tell a friend about this article
 

	Introduction
	Body & Lenses
	Built-in flash
	Autofocus
	Metering systems
	Camera controls
»	Controls - continued
	CSM - Custom settings
	Detailed images

Just to the right of the Auto Exposure Bracketing button is the "Flash-Sync Mode" button. (See picture above) This is used to set the way the built-in flash synchronizes itself with the shutter. If the flash-sync mode button is held down, and the rear command dial is rotated, the LCD panel will show a series of flash sync modes in succession. These are the available flash sync modes: Front-Curtain Sync, Slow Sync, Rear-Curtain Sync, Red-Eye Reduction, Red-Eye Reduction with Slow Sync.
 

Nikon N80 Bracketing (BKT) button .

The buttons that are used to cause a rewind are shown in the two pictures on the right. The Flash-Sync Mode button that we discussed above has a red rewind symbol beneath it.  Also, the LCD Backlight button next to the external LCD has a rewind symbol above it. When both of those buttons are held down for a few seconds, a rewind starts.
If the LCD Illumination button to the right of the LCD is pressed by itself, it turns on the LCD backlight. This is handy at night or in a darker area. Between the Off/On switch and the LCD you will note two additional buttons. (See picture above) The button just below the green dot is the "Exposure Compensation" button, and the one to the right of it is the "Flash Exposure Compensation" button.

The Exposure Compensation button is held in with your right index finger, while your right thumb sets the compensation value by rotating the rear Command Dial. You have +/- 3 EV of compensation in 1/2 step increments.

The Flash Exposure Compensation button works exactly the same way. Index finger and thumb work together to set flash compensation in 1/2 steps for up to +/- 3 EV.
 

Facing the front of the camera, and looking to the lower right, the "Focus-Mode Selector" switch is evident. This is used to select whether the camera stays in Continuous or Single Servo Autofocus, or in manual focus. (See picture at right) "S" or Single Servo auto-focus mode lets you focus only when you decide to, by pressing the shutter-release button down partially. It will not refocus on another subject until you release and repress the shutter-release button partially again.

"C" or Continuous Servo auto-focus mode is made for subjects in motion. When you initiate auto-focus by partially depressing the shutter-release, it latches onto your subject and "follows" them with accurate, sharp focus. If your subject is moving, then the complex computer inside the N80 automatically compensates the focus as the subject moves, amazingly staying right with them. This is a very powerful feature for those shooting sports, action, or wildlife images.

To the left of the "S" there is an "M" selection. Nikon colored this selection the same color as the camera body. I'm not sure if they did this so that amatuers would not notice it and accidentally set it there, or not, but setting the switch to M allows you to manually focus your camera. This completely disengages the focus motors in the camera body. In fact, and this is an important point...DO NOT MANUALLY FOCUS any AF lens while it is in "S" or "C" modes, since it is possible to strip out the small lens to body gears that cause the lens elements to move. If you do this, the lens or body can be damaged. Let me repeat this! Only manually focus an AF lens AFTER the Focus-Mode selector switch is set to "M" or Manual Mode. Don't ask me why I am warning you about this. It is too painful to relate! 

Some AF lenses have special provisions for manual focusing, even while in "S" or "C" modes. They have a special M/A switch on the lens itself that allows you to disengage the lens gears from the body focus motors. Most true macro lenses, such as the AF Micro Nikkor 60mm f2.8 lens has this feature.
 

The N80 also has the means to lock both the exposure and auto-focus, so that you can meter, focus, and shoot without worrying about the camera changing its settings. Notice in the piciture to the right that there is a button in the middle of the Metering System Selector (remember Matrix, Averaging, Spot). This button is labeled AE-L and AF-L.  This is called the "Auto Exposure / Autofocus Lock" button, and is used to lock both exposure and focus.

Custom Setting # 11 is used to turn off the Auto-focus lock, so that only the exposure is locked when you depress the button. (AE-Lock) This is the way I use this feature, and many others do to. If you prefer to lock both focus and exposure at the same time, that is fine, as long as you have a subject that will not move. If that is not the case, it is better to not lock the focus, since it can change quickly, while exposure usually stays close to the same, even with some movement of the subject. You will have to judge the way you want to use this button.

Also, notice in the picture above, that to the right of the eyepiece is a small knurled slider bar. This is a "Diopter Adjustment" for those who like to shoot without their glasses on. It allows you to adjust the view of the subject until it is sharp, even if you are not wearing glasses. This has nothing to do with the auto-focus system. It is merely there to make the viewscreen appear more or less sharp for those with eye difficulties.

IMHO, the Nikon N80 camera is an all-around winner. Few cameras on the market today have such a rich feature set, quality build, and reasonable price. As a primary or backup camera, the N80 has a distinct place. It fills the need as an advanced amateur's primary camera, and the professional's primary or backup camera. Why not get an N80 for yourself, and start bringing in more spectacular shots. My "good shot" ratio improved dramatically when I started using my N80. Yours will too! Take it with you everywhere, and you'll see what I mean.
.