>Straight ISO setting (with Auto apparently only available in P mode)
Auto ISO is available in all four modes - P, S, A and even M
Howard has explained below how it works. I would just emphasise (in case it isn't obvious) that Auto ISO always starts at the value you have previously selected, and gets adjusted (up or down) from there).
I've found this to be an extremely useful feature of recent Nikon DSLR's, once you understand how it is implemented. The DPR reviewer apparently didn't take the trouble to do that