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EPSON Stylus Photo R2880
review by Thomas Berg

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twberg
Nikonian in Germany
Tell a friend about this Epson R2880
review
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2. The hardware
arrives
EPSON Europe sent me one
of their devices out of the company's pool of printers, so it was
not exactly in the same condition as a brand new sample from the
local dealer. Namely, one partly used set of print cartridges was
already installed.
One particularly interesting feature of this
printer is the use of two different grey inks in addition to black.
These Light Key (LK) and LightLight Key (LLK) named non-colour inks
reflect the K in CMYK in more than a symbolic manner; they enable
composing black-and-white prints almost without the addition of
colour ink. Therefore, colour inks need to be added to B&W
prints only for correction of colour cast and only in homoeopathic
quantity.
This gives enough reason to expect an outstanding ability to
produce black-and-white prints.
2.1. Contents of
box and selection of paper media
The supplied box contained merely the printer along with a complete
set of spare ink cartridges in addition to the already installed
ink. Besides the extra ink, Epson generously supplied a large
variety of paper media, some in A4 size and others in A3 size for
this review. The exact paper types were:
Size DIN A4 (11.7 * 8.25 inch):
- Premium Glossy Photo Paper, wide colour
gamut
- Premium Luster Photo Paper, medium semi-gloss with
apparently highly isotropic texture, reflection and texture grain
don't exhibit any preference versus viewing direction
- Archival Matte Paper, absolutely white and “dead
matte” characteristic, no glance from any viewing angle,
media is not acid-free
- Premium Semi-gloss Photo Paper, EPSON label imprinted on
back side, fine grain texture, relatively matte compared to Luster
or Traditional, most silky-smooth appearance
- Traditional Photo Paper, most glossy of the semi-gloss
Epson papers, surface texture appears somewhat
“brushed” in portrait direction (longitudinal
structured), hence possibly less well suited for mixed
presentations of both portrait and landscape format
prints
Size DIN A3+ (19 * 13 inch):
- Premium Luster Photo Paper, see above
comment
- Traditional Photo Paper, see above comment
- Water Colour Paper Radiant White, a paper with slightly
yellowish tint and a texture that reminds me of the thick paper for
watercolour paintings during school time. Not acid-free and not
counting as “Fine Art” although you should feed it like
Fine Art media
- Enhanced Matte Paper, same “dead matte”
appeal as Archival Matte; actually at a very late stage of this
review I learned there are two names for one product
- Ultra Smooth Fine Art Paper, the name indicates it
already, this got to be the smoothest of all Epson Fine Art matte
papers. No visible texture or preference for reflection,
“dead matte”
- Velvet Fine Art Paper, a paper with a relatively strong
texture which reminds me more of hand-made paper than anything
velvet. Probably great for B/W portraits.
- I also received Premium Glossy Photo Paper in 16:9
aspect ratio, sized like a panoramic postcard (181 * 102
mm).
2.2. Hardware preparation
and installation
There is not much to say
about hardware preparation other than you will need to clear lot of
space on your desk. Actually, when in operation the printer
consumes about half of my desk or the equivalent of more than two
sheets of A3+ paper. Fortunately, the power supply input is done by
a socket which helps handling a lot. No hassle with firmly attached
cables. As for the data link, a standard USB cable with type B plug
for the printer is required. In order to maintain space on the desk
it might be a good idea to locate the printer on a separate shelf
and connect via long USB cable or wireless print
server.
Since my review sample arrived with pre-installed
ink cartridges, only the mains and data connections were necessary
to come to a working state. Not even a five-minute exercise until
operational readiness was achieved.
2.3. Printer driver basic
set-up
If one connects a new device to a Windows machine, the driver
wizard pops up. Upon recommendation by my EPSON representative, I
did not insert a driver CD but downloaded the latest drivers from
the EPSON website support section.
The minimum required part to be downloaded is the printer driver
itself; select your operating system from the drop-down list and
fetch the driver version with the highest version ID.
While you are there, also fetch the Print Plug-In for Photoshop
(assuming you work with Photoshop or PS Elements, otherwise it is
pointless).
And while you are still there, check if there are updated ICC paper
profiles which may be of interest for you.
Unzip the driver and invoke the installation (locate and click
Setup). Then follow the messages from the driver installation
routine and the Windows wizard, which will probably pop up again
once you printer is powered up again, as requested during the scan
for attached printers phase.
At the end of the short lasting installation, the R2880 is set as
default printer and ready for use. There is no need to reboot the
computer. The majority of EPSON paper profiles are automatically
installed during the printer driver setup. Updated or new profiles
may be installed (or manually copied, to be precise) separately
from downloadable ZIP files.
Windows7 (RC Build 7100) detects the attached printer and
immediately performs a driver installation, leaving the user the
impression that the downloadable EPSON driver is not required.
Wrong. Win7 treats the printer like a vintage ESC/P print language
device, which does by far not unleash the power of that printer.
Just install the downloaded driver package; it works almost as fine
as with XP and VISTA with the exception that the USB port scan of
the installation routine did not detect the printer so I had to
define the port manually. Slightly annoying, it was necessary to
switch to the Windows control panel and remove the “EPSON
ESC/P” printer from the list in order to make the R2880
appear properly. Hopefully this nuisance disappears from Win7
before the final version starts to sell.
For users of Photoshop, the free Print Plug-In is a very nice tool,
a must-have in my opinion.
On my machines, I installed it for both CS4 and Elements 6. In case
of doubt, the software should be installed in the
“Automation” folder of Photoshop and will be accessible
under “File - Automation - Epson Print Plug-In”.
It runs as a stand-alone application, fetches the selected pictures
into its browser panel (the leftmost window) and that's it for the
moment. I must admit, the appearance of the Print Plug-In is, at
first sight, just as puzzling as the first launch of Photoshop.
Lots of switches, checkboxes, dropdown lists and no clue what to do
next.
Well, I will have to find my way through it by means of the help
file, I suppose. Thanks to EPSON, the brand new Whitepaper provides
all instructions needed to get going and I will add some in
paragraph 3.2...
2.4. Starting up
the printer and initial test prints
Basic printing should not be a problem for anybody. It starts to
get challenging when a particular image needs to be transferred
onto paper while retaining the same striking appeal and emotion as
when you see it on the monitor. It takes quite a lot of steps to
perform that task satisfactorily, where colour management and
colour gamut of the involved devices are of key importance.
This review is not meant to provide a turn-key solution to setting
up colour management and enable printing all sort of pictures
flawless, however it is my goal to provide some recipes for
success.
Please have a look at the recent EPSON Whitepaper on Printers of
the UltraChrome K3 ink family, which guides you through the cliffs
and shoals of colour management settings in the bespoke
software.
It is quite essential to work with proper colour management
settings throughout the entire chain of image capture and
processing. The main reason is the mismatches in colour gamut
between most monitors (sRGB colour space) and ink printer
capabilities. Relative to sRGB and AdobeRGB gamut, ink printers
fall short in reproducing saturated cyan/blue and magenta colours;
this is why blue skies often appear much paler on the print than on
the monitor. There are ways to bypass that problem, which I will
discuss later. Also relative to sRGB colour gamut, ink printers
exhibit extended green-yellow colours, covering about the same
range as the AdobeRGB gamut. Basically, it makes sense to work in
AdobeRGB colour space rather than sRGB colour space in order to
exploit the full gamut provided by the printer.
Here you see a colour gamut visualization of sRGB and two R2880
paper profiles:
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EPSON Stylus R2880
- Paper Profile
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Before wasting the first sheet of paper, I ran a
nozzle check on the printer. It turned out that numerous nozzles of
the cyan (C) and Light Key (LK) ink were in bad state. In total,
the printer reported three ink cartridges as almost empty: LLK, LK
and C. The driver utility refused to perform a nozzle cleaning
session, so I had no alternative other than exchanging the empty
cartridges.
Cartridge exchange is quite easy, just follow the EPSON
instructions. Press the middle button with the droplet symbol, open
the top lid and wait for the carrier to reach parking position.
Unlatch the lid and extract the cartridge which is indicated by the
flashing LED. Fetch the replacement cartridge and shake it well
while the vacuum bag is still unopened. Shaking mixes pigments and
solvent nicely and ensures that potential pigment cluster formation
due to storage is dissolved. Then, rip the vacuum bag, remove the
yellow tape flag and insert the cartridge. This is a clean exercise
since the ink outlet of the cartridge is still covered by a
transparent foil. Don't remove that one, it gets automatically
perforated when the cartridge is inserted.
After ink replacement, I repeated the nozzle test twice, hoping
that I might get away with that but there were still missing lines
in the test print. So I invoked the nozzle cleaning, knowing that
this spills ink which is wasted forever. That helped, the final
nozzle test confirmed all nozzles to be working as expected. Of
course, for nozzle maintenance, regular copy paper is the best
choice.
All together, it took me six nozzle test cycles and one cleaning
cycle to be confidently prepared for the first real image printout.
Since such nozzle problem never re appeared during the evaluation
period, I assume this was triggered by the transportation with
empty cartridges, possibly allowing air to penetrate the print
head.
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