What is the best solution for a remote release for the D800? I need something that still allows on-camera flash. I upgraded from a D5100 and the infrared device I had does not work with the D800. I prefer wireless.

Try the SMDV RFN-4s - http://www.amazon.com/RFN-4s-Wireless-Shutter-Release-connection/dp/B005PCDSBQ - the receiver plugs into the camera's 10-pin so the hotshoe is still available for flash.

Any 10 pin remote release should work, Nikon has a rather expensive IR one the ML-3 (note the ML-L3 from your D5100). There are also a number or RF releases available for much lower prices on eBay. B&H also sells RF releases at intermediate prices. There is a ProMaster RF release available at many local camera stores.

The receivers for most, maybe all, of these devices have a foot that mounts in the hot shoe. Mounting the receiver in the hot shoe is just a convenience. There are no electrical connections in the receiver foot and the receivers are light enough to safely hang from the cord to the 10 pin socket, I frequently use my ProMaster RF release hanging from it's cord.

Gary in SE Michigan, USA. Co-organizer of the Southern Michigan Chapter
Nikonians membership - My most important photographic investment, after the camera.
D4, D800e, D300, D90, F6, FM3a (black), FM2n (chrome)
YashicaMat 124, Graflex Speed Graphic 4x5
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+1 for the SMDV RFN-4s. It's what I have. Some of the reviews said that it didn't lock down tight to the 10 pin connector. I can verify that - but it does lock down more than enough to work and it stays there. Solid unit with a pretty long range, if you believe the specs. I've never even approached that distance.

I primarily use it for Single Release and Mirror up shooting, and for long exposures. Really does the trick for a lot less than the Nikon unit. :-D

----------------------------------------

Lucky is only better than good BEFORE you press the shutter.

Equipment:
D800, MB-D12
14-24mm f/2.8G
24-70mm f/2.8G
28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G VR
50mm f/1.4G
70-200mm f/2.8G VRII
400mm f/2.8D (AF-I)
TC-20E III

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It locks on tight to my 10-pin - and turning the threaded collar is is much easier than with a Phottix or an MC30.

I use the cactus v5. I usually put mine in the hotshoe which would keep the flash from opening all the way. You could just let it hang and then you could use the flash.

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Hi Kevin,

If you are looking for a wired release the Nikon MC-30 and MC-36 are the best options.
The Nikon ML-3 IR wireless release is compatible with the D800.
If you want an RF wireless release, there are many options at a wide range of price points ( from cheap e-bay triggers to Pocket Wizards).
I use Pocket Wizards for their reliability and extremely long range.
Good Luck and Enjoy your Nikons!

Best Regards,
Marty

I have been using the 10 point wired MC remote release-forget the model number--that I've migrated from my F100>the D200>D700, finally to the D800 this fall. It seemed to work fine on the latest camera until a WV shoot in early Oct when I panicked to notice that it would not trigger the shutter no matter what I tried. Camera was fine while using it without out remote, using the 2 second delayed timer.

It was getting quickly dark so I couldn't more carefully check it out until we got back to the cabin and I discovered that the female, body mounted 10 receptor was actually pushed into the camera body and required a $125.00 repair through my local camera shop. Camera was never dropped and remote was not forced. I have no idea how it occurred.

Has anyone else experienced this? I am curious. It has me thinking I should have kept the D700 as it was bullet proof, or waited for the D600.
Joel

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Hi Joel,

Sorry to hear of your problem.
Gary Poole had the same problem with his D800E.
You can find the posts Here and Here .
$125.00 is about half the price that Nikon charged Gary for the same repair.
Good Luck and Enjoy your Nikons!

Best Regards,
Marty

Joel,

As Marty said I also dislodged the 10 pin socket of my D800. In my case I probably was the cause of the problem. The body shape of the D800 has less clearance on the left side of the socket than previous bodies. My 10 pin device pushed against the camera body and caused a sideways force on the socket. I believe this was the cause of my problem.

I explained this in post #39 in the first thread Marty listed. You can get directly to that item here.

If you are using a Nikon MC release, I can't see how it would be a problem.

Gary in SE Michigan, USA. Co-organizer of the Southern Michigan Chapter
Nikonians membership - My most important photographic investment, after the camera.
D4, D800e, D300, D90, F6, FM3a (black), FM2n (chrome)
YashicaMat 124, Graflex Speed Graphic 4x5
My Nikonians Gallery & Our Chapter Gallery