>Heck of a pile of money for an "entry level" camera >body ....
The price of DSLR's are significantly more expensive than the equivalent film body. Considering that the F5 sold new for less than half the price of a new D2X or D3 body and about 2/3rds the price of a new D700. When you add 2 year production cycles for DSLR's and compare the 8 year production cycles for film bodies makes DSLR's cost even more.
>Actually, the silly part, IMHO, is that being able to tell the >camera body manually what lens aperture you're using, and let >it pick a shutter speed, or provide some kind of match-needle >style metering has to be about as simple a function as you >could ask for. My old SPIIa could do that, as can the N6006, >which isn't quite "entry level", but close. > >Come to think of it, my circa 1972 Exacta could do that - I've >still got a 500mm (Spiratone) tele (not a Cad) that uses two >rings - one to stop the lens down for metering, and a second >one to crank it back open for focusing. Ready to shoot, and >you turn the second ring to the stop. Not quick, but way >simpler than an automatic stopdown. The basic Exacta setup >used a preset lens well - same idea, except that pressing the >shutter button stopped the lens down, and you had to crank it >back open.
The 6006 was positioned above the N2020, and the N4004 and just behind the N8008. The N8008 was positioned just below the F4 series. When the N6006 was introduced, AF was still relatively new thus many buyers were transitioning from the MF bodies to AF bodies.
Keep in mind that the vast majority of entry level camera buyers never buy or use anything other than the kit lens that came with the camera. Most never add a Speedlight or other accessories either. Knowing this when Nikon set out to design the D40 to keep the price as low as possible, backwards compatibility and fully supporting MF lenses was not worth the added cost. Even the AF motor built into the body was ommitted to minimize the cost and therefore selling price. The lower price, helped to increase the number of units sold and improve the companies bottom line and market share.
>No need to tell the body what aperture you're using. The >meter is trying to hit a grey-scale point by looking at the >light coming in, and comparing that with the shutter speed >currently set. Letting it tell you to change the speed to get >closer, or to automatically set one it likes, would be >trivial.
Remember that the aperture diaphragm is always wide open regardless of aperture setting. The diaphragm only closes when the shutter is released or the DOF Preview button (if your camera has one) is pressed. Therefore the camera's metering system has to know what the aperture is set to.
>Aperture-priority mode needs to be smart enough to just tell >you if you hit a shutter speed it can't set - too fast, or too >long.... Manual mode ought to just tell you that you've >picked a shutter speed and aperture combo that is correct >(without really knowing what the aperture is).
>Now, I'm getting upset ....
No reason to get upset. It won't change anything.
>(Well, not really.... Just kind of funny to find a >"legacy" lens that will mount, but won't work at all >without an external meter, given that the one in the camera is >smarter than I am .)
There is always the Sunny 16 rule. Since the D60 is a digital body, you can use the histogram and the trial and error method to set the exposure. With a little practice you get very good at setting the correct exposure by eye. Remember when the Nikon F was introduced in 1959 it had a prism finder without any meter. Good Luck and Enjoy your Nikons!