I'm completely with Preston here. There is no silver bullet. I leave the "tone" on my D100 to normal and make final adjustments in PS.
By no means do I claim to be an expert at PS, but I have read a great deal of what Bruce Fraser has written, particularly his book "Real World Photoshop". He has a large section devoted to working with curves, and the time I spent reading that yielded an enormous return.
I make frequent use of the camera's histogram and highlight feature to make sure I'm not blowing out or grossly underexposed, and take care of the rest later.