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How do I get sharper, in-focus pictures? Want to learn!

kodiak photo

Montréal, (Qc), CA
734 posts

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"RE: How do I get sharper, in-focus pictures? Want to learn!"

kodiak photo Silver Member Nikonian since 28th Feb 2013
Mon 13-May-13 09:47 PM

*
Hi Bruce,

I went through everything, but I cannot help you everywhere. Some
questions have scope outside my working strategies.

Here we go:


*********************
>1) Will tweaking the diopter help achieve, have any bearing on
>or aid this mission in any way? Did you leave it at the
>factory position?

The diopter permits me to use my cameras without having to use my glasses.
This, in no way, will affect anything else than my better perception of what is
in the viewfinder.

*********************
>2) AF-fine tune with each lens. Mandatory, optional or
>worthwhile? Is this difficult to do with a zoom lens? That's
>all I have. The manual recommends to leave it alone unless
>absolutely necessary. So, how do I know if it will help and if
>so how to properly utilize it for best results. Unfortunately,
>diagnostic testing (being a non-tech person in some respects)
>is not my forte.

Opinions vary greatly. MY experience is that some "by nobody
explainable" circumstances, I had to face fiddling with this quite
a bit. But now all is ok.

*******************
>3a) In camera sharpening. Just found out this existed! Applies
>only to JPEGS. Factory default seems to be 4. Sufficient as
>is? Boost a couple of notches? I use Vibrant.

I cannot answer this since I never shoot other than RAW.

********************
>3b) For RAW processing: How is Lightroom used to achieve a
>satisfactory degree of sharpness with noise/artifacts masked?
>What does clarity slider do compared to that of the sharpness
>section? What is the proper technique to obtain the right
>level and not overdo it? A online tutorial may well be in
>order.

I do not use LR!

*******************
>4) Do you use Mirror-up mode to get sharper shots? Does it
>really help?

I always use Mirror-Up when I shoot macro in studio because of
the proximity to the subject. Make sure, however, that your setup
is rock solid.

***********************
>Will this mode work with handheld shots?

It will work? Yes. But I fail to see how it would help.

*********************
>5) Does the Auto Distortion control have any relevance or
>potential impact?

I adopted the strategy that I do not leave any tempering duties to
the camera. It shall support me in my effort to get a good shot
but nothing else.


*********************
>6) Under what conditions/circumstances should I use manual
>instead of auto-focusing?

There are some "not so rare cases" where MF is a better option,
when you do not want the camera to refocus because you
reframed the picture, for instance.

***********************
>7) Disable in camera noise reduction? I never shoot at ISO's
>above 800. Does it really have any real significance at 100 or
>200? Anything appreciably to be gained here?

This is very complex and difficult. Most of those questions are
answered through experience, personal experience. First, use
your camera and, doing so, build up a "relation". Second, the
setup between the two of you will adapt to the different shooting
conditions you will face together. It is all experience.

***********************
>8) For the average enthusiast: At what shutter speed triggers
>the threshold/edge of shakiness?

Younger, i was bragging having good shots down to 1/8s. Today,
I would not even think shooting under 1/30s. Everyone has to
discover his/her "threshold/edge of shakiness"

I hope I could be of some help…

Kodiak
Groovy Shootings
Image Média
www.kodiakmedia.at


In photography, light is free but catching it is not!
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

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