Trying the removal of part of the fence.
The tutorial says easy and done in seconds
so what I'm doing wrong here?
I've tried for about 5 minutes so I'm not
doing something right or even wrong tool.
Also can i like start over from beginning and not lose
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#1. "RE: CaptureNX2" | In response to Reply # 0mklass Nikonian since 08th Dec 2006Fri 16-Aug-13 09:26 PM
Capture NX2 is not very good at cloning out objects. It's OK for removing small spots, but it just doesn't work on things like this. You need Photoshop, or some other pixel editor.
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#3. "RE: CaptureNX2" | In response to Reply # 0
Cloning in Photoshop is definately the better choice, but you can achieve some very good results within CNX2. Here are the before and after versions of a street in NYC. You have to experiment with different techniques of applying the tool - longer stroke or spot application, etc. and I like to work in multiple steps to allow for easy retreat when you want to try a slightly different method.
Your shot is difficult in part because of the amount of material to remove and the slender, more delicate nature of the legs near the posts. I tried a little work on the left side of your low res shot where you hadn't already tried. I couldn't restore the left foreleg, but got rid of a good part of the rail. I think that with the higher res version the results would have been much smoother.
I think Moose Peterson has (or at least had) a very good tutorial on the tool on his website. Helped me quite a bit.
Good luck and keep trying.
Ralph in CT
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#4. "RE: CaptureNX2" | In response to Reply # 0
I agree with Mick - this is beyond the normal capability of Capture NX2.
Capture NX2 is better for removing items that are easily identified - not replacing complex backgrounds. For example, it easily removes the light posts in the background. It can also remove the vertical posts holding up the fence rail. But it is very difficult to remove the thick rail across the horse since there is so much detail that needs to be replaced.
Generally, break your cloning into smaller steps or sections. The UNDO command is not very good with cloning and tends to remove the entire step. To avoid losing your work, break up cloning into multiple edit steps.
The direction of your cloning brush affects the detail removed and replaced. Try using spots with a single click. Try strokes from different directions. There is no clear guide - its trial and error.
Use color replacement (Control Points) to make the area being repaired similar to the background. It does not help much here, but could be useful.
Small blown highlights like sky coming through foliage or reflections - can be easily removed or corrected. Powerlines are easy. This edit would be hard in Photoshop because the content to be substituted is not obvious or available.
Photoshop and even Elements are good at cloning. This one though is a lot easier to remove the horses and riders than removing the fence. I'd remove a horse by shooting multiple frames and combining the images in Photoshop.
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#5. "RE: CaptureNX2" | In response to Reply # 4
#6. "RE: CaptureNX2" | In response to Reply # 4PAStime Nikonian since 10th Feb 2009Tue 20-Aug-13 08:48 AM
Photoshop's "content aware fill" is quite remarkable. You select an object in the photograph and then tell photoshop to fill it with what it thinks would be right. Sometimes you are done in 5 seconds! I don't know if it would do a good job on that rail. Just yesterday I changed the aspect ratio of a photograph to make it fit a particular frame. I did it by adding more sky at the top and more grass in the foreground using content aware fill.
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#8. "RE: CaptureNX2" | In response to Reply # 6PAStime Nikonian since 10th Feb 2009Tue 20-Aug-13 11:11 PM | edited Tue 20-Aug-13 11:48 PM by PAStime
For fun, I spent 1 minute in Photoshop on this image and created the following. I hand drew a selection around the front rail and then asked Photoshop to replace the selection with content aware fill. Not bad. If I knew what I was doing it would probably look quite good. Also, the next step would obviously be to touch it up.
Yes, one could do it in Capture NX2 but it would be more tedious.
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#7. "RE: CaptureNX2" | In response to Reply # 4
While I generally agree that the Photoshop cloning tool is overall better for what the op is trying to do, I have been successful in using the NX2 tool in removing large areas from an image, though I agree it is better suited for removing things like spots, poles, wires, etc. It is context aware, and because of this it sometime picks up info from the left or right especially if you are close to the edge of your image. So what works for me? First I blow up the image and use a small brush. If I am removing something I tend to work so that I am brushing into the area I want to remove and I do it in small strokes. I have also found when you get the kind of results you got, that I could continue to brush over the area with a slightly larger brush and it will eventually correct itself. I use this brush primarily for removing spots and small stuff or when I want the edit in the NEF rather than a TIFF. It does require patience for larger areas.
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