Flash
Guide - The Teddy Bears Test
by J. Ramón Palacios
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FINAL
NOTES
The
taking of flash pictures was a dreaded nightmare, seemed reserved
for the very few that made their living with it. Efficient slide
ruler handling and measuring tape seemed indispensable. It was
not until 1988 when the Nikon flash system took "a quantum leap
forward" with the introduction of the SB-24, opening the doors
to us common mortals -with cameras such as the N8008s or F4s-
into full fledged natural looking TTL auto flash. I've been happier
ever since.
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F100
with SB-28 on hot shoe.
Flash compensation: +0.7 on the picture
at left, -0.7 on the one at right |
There
are a total of seven possible flash TTL modes with a modern (SB-24
and later models) Nikon speedlight. They do depend on what camera
you do have, with what lens and the metering mode of your choice.
If you then add slow sync, they become fourteen different flash
modes. No wonder the confusion. But, forget about the names. You
use the camera and lens(es) you do have and go about selecting
the metering mode you think is best for the situation.
FOR
INTERIORS: TTL
ONLY.
As shown before, It is the best possible setting if all you
care is for your subjects, not the background.
If
you do care about the background, change your metering mode
to Matrix, set the Flash to TTL + Matrix as in the image
below of its LCD (liquid crystal display). You want more
background? Add slow sync. It will be better to use two
flashes.
Moving
subjects and you want them to leave a trail? Rear sync with
a slow shutter speed. |
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FOR
EXTERIORS:
TTL+MATRIX*
On the camera, choose the metering mode of your preference.
That is all. Really.
Flash
compensation? Find your own magical number for specific
situations.
In the type of conditions of the tests presented
here it was useless. Flash output at zero compensation was
perfect. |
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Just
to show that the same applies to built-in flashes, at right
an image I made of my daughter under harsh sun with her N80
and its fill flash, Matrix metering.
THE D QUESTION
This comes up frequently: "How important is the D chip in
lenses for TTL flash?" Well, you can judge yourself by the
images below -also with a N80- courtesy of our dear friend
Nikonian diver Dave Dosch. |
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50mm
1.8 AF Nikkor
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50mm
1.8D AF Nikkor
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As
I hope to have shown, there is no need to complicate flash photography
ourselves. Nikon has made it real easy for us to turn out well
lit images, without the "deer under the highlights"
look. If your images don't look good, turn into the photo lab
to find the culprit, not the Nikon flash system. Learn to
trust it.
A
final note on P mode: it saves on batteries and therefore allows
for faster recycling in successive shoots. I have shot complete
weddings (never less than 10 rolls) with a single set of batteries.
You want more DOF? Change lenses.
But
then, who am I to prevent you from going into A and M flash modes?
And, of course, into experimentation with repeating
flash and FP mode. Take notes.
Whatever
you choose, enjoy.
Have
a great time 
JRP
*
On more recent flashes like the SB-800 & SB-600, the setting
is TTL+BL
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