that prevented the camera from firing after being wound up. Fixed it, and now have pressed it into service as an autoexposure MF Nikon. Now, get out there this weekend and shoot that F3...
D1H, F4s, F2AS, F FTn, FE, Nikomat FTn - John Laughlin Photography - nature photographer
My new F3 arrived on Saturday (and with new, I mean NEW: out of the box!). I will go and fetch the 50 mm f/1.4 AI-s tomorrow morning, right in time for my business trip to northern Italy, with some XP2 in the bag for first test shots.
I had a F3 a few years ago and was stupid enough to sell it. Now, having gone back to film for at least half of my shots, I exchanged the RB67 for the F3 body and the lens. The RB67 is a great camera, but also a very huge and heavy one. Since I got me a Rolleiflex TLR (and a Rolleicord Vb backup), it sat in my office. On some occasions I miss the wide angle lenses and the option to focus very near, but since I never had the RB with me when I would have needed it, I finally decided to switch back to the F3.
Sat 06-Nov-10 11:02 AM | edited Sat 06-Nov-10 11:08 AM by Leonard62
In the last month I picked up two beauties from KEH, the AIS 100-300mm zoom and the Series E 75-150mm zoom. I also found a 6T close up lens which works perfectly on the 100-300mm. These two lenses also shatter the myth that you need AFS, VR, and N coated lenses with the D3X. The photos are just fine and very sharp, thank you.